Home brew 2JZ RX7 swap - PIC HEAVY!

Thread in 'Project Cars and Builds Threads' started by rx7ali, Mar 17, 2017.

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  1. rx7ali

    rx7ali Member

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    Well may as well start a new thread as all the images have vanished off my last one :euge:

    Follow me instagram @rx7ali for regular picture updates!

    Currently doing my 2jzgte engine conversion in my rx7 as the car has been engineless for around 3/4 years now.

    The conversion will be using an Aristo 2JZ-GTE running stock turbo's and factory auto ECU. I am running a 350z gearbox (CD008) with a collins motorsport adapter plate, flywheel and paddle clutch.

    Engine was supplied by JDM Distro who managed to source me a low milage engine complete with loom and ECU. They compression tested for me before sending out, and honestly can't rate these guys enough for service, top blokes to deal with over the phone and email.

    IMG_8363_zpse7mhrizw.

    IMG_8459_zps2cbdmygy.


    IMG_8458_zps8q8yan7f.

    Now the Aristo 2JZ is a front sump engine which is a pain for the steering rack positioning so that needed swapping out. Luckily I managed to find somone with a spare Supra 2JZ GE engine (rear sump) who needed a front sump (for an S13) so we met up to do a swap over.

    C3C96836-96A9-4CCB-A662-CC2348E60A9C_zpsqptdxnxo.


    IMG_8527_zpspkhr6zza.

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    rx7-garage-blue.
     
    #1 rx7ali, Mar 17, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2017
  2. rx7ali

    rx7ali Member

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    So even though I'm keeping the twins and all the OEM manifolds and bits, for the time being it's ALOT easier to strip it all off so i can do teh fabrication to mount the engine.

    Removing the twin turbo's gave me horrible flash backs of removing the twins from the 13b many years ago. So glad i didnt have to remove these while the engine was inside of a bag! Pain in the ASS!!

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    Any while the manifold is off it's a chance to take a look inside.. apex seals look a bit strange?!

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  3. rx7ali

    rx7ali Member

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    engine mounting....

    Mandrel bent CDS steel tubing and notched tubes for cross members. I had debated using a "pipe bender" and making these myself, but having done a couple of test runs i thought better of it! These were supplied by tube-bender.co.uk,

    IMG_8750_zpsbmrcmvwt.

    Fits perfectly around the sump

    IMG_8748_zpsxvdmoagb.


    As well as a custom subframe, I'm also ditching the OEM engine mounts in favour of an ALMOST solid mound. I'm using 3/4" rose joints which will be bolted to the sub frame cross members.

    IMG_8080_zpsx5o0i0tm.

    IMG_8084_zps1zuihein.

    IMG_8089_zpsctokp1w8.

    Here's the mock up of the mounting tabs which the rose joints will be bolted to:

    IMG_8827_zpsv2jk1ehs.

    IMG_8816_zpsthmwur63.

    IMG_8829_zps0hecjdfi.

    more soon...
     
  4. rx7ali

    rx7ali Member

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    Got a little more garage time and using my new mini bench drill and some hole saw bits i cut out the engine mount tabs:

    As you can see, a LARGE amount of cutting oil was used :D

    IMG_8855_zpsgbjpur7b.

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    IMG_8861_zpsewu4rcaq.



    This is the end result, they need a tidy up final couple of cuts and a side up to finish off but you get the general idea.


    IMG_8862_zpsgs5ibtoi.

    Next on the shopping list is a chop saw which i need for cutting the ends short for the tubular subframe and also for the the 4mm wall tube which will go between the rose joints and the engine block for the mounts.
     
  5. Sturge

    Sturge Active Member

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    Looking good! Always great seeing picture heavy build threads!
     
  6. rx7ali

    rx7ali Member

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    Some minor progress:

    After working out where where the new engine mounts could line up i made one of the new base plates from 4mm steel, should be tough enough.

    IMG_8885_zps9qouslbp.

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    Next on the agenda was cutting the subframe apart ready for the test fit and fab work. I quickly made a note of the steering rack position so i can mount as close to the original position as possible, or at least compensate later on with alternative track rod ends.

    IMG_8907_zpskhsvzo6u.

    AND THEN I CUT... no going back now!

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    Getting the angle grinder in to the right position was actually a complede SOD withe arms in place, so i had to go old school with a hack saw at the end :rolleyes:

    IMG_8923_zpss1x02ni6.


