I'm pretty new to nissans; I've had two relatively standard S13s but most of my driving experience has been building and drifting road spec E36s. I have a written off S14a which I bought and I have an S14 rolling shell on the way, with the end goal of having a nice streetable S14 which will occasionally see track use (Lydden's been fucked off now so doubt I'll be on track more than 2/3 times a year). I do like running cars relatively low but there seems to be a load of issues that come up when you run S14s low and drive them hard regularly. As far as I know, things that will need sorting are the following: 1) CV joints breaking due to excess pitch angle 2) Exhaust scraping, premature turbo gasket failure / manifold cracking due to movement 3) Front arch loom rubbing through 4) Inner arch clearance There are bits and bobs of information floating around on all these issues but I wanted to see if we could compile a comprehensive thread of the best ways to address these issues on a relatively simple build. I don't want to tub arches / cut & resolder loom or do anything major like that and I just plan on running with the standard T28, a 3" turbo back system, some 17x9s on 235/40s and HSD DTs with basic lock mods like rack spacers and extended LCAs. Ideally I'd like to have arch on tyre up front and tucking most tyre on the back, which from reading other threads is low enough to bring the above issues up. Solutions which have been suggested so far are: 1) - Driveshaft spacers, which I've been told need to be welded onto cups ideally - Raising subframe, thus bringing the diff further in line with hubs (can you get polybush raisers? can only find solid and dont want to solid bush subframe for a road car). Potential change to handling? -Shortening rear lower arms; again, potential change to handling? - Getting driveshafts from an auto stagea (as far as I know they have subframes 20mm wider each side than S14s). Not sure on PCD or CV joint maximum angle specs - Heatwrapping exhaust around driveshaft area, something I plan to do regardless 2) - Custom exhaust / shortened hangars etc with flexi in downpipe and no flanges, ideally with raised subframe as well. I'd like to run one or two midboxes as I'm not particularly a fan of the sound of blacktop SRs on straight thru exhausts so clearance will be of a particular issue. 3) - Pulling loom through as much as possible, tucking up above arch lip and hammering arch lip up - Relocating fuse box into glovebox, not sure what that actually achieves though? - Cut and re-soldering loom to inside engine bay, would like to avoid if possible 4) - Hammering all lips etc in - Making new lockstops to prevent wheels from hitting stuff Would appreciate any tips on the above or hearing about what people here have tried. Loom and driveshafts are particular sticking points as they're both stuff I really don't want to have to screw about with once the car is built.
It's not the answer to your actual question. But.... Why bother going that low for no gain, it just creates problems you have to spend time and money fixing. Yes yes, I know, it looks baller and all that. But personally, I just can't be bothered fixing all the problems created by going silly low. Unless you have spent a lot of money on suspension, they will usually drive worse when that low anyway due to poor suspension and roll centre geometry. You can still get them pretty low imo without even rubbing the loom One thing I have learned over the years of modifing s body's.... If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Trying to find a solution to a problem that isn't there is daft.
All valid points I've had to deal with.. Some are more of a farce than others e.g. I wouldn't bother messing with drive shaft spacers. Sounds like you've got it all in check though mate.
Awesome list you've compiled One thing to add: get a good mini sledgehammer. You'll want to clearance the front floorpan for a 3" front pipe to sit above the chassis rails. Or get a split front pipe, but sledgehammer is cheaper. Consider going to a 2.5" - you're not running huge power and you'll enjoy the clearance more. Also running a 235/40 upfront with even mild lock mods will cause a few rubbing issues on inner tubs, again mini sledgehammer to the rescue Stagea drivehafts are a good shout, have heard bad things about the driveshaft spacers. Don't bother with shortening the rear LCA's unless you're poking hossibly with the 17x9's. You won't be able to raise the subframe on non-solid bushes as afaik they don't exist. You wouldn't want to either, as without bent camber and toe arms they will end up fouling on chassis rails and subframe mounts Look into going 10kg springs up front too. Keep the rears at 5/6kg for max street comfort Maybe look into the gktech front drop knuckle adaptor (sits in between the knuckle and ball joint) - they don't have the best rep but i've heard a few good reviews on them. Will help get the caster, LCA's and tie rods at better angles Pull the fender off and cable tie the loom as high as possible. Remember to refit the fender to test clearance as sometimes if you move it too high it won't allow the fender to sit right. Ensure your sump is higher than the crossmember too. If not, space up the engine mounts. Look into cutting down the caster arm brackets and reinforcing what's left with a cross brace and slam panel. Same with the rear subframe if you ever drop it out, a few extra braces will help it take any impacts like a champ
