https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTf1sFqghC8&feature=youtu.be Engine will not rev and bogs when you rev it from idle, unless you apply the revs slowly. No engine management light is on. No codes flash up. I think it's a fuel problem and the fuel pump is buggered. But fuel pressure looks good. Any ideas?
Is it the stock pipe with the flowmeter in it or an after market set up? They're pretty fussy about pipe diameter. If its stock then Id clean that out first, maybe replace it.
Is it a flap type AFM? You say the plug is underneath, was it turned upside down to hide the plug? Turning it upside down will mess up the signals as the flap will lift due to gravity and send a different airflow signal than what is actually occurring.
Thanks for the replies. The MAF is in the standard plastic pipe, just cut off the big standard airbox... I'm not sure about the flap type thing? It doesn't look to have any moving parts on it though. It was turned upside down to make it look a bit neater. It's worth noting that there are no codes coming up for any engine problems.
Engine is in a non standard chassis I'd tart checking the earth connections are all present, secure and providing metal/metal contact. You say no codes are flashing and the light is not on. When you do T1-E1 does the engine light pulse? If not the bulb is popped/not wired. If so you can rig on up at the diagnostic port. Pin W is the build signal wire IIRC.
Yeah, the light flashes a 42 actually ... Speed sensor ... I've got a manual gearbox on there. But it's nothing to do with the problem i have. I've not had much time lately, but plans were to check for vacuum leaks and i'll check the earths too.
Back when i was wiring up the engine, i remember having a problem that it wouldn't charge and there was an airflow meter problem. I worked out the problem was that the alternator wasn't getting 12v and the airflow wasn't getting 12v. I traced the problem back to this grey connector near the ECU The first problem was the charging problem which i just cut the wire off the connector and fed 12v to it from the fuse box... The second problem was the airflow. This time i bridged the connector in the plug and it was all ok. But now i'm wondering with the problems i'm having... Do the other wires also need jumping in this connector? There are 3 black/red wires running to the connector, 2 are bridged together (for the airflow 12v) should i also jump the other black/red wire? And also 2 red/blue running to the connector (there would have been 3, but i cut one off to supply 12v to the alternator) Again... Do these need joining together? Any info on them? Is this why the engine is bogging? I've looked on google but can't seem to find anything.
So there is an orange and a grey plug that should be terminated with a jumper. The orange plug connects every terminal together. I traced the wires that were missing from the grey plug and found the remaining black/red wire went to the diagnostic plug, so obviously wasn't causing my problem. The remaining red/blue wire goes to the auto gearbox so again, not causing my problem. Chop the useless thing off and join the wires together directly. 1 less thing to think about, although the problem remains the same. I will get a fuel pump next week and fit it and try it.
YO... sorry for the old thread revival, but I'm just facing a similar puzzling issue around wiring and thought it might be useful for other searching to have some reference point. The orange and grey plugs on my wiring harness are both connected to nothing. My car would start but run rich as hell and throw Check engine warning light for o2 sensor heat bank and also an issue with the MAF (Mass air flow seonsor). I also worked out that i needed to bridge at least one of the pins to power the MAF & o2 sensor. After doing the following my o2 & MAF error went away, but i was concerned that the other pins may need to be connected. {} In this diagam you can see refernece to the grey connector (Plug B42 (listed as connection "I") At first i didnt really understand what the pinout was telling me, but there were 4 pins of the plug listed with the letter "B" {} Having then done a bunch of google image searches i then found THIS, which made me realise that i was missing the "Termination caps" which essentially bridge the pins for you: {} Then a little more google work found the following inside views of those very same grey termination block, which matches the wiriding diagram plug pinout with the 4 pins being bridged! {}
So just a heads up to anyone finding this thread in a search trying to troubleshoot a 2jz charging/bogging/electrical problem..... I'll make a very long and tiresome story short and easy: check your crank balancer pulley. Mine had the rubber de-bonded from the metal pulley, it was BARELY perceptible and took me over 6 months to figure out. Maybe applicable, maybe not, but I hope this helps someone. Message me for an more info if you wish