    IMG_8926_zps5bxocamf.

    BOOM!

    IMG_8929_zpsze8njc5z.

    Next jobs are to assemble the collins motorsport clutch kit and Z33 gearbox and then i can do a test run of fitting. It'll be the first time i get to see if the gearbox actually fits within the transmission tunnel and where exactly the shifter ends up. I'm expecting to need a "mid mount" shifter to bring it forward by 20-30cm.

    IMG_8884_zpsyiuslwpp.

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  7. rx7ali

    rx7ali Member

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    Engine is roughly in position where I'll be doing the subframe welding and even with my stupid bonnet scoop still in place... I can close the hood! GREAT SUCESS!

    1324dfd733535e58dba70264e6d05c9b70346204d2cacef65abef9c702746d1c.

    In other news the gearbox fits comfortably within the transmition tunnel and as predicted the shifter needs modification.


    AD204B68-6189-41CE-B0A0-CAA67B21A4A7_zpslbfm3kz0.


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    [​IMG]

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  8. rx7ali

    rx7ali Member

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    Minor update, I've managed to cut out the end plates for the subframe from 3mm steel sheet after making some cardboard templates.

    With a bit of a grind down of the remaining subframe supports they seem to go on flush more or less. So now I'm into tacking them in place ready for the tubular mid section to come in.

    F5251EA5-EE8C-4FC5-BAA9-9799345096B2_zpsnx53j4wm.
    6AE311D6-899A-483D-A634-F5736979A356_zpssbcjwezq.
    45E02D54-4412-422E-9F87-7007B0F9D4B2_zpsbdmgkt33.
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    DFB4AAF3-4835-4964-AA8C-5911D01A1CA6_zpswfil1ck2.


    I also had a little pacetice run at the welding using the dead half o of the subframe.... obviously practice makes perfect so I'll be doing a few more practice runs haha
    3AA1D5E8-736C-4E2C-B6AB-34899CF12887_zpsxj3okljx.
     
  9. rx7ali

    rx7ali Member

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    More , I now have a tacked together subframe!

    Just need to cut the two lengths of 4mm wall tube that go between the rose joints and the engine mount plates, tack those together and then its welding time to attempt to weld it well enough to survive abuse :-/

    6E131998-C8F2-4B35-B2AD-F90E891959B4_zpshvpnwrmx.

    65F1BBC3-39F2-46AD-A002-D5DA7A6D4A97_zpsx3ijmvrg.

    83523401-B53C-4EF8-AF8C-97B4D221AAA9_zps8fa1f7vc.


    96928382-42AF-4443-83D4-F4208FE7E6B0_zpsxgrfqzzl.

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    #9 rx7ali, Apr 6, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2017
  10. rx7ali

    rx7ali Member

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    So having got REALLY frustrated with my old SUPERMIG jamming and not feeding properly with the old torch i've ordered myself a Euro MIG conversion kitt. Swapping out the liner seemed to make sod all difference, so hopefully just ditching the whole Torch will help when it comes to doing the real welds, possibly next week when it arrives.

    EuroTorchKit.
     
  11. rx7ali

    rx7ali Member

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    Sooooo... had a slight issue with the fabrication. I had placed teh engine in teh desired location and then spot welded the new subframe around the sump. All good... until i realised i could no longer remove the engine from the bay without dropping the subframe off the car entire. FML!

    Needless to say i had to chop out the subframe and start again with positioning, this time an inch further forward and hey presto the engine (with gearbox attached) can be hoisted in and out of the bay! :thumbsup:



    82932C21-2E0C-4D7E-B19A-435DBB7E4B55_zpsc9howk1e.

    CBC2AAC4-2A0B-4852-9550-817427A96F0E_zpsmzainywl.

    The sad news however is that in attempting to remove the engine i had to cut part of the bay (the lip above the flywheel) and had as such destroyed the lovely fresh blue paint job, so that will need to be redone at some point :mad:

    34143C59-0C9E-41DB-8CE3-ED955EFA866C_zpsaskjq6tv.

    The bolts i had with my collins adapter plate were also causing me some grief as the heads were too large meaning i ended up with a 3mm gap between the bell housing and the adapter plate.

    Luckily the alan heads had sufficient spare depth that i could shave these down to rectify the issue.

