I've got those adjustable rear arms from DMAX on my car (came with the car) and due to going with a slightly wider rear tyre over the weekend at the back, I now need to run a good few degree's of negative camber in order for the tyres to not bash and eventually crack my rear fibreglass wings. I've shortened the two two blue arms on the hub (the stubby one that bends around the coilover and the straight 'traction bar'?) as much as they will go but doing so barely made a difference. Did I adjust the right things, or will I need to invest in different arms? I suppose the other alternative is to go back to running a 255 section tyre, rather than a 275.
Righto, first off have you rechecked the fitment after putting it on the ground? The wheel will naturally camber up as load increases, so what may look like not fitting at all when in the air, will fit when on the ground Next, the arms you describe (when looking at the hub with the wheel off): Stubby straight arm on the front at the top: traction arm Curved arm on the top that goes around the strut: camber arm Long straight arm on the rear at the bottom: toe arm Next up are the eccentric bolts on the inside/subframe mounting ends on the camber & toe arms (if they're still fitted). In your case you want to loosen the nut on each then rotate the bolt until the arms are pulled towards the centre of the car as much as possible. Important - make sure you loosen the nut and not the bolt. If you try loosen the bolt you'll spin the cam washer and have a bad time Now when adjusting camber you want to disconnect the toe arm, get the camber where you want then shorten the toe arm to suit then refit the toe arm Finally, if all that is said and done and you're still need more clearance you can do the following: - remove the camber arms and trim off whatever is bottoming first, be it the threaded adjusting portion in the middle or the sleeves on the inner & outer mounts it threads into. Check how much engagement you have on each mount before starting, and don't go under 10mm engagement, preferably 15mm - remove lower control arms (the big A looking arm) and get them shortened 10-15mm. It's a common thing in places like Australia where guys try to minimise axle CV strain while drifting when running 0 camber by bringing the hub closer to the diff - bow your over fenders slightly. it doesn't take much to just pull the bottom of your over fenders a touch closer together & remount those bottom points Tbh i wish Driftworks staff would put a video up about this kinda thing. In every video they profess to helping heaps of customers with wheel fitment, why not make a video about the common fixes...
Thank you ever so much Mr Ben Rice - that was a stellar response and it really helped me out so much. I've been working on cars for years and FML today i finally learn what those cam bolts do! I dialled it as best as could be done, I even removed the toe arm and shortened it etc, but the amount of adjustment just wasn't enough. Then....as I was about to cry, I noticed that the reason why one side JUSTT has enough clearance is because it's sitting about 1cm higher than the driver side. FML such a 'simple' fix. I'll have a poke around for my C-spanners and then adjust the height. Thank you once again man. Really helpful response.
you shouldnt need C-spanners unless your adjusting the spring pre-load. lots of people make this mistake. c-spanners are not for adjusting ride height. try winding in the bottom coilover mount in. unless its already in right at the bottom..
But the lock tab is holding some tension downwards against the base of the strut and my little arms/hands won't be strong enough to simply grab the threads and turn them anti-clockwise to extend the length of the unit.
