Blue S15 boyo

Thread in 'Project Cars and Builds Threads' started by Chicken nugget, Jan 3, 2019.

  1. Chicken nugget

    Chicken nugget New Member

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    So.... it’s 2015, Iv just turned 21 Iv got a bright yellow mk3 seat Ibiza cupra. All my older friends have turbo jap cars, Impreza sti’s, r34 skyline, fd rx7 etc, there all faster and cooler than me and I want abit of the action. Iv got some savings so I go on eBay and start looking. I really wanted a evo or a spec R s15 Silvia. However I couldn’t insure them. This was when I found a 1999 auto spec S Silvia that had been turbod and had a manual 5 speed conversion, it had front and rear over fenders, supermade bumpers and skirts, and it was slammed on staggered 10.5/12j rota gtrd’s with stretched tires!
    Of course I bought it!,,

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    The previous owner of this car is on this forum orb38 here’s the link for the sale add from 4 years ago. https://www.driftworks.com/forum/threads/supermade-s15-low-and-wide.230158/

    Having no rear wheel drive driving experience whatsoever as expected I crashed it into a hedgeback within two nights I blamed the stretched tires and scene camber at the time but really I was to blame trying to drive past my capability’s.

    The damage..
    Front bumper broke in half
    Scratches down the wings doors and skirts
    Splitter, skirt extensions and diffuser broke
    12j rota cracked
    bent lower arm and toe arm

    So new vertex style front bumper ordered, rota 9.5j grid D’s, drift works rear camber and toe arms and a lower arm from a s14, I also raised it abit so I could take take some camber out and gain some comfort as it was rock hard and there’s good country roads near me. (To crash on)

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    Car back on the road arguably not as cool as it was but whatever, loving life attending car shows n meets in my silva

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    Change of circumstances forced me to park the car up for a year where it sat doing nothing, I then decided I was goin to sell it but found concerning rust in the engine bay.. I’d always over looked this as I was distracted by the shiny exterior . After much thought I decided I’m going to keep it and sort the rust out paint the bay get it back on the road again. A nice lil project for me as the underside of the car was fine it was just engine bay. (Should only take a few weekends).

    began pulling the engine and gearbox out on the drive.

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    Pictures of the rust issue both sides of suspension strut turrets and down both sides of the seams. This side being much worse than the other.

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    Battery tray looking nasty
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    It’s mud not poo. Rust again all along the sides of the bay.
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    As you can see it’s not very nice

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    I’d just like to clarify now I’m no welder/fabricator/mechanic I’m just bodging as I go
     
  2. Shire Motorsport

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    Get and tub it pal I own a fabrication motorsport garage and it's easier than it looks it looks worse than it is be interesting to see where this project goes
     
  3. Chicken nugget

    Chicken nugget New Member

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    I was considering tubing it and a few people have suggested doing it, Iv already started trying to put it back to how it was originally made my welding isn't the best but it’s slowely improving. The lad I share my unit only does welding repairs to cars and he says the nissan tin is the hardest stuff he’s ever welded I don’t particualy need tubs for the the wheel clearance as it’s not a drift car, Iv got a e36 for drifting, would I have to relocate the fuse box and things if I tubbed it too wouldn’t I?
     
  4. Shire Motorsport

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    Not always you don't have to relocate the fuse box's you can set away with tucking them behind the headlights but most of the time it is the best idea as it gets rid of a lot of the wiring by the chassis legs and there common as muc to run through on the wheels I would definitely relocate the battery to the boot not only will it make your life easier with the welding it also makes a while lot of room for any engine related repairs
     
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  5. BenRice

    BenRice Well-Known Member

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    How does reducing engine bay space with unnecessary tubs make engine related repairs easier?

    The worst bit of that rot is on the rear of the inner arches, the front of the arches aren't that bad. A couple of hours with a wire wheel, some patch panels, some rust inhibitor, primer, paint and undersealing and a novice would be done in a day, maybe a weekend if you wanted to go nuts with the undersealing
     
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  6. Shire Motorsport

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    I didn't day anything about the fund making it easier I said about the battery for that but the I've never had trouble working on sr's in a chassis with guns as long as there built right plus if he wants to get more lock later on down the line it would be easier to do it now
     
  7. BenRice

    BenRice Well-Known Member

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    True, i misread what you said about the battery. Sorry about that

    But you don't need tubs if you go for modified knuckles, even if you slam it on it's dick as well. They're only really needed if you do that AND go bigger than a 9" wide wheel or bigger than a 225 tyre
     
