CA18DET preservation society

Thread in 'Drifting Chat / Pictures / Videos' started by dori_wey, Nov 11, 2012.

  1. Gooly

    Gooly Member

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    Its a completely standard half-arsed jap spec CA18det, other than an air filter. Jap spec engine was swapped in 60k miles ago apparently. I have yet to find a single mount or casing that has all of its screws; none of the ancillary hangers or mounts are connected, one of the bolts on the inlet side engine mount is missing, there was a bolt missing on the turbo elbow which probably contributed to what felt like a boost leak, etc etc. Now these wouldnt have contributed to the failure but its worrying, because if whoever swapped it cut corners on simple stuff like this, what else have they cut corners on??

    Will put pics up in a bit just for reference anyway. So far i have removed the breather pipes that go over the cam cover, the turbo elbow and the turbo heatshield, so not much progress.
     
  2. Catalyst

    Catalyst Member

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    Second engine has blown now... First engine was the head, fitted another low mileage engine with perfect compression, one drift day and the bottom end sounds like a bag of spanners!

    Think im going to try and buy another engine, third time lucky! I could rebuild one of the engines i have but it will probably cost more to do that! I do love the CA18........
     
  3. lezbrucelee

    lezbrucelee Southwall Smokers

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    If your on a tight budget i'd forget the 444's, z32, and the cams for the time being and concentrate on getting a good solid engine first. I'd be spending money on the other bits you mentioned i.e water + oil pump belts the odds are they are 20years old.
    The oil pump is a bit of a pig to do, If you have access to an engine crane i'd consider pulling the lump out as one (inlet+turbo) and stripping it down on a bench. The inlet manifold bolts are a nightmare to get to with the engine in and 2 of the turbo bolts are also pretty annoying.

    Its not a difficult job to do i can get the head off a ca in about 3 hours now (i've done a few now though)
    I'm gonna have a look through my build pics i i'll see if i can get together some pics to help you out.
     
  4. lezbrucelee

    lezbrucelee Southwall Smokers

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    Got no pics that will really help you out, most of the pics i have are of the engine in bits and it being put back together not of it being removed from the car
     
  5. Gooly

    Gooly Member

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    Cheers anyway bud, no access to an engine crane unfortunately. Access to things is the main PITA, the car is parked in my uni car park and I don't have much other than a trolley jack & stands, torque wrench with most fixings, an electric screwdriver and a few wrenches & allen keys.
     
  6. Catalyst

    Catalyst Member

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    Reading all this has made me think that replacing the ca is the best option. I'm not sure why I lost two so quickly, the second one had good oil, big rad, gauges and all but still shat the bottom end. I must have been unlucky both times. A rebuild is going to be close to £1000 realistically so I think I'll be hanging around the for sale for a tried and tested engine.

    I quite like the fact that it's broken, at least it has personality haha

    Either way I loved the sound it made an when I ran it was cool as.
     
  7. Gooly

    Gooly Member

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    CAs do sound great for a blown 4pot, its one of the things which makes me not want to SR it. Just pot luck getting a good base one to start with, prices have shot up in the last year or so, not long ago you could get whole S13s for the price some CAs are goin for nowerdays..
     
  8. dustyjake

    dustyjake Member

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    Everything seems to have shot up over the last couple of years! I can't believe some of the prices people are paying for crusty old engines
     
  9. Gooly

    Gooly Member

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    How the hell do you take the CAS off?? I got the three main bolts and thats all i can see?
     
  10. cleanhandsjon

    cleanhandsjon Member

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    Should come out now. Gently tap it round as if you were changing the timing, don't wiggle it off, could damage the CAS splines.
     
  11. Chunky Nugget

    Chunky Nugget honkeytits!!

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    What the fuck!!! are you rebuilding in with gold and platinum??? there is no way a rebuild could cost that much an less your trying to forge it, which is not worth it. Head set is like £60, shells £80 Oil pump, £120 water pump £30 belt kit £60. I used rebuild them for like £200 labour , it takes a day max, and thats dragging it out.

    Get the tools out, grab some tea and biscuits ,and get busy with the fizzy mate!
     
