Z32 maf won't work on any chip. Has to be the right map. The signal from the Z32 is different from the normal AFM. Its not the size of the AFM anyway. Is it definitely not a boost/vac leak? It sounds like one. Have you done a boost leak test. Properly, by pressurising it and going round with spray soap etc. Also also, what do you mean the fuel pressure has been changed, do you mean the fuel pump has been upgraded? :-)
I haven't tested any leaks yet, will do. ( car feels quite slow too now for some reason, but then again they're a professional shop they can't be that bad idiots ) The car was running on some different fuel pump or something which caused the fuel pressure to be off, there were two in the car, aftermarket one was attached but they placed it back on the stock one now. By the way - how do I find out what chip my car has? I bought it with this chipped ECU already inside.
Take the ecu out. Take the covers off. And look. Hopefully the chip has stage 2 written on it and the chip makers name or initials. And hopefully it is in a chip holder that you can prise it in and out of if you need to upgrade. If its soldered in and brown rather than black, with a silver label its a standard chip. its the long chip in the corner about 28 or 30 pins i think. - - - Updated - - - Take the ecu out. Take the covers off. And look. Hopefully the chip has stage 2 written on it and the chip makers name or initials. And hopefully it is in a chip holder that you can prise it in and out of if you need to upgrade. If its soldered in and brown rather than black, with a silver label its a standard chip. its the long chip in the corner about 28 or 30 pins i think.
Probably worth reading the fault codes on the ecu before you disconnect it and wipe them though, might find a pointer to your problem.
Oh, damn, silly me. Didn't even think about the fault codes I'll get to go to my car on Wednesday, I'll update the thread!
Update again - didn't get to run over the ECU fault codes or anything else, was too busy today fixing other things that needed taking care of. I got the video uploaded, look from 0:15, from there on you can see what I'm talking about. This is when the car is completely cold, just started up. If it's warm it drops by 300 exactly like that.
I'm a little worried Can't be a boost leak really because the mechanics did the whole piping brand new with new connectors and everything.
I would say taking it back to the guys who did install the turbo and did all the fabrication... What company did do the install?
The weird part is that over 2000 RPM it's VERY SMOOTH. Under that it pops and misfires and drops in RPMs quite a lot, it sounds ridiculous, like a broken tractor. But after 2000 RPM it's smooth. Not sure, couldn't be a leak. It's the worst when driving.
Sounds strange. Post something on the CA18DET Preservation Society thread. See what reply's you would get on that. Or just message SteveC200
After a few hours messing with it, finally found a solution to that problem which created a new problem. I'm starting to get frustrated now. I ended up going all out with the car, drifting around and doing a few burnouts ( not too hard ) which caused the car to start working properly again, RPMs dropped but around 50-100 at maximum and rarely, which is normal. I reckon it was one of the spark plugs which wasn't working, causing it to pop, misfire and have a struggle with running. New problem - Car tends to overheat when idling on spot. It almost caught on fire, I freaked out. I went into the garage and left the car cooling down after 3 cooling laps infront of the garage, came back outside in like three minutes and there was smoke everywhere, the coolant was boiling and the green coolant liquid was all over the engine bay. Only way to cool it down was by driving - what could cause this?