  8. Shire Motorsport

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    That’s why I put about tubs as he’s already running a 9.5j so unless he starts going down some major extended lower arm he’s gunna get some rubbing issues if he plans on drifting her
     
  9. Chicken nugget

    Chicken nugget New Member

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    I don’t plan on drifting it that’s why I’m not leaning towards the tubs.. it’s more of just a fast road car. Will only drift wide junctions and roundabouts . Iv got a tatty e36 for driftdays that will help keep this clean
     
  10. Chicken nugget

    Chicken nugget New Member

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    So.... All welding now done, on the lift completely stripped underneath. Not a great deal of pics but il post what IV got and try explain what IV done. Ok im no welder by any means but i like to learn and do things my self, rather than have pay someone and learn nothing. Now i have a share in a workshop so work is much easier

    Chopped out rusty areas in the bay.
    Behind ns strut tower.
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    Battery tray
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    Front seam on NS strut tower rotten between seams.
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    Re constructed each panel so to meet original factory look,
    Lower skin of the arch tub.
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    Making the upper skin. Holes drilled So i can plug weld where factory spot welds would be.
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    Welded in place plugged and finished with a flapper wheel to hide my ugly welds, looks factory enough for me.
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    Battery traysorted
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    No pics but found the rear os corner was rotten behind the bumper, cut this out and re made same as factory, by this point my welding had improved but no pics, also a patch at the back of the os sill was required.

    Sanded down the engine bay cleaning up any other scabby bits with a Dremel and wire cups, also used a angle grinder with copper wire wheels,
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    Used jenolite rust convertor and then etch primed to protect it until I come back to the engine bay in the future.
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    So now IV basically got a bear shell with interior on the two poster, I removed the rear subframe, suspension, hubs, all brake lines and fuel lines, fuel tank, front subframe, all arms, steering rack you name it all off. Stripped the bottom from any existing underseal, seam sealer, old paint scabby bits or anything nasty, with a grinder and wire wheel, found no more nasties. Eventually I have a clean shell.

    Below photo before I used the wire wheel and exposed more rust, you can see the rotten rear corner. It literaly fell apart as soon as the grinder went near it.
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    From the front
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    Bit of a jump but I have a lack of photos.. rust convertor applied, primed, and seam sealed now starting to look decent
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    Upol Gravitex underseal applied under and to both front and rear arches.
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    I was advised to paint over the gravitex underseal for the ultimate protection as it is porous and could hold water, since I plan on painting the engine bay in 2k paint with a gravity fed gun I thought id practice under the car first. So it went 2k gloss black underneath.
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    The photos do not do it justice at all. When you see it in person it's so glossy underneath I was literaly wiping greasy finger marks off where people had been touching it the first few days after painting hahah. Looks like I missed abit on spare wheel well but it's a reflection
     
    #10 Chicken nugget, Jun 8, 2019
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2019
  11. Chicken nugget

    Chicken nugget New Member

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    I got a spec R standard helical Limmited slip differential to replace the spec S auto open diff. I believe the auto diff has a ratio of 3.9 which will stay the same as I'm keeping the crown wheel and pinion, I won't be doing drift days in This car just spirited road driving and maybe see how the odd track day goes so a aftermarket 1.5 or 2 way would be unnecessary for me.

    Old open diff IMG_20190531_221431.

    Removed old diff and swapped crown wheel over to the helical diff, torqed to spec and used thread lock.
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    Punched side seals out put new seals in casing, no more leaky bois. IMG_20190608_202438.

    Diff in casing, Bearing caps tourqued to spec, you can see the helical gears on this picture
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    Cleaned the casing and painted with black hammerite. Bolted the cover back on used rtv red stuff either side of the old gasket, output shafts back in and filled with 1.4L of 80-90 oil. Looks 100 times better now I had to shave down one of the output shafts to allow it to sit in the correct position. IMG_20190614_211910.
    I have super pro pollybushes for both front and rear of the diff too
     
    #11 Chicken nugget, Jun 15, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2019
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  12. Chicken nugget

    Chicken nugget New Member

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    Fuel lines, brake lines, fuel tank back in with freshly painted tank straps and brake pipe brackets. IMG_20190615_171958.

    Rear subframe back from the powder coaters with new driftworks subframe to chassis bushes and super pro diff bushings.
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    Subframe, diff ,lower arms that were also powder coated and treated to super pro bushes n new ball joints fitted up to the car.
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    Looking tidy underneath now. Screenshot_20190618_085459.

