CA18DET preservation society

Thread in 'Drifting Chat / Pictures / Videos' started by dori_wey, Nov 11, 2012.

  1. kellman

    kellman Member

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    I miss my ca already, lost the love but I've found it again sooner than I thought :(
     
  2. steve109

    steve109 Member

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    Just read this!

    I just went to Halfords (I know not ideal!) but they sell fuel water and oil hose by the meter out of the back of the store at decent prices.

    I bought I think it was 19mm ID hose 1 metre, 15.8mm ID 3 meters, 36mm ID about 30cm and some 6-7mm fuel hose about 1 metre to re-do all the breather pipe work.

    I then got an array of jubilee clips decent ones from BnQ about about 20 up to 11-13mm size, 20 medium 13-22mm and 20 larger 13-25 ones i think they where along with a couple of even larger ones for the 36 ID pipe work

    Little trick I did - there's a tight bend in the coolant pipe from the metal pipework up to the plenum and with straight pipe the pipe kinks, so I slid in some fuel hose within the 15.8 pipe so that it wouldn't kink, and has worked an absolute treat.

    Few photos

    [​IMG]


    You can see the kink in this one before I put in the fuel hose inside

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  3. caged

    caged Drift Gibbon

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    not worried bout majorly reducing flow?
     
  4. steve109

    steve109 Member

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    Not since the pipes after it are even smaller
     
  5. dori_wey

    dori_wey Member

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    I like the write up there steve on the way you did that looks so much fresher :) saves getting one of those sfs performance kits, what else you got planned mate ?
     
  6. steve109

    steve109 Member

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    Cost me around 50 quid including the jubilee clips so saves a few quid as well.

    I do like the look of it its much cleaner, I'm a fan of keeping things looking factory ish

    Just sourced 444's, z32 maf and pigtail and a t28 turbo so saving up for remap with all those on my nistune after I've sorted some other stuff out
     
  7. dori_wey

    dori_wey Member

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    yea does look good mate loving the budget option but so much fresher tidyy
     
  8. Mr III

    Mr III Active Member

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  9. Chunky Nugget

    Chunky Nugget honkeytits!!

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    Liking this, you guys are cool.
    Always loved CA's and will defend them to the end, go awesome, sound awesome, awesome torque for a little 1.8.
    Allways rocked CA's, bandwagon doucher numbers seem to be dropping too which is nice.
    Built a lot of these too so if I can help anyone with anything I will, but you guys seem to have most bases covered.
    Keep it up my ca brothers!
     
  10. SteveC200

    SteveC200 Used to drift, now I don't.

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  11. Gooly

    Gooly Member

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    Hey guys, bought a pignose 200SX S13 on sunday, had a jap spec CA18DET in it, seems to be standard other than a ram air filter. Anyway, did 300 miles no probs till tuesday night; the heater started blowing cold, I parked up and left it for a while and checked the header tank; was quite low so topped up with some water. Let it cool more, then started to drive home; about 10 miles later I heard a clicking on the throttle, pulled in to services and the engine died as soon as I dropped the clutch. Tried to re-start it, cranked real slow and then I saw steam coming out of the bonnet...

    Opened up the hood and there was steam/smoke whatever coming out of the cam cover, particularly near the cambelt cover. Later on after it had cooled down a bit I turned it over again and there was no spark whatsoever and it spun really freely, like theres no compression :/ Obviously theres not much that can be said without opening things up or doing tests but ATM the car is sat at my uni campus and I only have basic tools (torque wrench, screwdriver set, jack) so I just wanted to see if anyone had a rough idea on what was wrong? The temp gauge was fine when all this happened, and theres no mayo under the cap or residue by the cam covers, so HG seems fine, and when you crank it you can smell a bit of unburnt petrol which means the fuel pump must be working. I tried disconnecting the temp sensor and starting it but no difference.

    Any ideas? I'm down in Sussex for uni and I don't know anyone into cars here and havent found any decent mechanics or jap specialists.
     
  12. Mr III

    Mr III Active Member

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    Cheers dude, I paid alot more for the ecu when i bought it but it seems like its what they are going for. The Z32 was new when i bought it too, only done about 10k miles too.

    Tony
     
  13. Minkjedi

    Minkjedi Member

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    Just a comment to say I have had 2 s14's which never ran 100% and I got my engine in my 13 and running this weekend and rove it done the road to make sure it was all dandy!

    All I can say is I take back what I have ever said about CA's as they are awesome! I love mine! Just dont tell stance200. haha
     
  14. r3k1355

    r3k1355 Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like the head gasket is completely fucked and you boiled the engine.
     
  15. dori_wey

    dori_wey Member

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    yea i have to agree headgasket mate, CA's are good engines people just get ones that have had a hard life lol....
    any up dates on peoples CA's this thread needs mroe pics and ideas ...
     
  16. Gooly

    Gooly Member

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    Forgot about this post; there was a crapload of rusty brown residue around the oil filter and everywhere close; what's happened is that a water hose split spewing out the water (looks like some radweld in there too :/ ), starving the head of coolant and cooking it over big time whilst I dicked about. Time for a rebuild, gonna have to jump in the deep end with this, never gone beyond the rocker covers of any car, (18, only been driving a year, last car was a redblock volvo so never needed to) and CAs are hardly the easiest starting point to learn on... Does anyone know of any picture guide rebuilds? The most detailed one I've found is this; Removing CA18DET cylinder head - Hardtuned.net which is decent but pictures will really, really help me out, and the Nissan workshop manual doesn't actually say how to take the head off; it tells you what to do once you've taken the head off, how to replace camshafts. or how to take the whole engine out, but nothing on removing the head :I

    I've got a DD to get me by whilst I work on this so gonna save up a lil and upgrade it along the way, hopefully taking it to stage 2 or thereabouts, plans are for a walbro fp, T28, Z32 MAF, oil cooler, 444s, FMIC, new rad, metal HG, S2 chip and CA16 cams. Would appreciate some input into that though, will refresh things along the way as well so refresh the water pump, oil pump, all the belts, silicone pipes and maybe new seals if it needs them.

    I'm on a pretty tight budget though, not short on time but am short on money so would appreciate any help on cutting that list down or saving. Main thing is to have reliability.
     
  17. docwra

    docwra Active Member

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    Yarp, if heater stops working on a CA 9/10 its the head gasket thats gone. Its not an easy job but its not horrific either, theres a decent guide somewhere on SXOC :thumbs:
     
  18. dori_wey

    dori_wey Member

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    id just put a oem gasket on mate, as unless your going for more power like above 300 no real reason to get one save some cash and its better to have a weak spot or you'll just shift it to something else
     
  19. docwra

    docwra Active Member

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    Ive run an OEM one at near on 400hp without any problems :thumbs:
     
  20. dori_wey

    dori_wey Member

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    yea there pretty good if your doing a full rebuild and moneys no issue may as well use mhg other wise oem, whats the specs on your ca mate got any pics ?
     

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