  12. SteveC200

    SteveC200 Used to drift, now I don't.

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    Thats not a proper rebuild though is it? What about rings, hone, bottom end gaskets and seals, main and big end shells, head skim and block decking, crank checking and polish/grind etc? Thats what I call a rebuild.
     
  13. lezbrucelee

    lezbrucelee Southwall Smokers

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    Im with you Steve its not a rebuild unless you do all the above.
    I think it cost me around £1200 for all the parts and that was with forge pistons. £200 to have the crank balanced. £150 on gaskets n belts plus all your oils n other bits. In all i didnt think it was too expensive as rebuilds go. My pug 205 turbo was closer to £3000 when that was done.


    Catalyst you should just bite the bullet and just rebuild it youll most likely buy a 'good' engine and the odds are it will only shit itself in a few months and then u got to start all over again. I went down the ill buy another engine route twice n its ended up costing me more in the long run.
     
  14. lezbrucelee

    lezbrucelee Southwall Smokers

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    New PB for ca head removal 35mins. Got no compression on no4 so had to remove head again. Looking like bent valves:mad:
     
  15. Richhudson

    Richhudson Member

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    Quick question for you Lez I saw that you are running non standard breather hose to the crank, just wondering what you used and whether you had any problems with how close the 22mm breather outlet on the block is to the standard oil cooler (if you are running it) I have my engine out at the moment and the old breather is knackered so I have brought a 22mm to 16mm reducer and then i was going to run some fresh hose up to the rocker but i am a bit worried about how tight the hose is on the oil cooler. At the moment I have bolted the oil cooler back on with new gasket and its so close to the 22mm breather outlet that i can't actually get the reducer i brought on to it so im going to have to take the cooler back off just to put the hose on then when i put the cooler back on im worried it with not seal properly because its hitting the breather hose. Such a stupid design how close it is. Plus one more question for every one, what breather hose shall I run, I was going to use braided but I have binned that idea so i have been looking at silicone or pvc braided but i don't know whats good for the job really
     
  16. West91

    West91 Member

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    My CA is damned...timing belt jumped off twice, never ran properly, always had unstable idle and stalling...after i fitted my fmic it won't idle anymore when cold, searched for leaks and found any, now the idle it's not adjustable too from the idle screw, changed aac valve and done the same, i think that the inlet valves are gone...after just 70k km...what do you guys think?
     
  17. zornyan

    zornyan Member

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    Just thought id add. Got a ca in my s13, just been fully forged with a built cylinder head, wossener pistons, pec rods, acl shells, arp bolts and studs, valves springs retainers etc. Literially the full shebang.

    Cost came in at around 4k for parts machine work and labour. Its not cheap but by god id better be reliable!

    Ill chuck some pics up when i can be bothered to pay for tapatalk :)
     
  18. lezbrucelee

    lezbrucelee Southwall Smokers

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    I binned the standard cooler and went down the front mount oil cooler route using a sandwich plate and running the oil pipes along the inner wing to the front of the engine bay, can you not put the reducer further away from the cooler i.e use a 22mm bit of pipe and then put the reducer somewhere else perhaps next to the inlet manifold??
    As for what pipe to use, i used silicone hose but i dont use the car everyday, silcone hose isn't really designed for oil it breaks down over time when exposed to oil but i werent that worried about it, have a look on the rally design website for different options on oil pipes

    dont sound good, my belt came off and it bent my valves, I'd do a compression test on it and see whats what before spliting the head n block
     
  19. West91

    West91 Member

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    I know mate, ill do a compression test tomorrow but i'm sure it's that, i have replaced everything, when the engine is cold and the outside temp is around 15c it idles really low, around 500rpm and i get a vacuum around -0.4. Also if i squeeze the hose coming off the air regulator nothing happens.

    Inviato dal mio GT-N7100 con Tapatalk 2
     
  20. dori_wey

    dori_wey Member

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    another question to lezzbruce, im in the same unit as ritchy, i have a jdm ca18det and as standard dosnt have the oil cooler thingy, how do you go about binning it?
     

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