CA18DET Idle problem.

Thread in 'Technical Questions' started by Doonits, Oct 18, 2014.

  1. Doonits

    Doonits Member

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    Hello,

    I have a problem with my CA18DET, I recently swapped a 2860RS in after my stock T25 blew, it was replaced and fabricated ( piping all done new etc etc. ) by a professional company in my country.

    Well the problem is that under 1500 RPM the car is so unstable, the RPMs drop a lot ( by like 300-500 ) and there's white smoke coming out the back, but when the car is warm there's no smoke - the RPMs drop still though. They go smoothly up above 1500, which is weird.
     
  2. Retro - Slide

    Retro - Slide Member

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    It could be an ECU issue, like not ready for the power of the new turbo, Or it could be a mechanical issue. Like camshaft timing or a boost leak? Or you are going to need to replace your exhaust cam. That key turns the CAS and tells the engine when to fire? Failing Ignition amplifier or a failing coil Is another problem. These are some of the common issues with erotic idling.
     
    #2 Retro - Slide, Oct 18, 2014
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2014
  3. Doonits

    Doonits Member

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    Can't be a boost leak. It does seem like a failing coil since it looks like it's running on 3 plugs, mostly when I hit boost. I got told so by my brother also when I drove by.
     
  4. Doonits

    Doonits Member

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    Any suggestions?
     
  5. Retro - Slide

    Retro - Slide Member

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    So it must have been overheating, condensation, acid corrosion or a case leak. which could mean one of the coils is or was arcing.
    I say the easiest way of doing it is just replacing the coils.
    by the way! if your coolant temp sensor and knock sensor are gone then you will be experiencing amoung other things, retarded timing and richer fuel mixtures. Both of which wouldn't be any good
     
    #5 Retro - Slide, Oct 18, 2014
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2014
  6. Retro - Slide

    Retro - Slide Member

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  7. Doonits

    Doonits Member

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    You reckon it's the coil packs?
     
  8. Retro - Slide

    Retro - Slide Member

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    Could be. Or a turbo seal for the white smoke. it could just be something to do with timing...
     
  9. Retro - Slide

    Retro - Slide Member

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    Try cleaning the all these, my friend had a problem with his and this fixed it. If you find any broken stuff replace it and try again?
    AFM
    Coil leads
    coil packs
    all injector connectors
    air regulator connector
    a.a.c connector
    coolant temp sensor connector
    advance the ignition timing
    adjusted idle screw
    adjusted TPS
     
  10. Doonits

    Doonits Member

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    I'm worried about the white smoke more than the idle. It can't be a turbo seal as all the seals were bought new and fitted by professionals along with the BRAND NEW 2860RS.


    Thanks for the heads up on the cleaning though, I'll try those.
     
  11. Retro - Slide

    Retro - Slide Member

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    Yeah that should work or if your coolant temp sensor and knock sensor are gone then you will be experiencing amoung other things, retarded timing and richer fuel mixtures. Both of which wouldn't be any good
     
  12. Doonits

    Doonits Member

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    But I do have very rich fuel mixtures, I got told by the mechanics too who replaced my turbo :O
     
  13. Retro - Slide

    Retro - Slide Member

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    Could just be the engine not being prepared for it. I say cleaning the things I told you and see if that works? :)
     
  14. Doonits

    Doonits Member

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    It is prepared specially, the pressure of the boost was taken down to 0.9 BAR, fuel pressure was changed and so on.

    So, an update - went drifting for the first time today. It feels okay, little low on power. I started the car up for the first time today, it was running smooth at 1200 and slowly climbed to 1500 as should. Then I drive the car to the starting line and then the RPMs started dropping by probably about 50-80? Very low. Later on when the engine was warm, it was dropping from 800 to 300 almost looking like it was going to stall. I'll upload a video how it sounds soon, but not with the massive RPM drops, just the small 50-80 ones.
     
  15. Retro - Slide

    Retro - Slide Member

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    That's really not right, I think that might be an even bigger problem then I thought! :( We shall see when you upload the video...
     
  16. Doonits

    Doonits Member

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    :/ Sound didn't get recorded on the phone.

    Shall I upload the video just showing you how the RPMs drop? Since it's quite useless, you can hear the problem, the RPM gauge shows basically no movement. It sounds like the car stops for a second and then goes on.
     
    #16 Doonits, Oct 19, 2014
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2014
  17. Doonits

    Doonits Member

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    I just realised something - could it be my ECU? It's a stage 2 chip ( definitely not for 2860RS ) and I'm running the stock AFM. Should I be using Z32? What should I do about the ECU if that's the case?
     
  18. Retro - Slide

    Retro - Slide Member

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    Ah! Yes you should be running a Z32 AFM. The standard AFM isn't designed to take in as much air. and the bigger turbo will need much more air! Putting a Z32 AFM on could cure your problem. Using a chip for a different turbo shouldn't effect it that much, just the chip is designed for the response and workings of the other turbo.
     
  19. Doonits

    Doonits Member

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    Got a question again now - if I buy the Z32 AFM, are you sure it will work with my chip? What can go wrong with using it?
     
  20. Retro - Slide

    Retro - Slide Member

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    Yes the Z32 AFM will work with any chip.
     

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