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    • Informative Informative x 1
  12. rx7ali

    rx7ali Member

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    Now that the engine was in place (and more importantly removable) i set about making the 4mm wall engine mounts which connect between the engine block (3mm plate) and the subframe (3/4" rose joints)

    These were a complete fucker to make with teh correct angle I've no chop saw, and no easy way of measuring the angle. Here's my first abandoned attempt:

    MIND THE GAP

    6ABFB1F0-F276-40DC-B00B-B6975B9AB86C_zpstliyg52s.

    E81CEDBD-7202-409C-9DFC-774AF160EEE7_zpsb96j97lc.

    So after experimenting with cardboard and paper as a template i eventually got something flush enough to work with:

    00250639-5362-4704-8726-9EE90663FAF3_zpsvj7910is.

    21FCD05E-57E2-47C2-833B-233CAA4AC290_zpsraemihng.

    913DDAAF-E96C-4F27-B2B2-92557B233487_zpsrmq0xmsq.

    Cutting from a single length of CDS tube meant that the one template served to also make up the other side perfectly with a slightly altered length:

    FE596CD8-53D0-4EC3-922D-1453EAE7024E_zps8b5ogs1c.

    So i've just got to to a few final welds and that's the engine mounted, boom! Next onto the gearbox mount which means i need to get the car safely onto axle stands so i can get under there :rolleyes:
     
  13. rx7ali

    rx7ali Member

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    Well there's plenty more need for the cardboard now, as I've decided to do the steering rack next and that's completely custom :-/

    I finished welding the engine mounts, not the cleanest of welds but I'm still learning :-) the other side is worse, need an expert clean up with and angle grinder haha

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    I've offered the steering rack up to the subframe to roughly work out where is CAN fit in relation tonyhebsubframe and block, then quickly checked against my measurements I made of the old location. From a front2back placement perspective it's going to be pretty close to stock. However from a height, ( which is what I believe affects bump steer? ), I haven't quite worked out the difference just yet, but there's enough room to be flexible should I need to adjust.

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    #13 rx7ali, Apr 22, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2017
  14. rx7ali

    rx7ali Member

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    So this is what I need to re-create at a new angle on the custom subframe:

    7791380C-2489-45C4-A641-3B036DA08E91_zpsfsc6t32b.

    Scribbles on cardboard followed by scorning out the steel sheet ready the be cut up.

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  15. rx7ali

    rx7ali Member

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    I had a go at knocking the steering rack brackets today, tacked it together and then offered it up to the subframe and tackband it seems to fit well :-)


    B949C378-44EE-4C85-9192-E8CAF50F6E4E_zpsadxjdpcf.

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    #15 rx7ali, Apr 26, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2017
  16. rx7ali

    rx7ali Member

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    Soooo...

    second time around managed to get a nicer finish to the bracket

    score with a hacksaw to make the bends cleaner:

    53DB1239-0810-41C3-ADA7-278D28A01015_zpszpnxa0mx.

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    3B7701D7-6428-4D60-B0D5-ABFA85388783_zpsszoy0u5d.

    After bolting the DIY brackets to the rack and fumbling around to find the centre line i got really F'ed off because the rack was fouling the subframe at the pinion side and there was seeming no angle that i could place it at.

    2809D64D-3193-4B11-9587-773E4D75F97D_zpsibenkv7i.

    So i then went through modifying the rack mounts 3/4 times and eventually found the right mixture of length and angle for the brackets to give a reasonable amount of clearance :thumbsup:


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    Next job is the gearbox mount
     
  17. Wide body

    Wide body New Member

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    Some nice work going on there.
    It will be worth it knowing you've done it yourself.
     
  18. rx7ali

    rx7ali Member

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    cheers dude, yep.. if it works great or just all falls out the engine bay i'll only have myself to thank :rolleyes:
     
  19. Wide body

    Wide body New Member

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    Ha ha. I very much doubt that will happen
    Are those rosejoints and inserts from McGill Motorsport? If so I've used plenty over the years and they are top notch.
     
  20. rx7ali

    rx7ali Member

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    Yep, bought from McGill 3/4" ROD END Right Hand Male Rose Joint Ultra High Performance/Quality BRISCA F1

    Pretty sure there were a higher spec version to be had, but these seem proper heavy duty so will do for the time being. Debating getting some dust covers and packing with grease to prolong the life of them.

    RERS.
     

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