hey folks , So i got my jzx100 swap near done in my e36 but i was having trouble with the MAF cutting the car out when i would plug it as it wasn't letting the car even start with it plugged in, so i eventually got a refurbished MAF off ebay now with it plugged in it'll either not start or when it does start it'll rev like 7k rpms with or without the new MAF plugged in IT's on stock ecu, stock MAF, j pipe delete i have put j pipe back to try and it's exactly the same i have wired the car myself with the help of my brother at times who's an electrician i've removed the obd2 as was going standalone ecu but things have changed.All wiring seems to check out as ecu diagram am using (frank triplecrown) one wire that isn't connected is the single water temp wire from the top radiator pipe is that wire just a signal for the gauge cluster it's a single white and green wire was gonna hook it to gauge but my cluster uses it's own temp adapter( acewell digi dash 7659) iscv and MAF all wired through main relay coil packs,injectors,igniter all wired with their own switched 12+ grounds all seem ok in ecu and chassis engines earthed at a loss now as to what to check next anyone on here still using MAF setup on jzx100 i could maybe send to for them to try it to see if it works on their car ? Any help much appreciated Thanks
you say you wired the TPS through main relay but TPS supply voltage is 5V not 12V. That might be your problem...
my bad i'll edit original post the tps isn't wired through the main relay it's getting power through the ecu via the middle pin black and yellow wire getting 5.004 volts sorry about that
No not able to atm as i removed the obd2 port from the loom when i was tidying the loom up will have to wire it back in or is there another way
i checked the voltage at the TPS and am getting 4.7 volts closed and goes to around 1.5 open is this correct or should it be the other way around ? can anyone confirm this please
you can still read the engine fault codes via the check engine light. you can wire the check engine light output from ECU to your dash gauges check engine light wiring and jump the pins TE1 to E1 to start the diagnostic procedure. Let me know if you require any help on that one. for TPS voltage, read this article. http://www.shoarmateam.nl/content/adjusting-the-jz-vvt-i-tps/
OK so according to the link you sent my TPS has backward readings which would explain the high revving when started ? so for the trouble codes could i say jump the pins TE1 and E1 and hook the oil light to the W pin in ECU to read the codes out ,my dash has no check engine light thanks for helping
24 - Intake Air Temp Sensor http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/articles/engine_2_24.htm since your's is a VVTi model, this will be a MAF issue. 47 - Sub Throttle Position Sensor Signal ( TPS )
Right checked TPS voltage again today seems spot on now I checked the right 2wires plugged in the old MAF and code 24 went away code 47 is still the car started but still ran at like 7k rpm Had a code 78 aswell it went away after I reset the ecu
Also checked the MAF according to the link you sent was getting 5.004 volts instead of 0.5-3.4 and resistance on MAF was 3.7 and went down to 0.9 when hot so assume that should be ok was the same on both MAFS
so does it rev up to 7K straight after the start up? it shouldn't be able to do it with a closed throttle valve. can you make sure there are no leaks post throttle body and throttle valve is mechanically shut and operating correctly. I'm assuming its not a DBW TB
Ya man as soon as it starts it revs up about 7k straight away. I’ve checked the throttle body and it’s operating fine. I’ll check for leaks tomorrow What is the sub throttle body position sensor I’ve cut and welded 2 sensors off the throttle body so it just the TPS on it now I read a thread before saying they for for traction control and aren’t needed as am not using it and it’s not a DBW tb Cheers
Something mechanical is wrong here. There is no way it should be able to rev to 7k with throttle plate closed. Post a pic of the engine bay. Is your idle air control valve still installed ?
do you mind uploading some general pics from the intake area. I reckon there's a post TB air leak somewhere... do you have PCV on your booster vac line?
I’ll upload pics surely The Iacv is still on I’ve a filter on the back of it I’ve no pcv on the 2 pipes are joined and I’ve a catch can on it’s a breathable one but no filter {}
