We welded the diff, installed new bushings to rear suspension and diff and started working on rear subframe reinforcement plates(dont have a picture of those) and the strut/subframe bracing. {} {} {}
And a bit of paint before the rollcage. On the way to the cage fabricator, my wallet hasn't been so full ever since {} {} {}
The windows are probably(and hopefully) going to be installed a bit better. Some photos from the icetrack and back to the garage for another teardown {} {} {} {} {} {}
Meanwhile the car was away we decided to paint the rest of the garage and put a laminate flooring to our designing(drinking) section {} {} {} {} {} {}
Some random shots. Like boys fitting the ice studded tires to the white e36 by hand...and engine front cover teardown for the turbo oil return {} {} {} {} {} {} {}
Had to relocate the turbo since the PPF exhaust manifold needs the engine to be tilted and we did not since we dont have the ZF diesel gearbox, stupid meAfter that we fabricated and heatwrapped the downpipe. I think i need to do some more heatshielding because m52 has a plastic cam cover {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {}
This is our current situation. I ordered a universal radiator by griffin and it should arrive quite soon, dont know about the fitment yet. after that I'll be ordering the intercooler and pipes. Roni has been busy sorting out the engine wiring harness. we're going to be using tatech ECU with the stock bmw sensors. after the first start on gasoline we will be switching to E85 Ethanol
Don't forget some engines in that range came with metal cam covers. My mate is building a turbo m52 and he bought one off ebay from a breakers. Exactly same as plastic one just metal.
I've been thinking about getting metal one from m50 engine since they are the same except the oilcap is on the back
Nice build thread! 1. Use the cam cover from M50 as it is alu/magnesium. 2. You can buy a coilpack cover in metal from MMW (Mannes metall workshop in Sweden). 3. Why not use a M50 engine instead of the M52? The early M52 doesn't have any iron cylinder sleeves as the M52TU/M54 does. All I'm saying is that the M52 might not be the best choice if you are aiming for more than 400hp.
Thx for the tips, I'm aware of the weakness of the m52 and our power goal is around 400hp with the m52. We have been thinking about building a proper m50 with the m52 or 54 crank to get it stroked 2.8/3.0 and internals more capable for boosting purposes
No worries! There was I guy in Sweden (Brandtab) that experimented with how much boost the M52 could handle for a couple of years ago and I think he pushed 400-450 for not a very long time before it broke. The m50 with other internals sounds like a good recipe. Many guys uses 2,8l / 3,0l crank with H-profile rods and standard pistons at 700-800 hp here.
Budget version for all that would be to take an m50b20 for base and use m51d25 (tds) crank, rods and pistons. m51d25 and m50b20 have the same cylinder bore, and also m51d25 internals are forged hence the power capability
But then you have to mill the crank for the chain pulley if I remember right plus that the M51 is 12V so I guess the pistons won't line up good with the 24 valves.
Might have to skim the tinyest amount from the pistons and/or use a thicker headgasket. I cant remember the exact details since ive transfered over to lexus life, but it def is doable and rather easily. Here in Estonia we're cheap fucks and this is by far the cheapest and easiest way to go for bigger horsepowers. Regular m50b20 can be had for 100 euros and another 50-80 for the m51 internals (of course all machining work, gaskets, bearing rings etc etc also but compared to m50b25 costing upwards of 600 to start its rather cost effective)