    Front subframe, coilovers brakes steering rack etc all put back in, I haven't done anything with the front end as it wasn't in as poor condition as the rear and I want the car on the road this year, I can always re do the front end in winter.
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    With the rear end fully assembled and wheels back on it looks like a car again after just being a object on the lift for so long
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  13. Simon998

    Simon998 New Member

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    Great progress man. Good job tackling it all yourself too.

    Do you still have the XSI in the first pictures? What's happening with it?
     
  14. Chicken nugget

    Chicken nugget New Member

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    Hi mate thanks IV been buisy as of late, as for the XSI I'm selling it to a close friend who wants to restore it. I did abit of welding on it a few years ago but really it needs completely going over to keep it going for years to come
     
  15. Chicken nugget

    Chicken nugget New Member

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    Onto the engine bay. Made a make shift paint booth. IMG_20190620_221645.

    Bit of body filler to smooth out welding imperfections and sanded down smooth,
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    So ontop of the existing rust convertor and etch primer using a gravity fed gun and the workshop compressor I put down 3 coats of 2k filler primer, this took two attempts as I mixed too much hardner and had my air pressure too low the first time round resulting in a poor finish almost like stone chip.. sand it down and start again. the seccond try was much better still required a few hours wet sanding it down, i only really concerntrated on areas that will be seen once everything's back in the engine bay.

    Then 2k base coat went on. I went with anthricite to match the rear subframe and my wheels, i also painted the coil pack cover too. Super happy with the results. This paint didn't require a lacqure to make it shine this was the result after 24 hours drying. Looks even better in person!!
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    Now starting to put bits back in the engine bay. Fuse box/loom/clutch cylinder/wiper motor etc..

    Got hold of a standard rear bumper and a rare impul s15 rear bumper extension looks awesome on I can only find one other on Google images too!!! also mocked up some 3" exhaust pipe IMG_20190630_182940.
     
    #15 Chicken nugget, Jun 30, 2019
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2019
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  16. Chicken nugget

    Chicken nugget New Member

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    When I bought the car I was told the engine was a DE+T so a turbod n/a engine. Been looking into it lately and it's got the turbo throttle body, turbo cam cover, oil return looks factory, turbo ECU turbo coils, so I wasn't too convinced, considering you can bolt all them bits on I thought I'm going to have to open it up and see if it's got flat De pistons or dished det ones.

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    Cover off and cams now out.

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    Head off and hey presto it's got dished pistons! That's a nice supprise for once, usually my luck is the other way round, one odd thing I noticed mind is that the cosworth head gasket blocks a few of the water jackets, any one have any idea what that's all about??
     
  17. Chicken nugget

    Chicken nugget New Member

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    leaky dirty engine.
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    As the engine looked like it was leaking from every possible place, I took the sump and upper sump off aswell as the oil pump front casing to re do the gaskets. Also spotted the under piston oil squirters to add more confirmation that it's a DET motor not a DE+T as I always thought.

    The Internet said I could re use the cosworth head gasket so IV done so see how it goes... Engine built back up and looking cleaner. IMG_20190803_125316.

    New exeedy racing clutch put on. Also a nismo RS521 lightweight flywheel boi IMG_20190803_174632.
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    All bolted up ready to go in the car threadl on the flywheel bolts of course
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    Going in very carefully....
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    Engine is now in and the gearbox is on. (Rather difficult on your own, next is to give it fuel, electricity ,oil water, and try start it.... Wish me luck:dw:
     
  18. Minimoke

    Minimoke Member

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    Kwoar you've put some hours into this eh. Is gonna be a sweet motor in the end though! Looking forward to seeing it running.
     
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  19. Chicken nugget

    Chicken nugget New Member

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    Yeahh many of nights have gone into it, IV booked it In For paint start of next month so will be running in no time! Also have a nurburgring trip booked in 2 months time so really looking forward to that
    :thumbs:
     
  20. Chicken nugget

    Chicken nugget New Member

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    So engine in, gearbox in new gearbox rear seal. And quick shift. all bits and bobs hook
    ed back up, power fuel oil and water, start it up and tap tap tap. Check the timing and it's out a tooth, cams out and adjusted correctly. Upon tightening cam bracket bolts. Cam cap bolts whatever you wanna call them one snaps. Great IMG_20190811_173849.

    Snapped off deep in the head. IMG_20190811_173945. so head back off, and stripped then sent to engine specialist. IMG_20190811_184107.
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    IV now ordered ARP head studs and a new 1.1 87mm cosworth head gasket to rebuilt this time as I got stick for attempting to reuse the old bolts and gasket. Probably a blessing in disguise really.
     

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