CA18DET preservation society

Thread in 'Drifting Chat / Pictures / Videos' started by dori_wey, Nov 11, 2012.

  1. steve109

    steve109 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2012
    Posts:
    264
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lincoln
    Mine used to run up to about 120deg, I then replaced the rad with a 52mm alloy jobbie and temps never get above 85deg.

    Idles around 2-2.5bar, when accelerating its around 4-5bar of oil pressure I think. Been a while since I drove mine
     
  2. chidley

    chidley i like fingers

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2007
    Posts:
    2,757
    Likes Received:
    42
    Location:
    Cheshire
    heres something to keep you all moist.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Retro - Slide

    Retro - Slide Member

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2014
    Posts:
    511
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Nottingham
    How much are you looking at for a full CA18DET engine and transmission now days? :)
     
  4. dori_wey

    dori_wey Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2012
    Posts:
    410
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bristol
    Like the look of that ca, what's the plans for it? Pics and specs.

    Mines coming along Nicely now been collecting parts. Have 260 pro cams some 750cc injectors will be a top mounted TD05-18g, just waiting on getting the manifold back and I'll get to work with it, got all the stainless I need for down pipe and that. Will get some pics up soon. Then save for mapping and get to some more practice days.

    Fyi mines always ran quite hot suppose motorway driving oil at 85/90 driven in anger 120/130. That's with a big rad. Got a oil cooler now hopefully knock that down a bit.
     
  5. r3k1355

    r3k1355 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2007
    Posts:
    3,435
    Likes Received:
    137
    Same price as you always was really.
    The engines havn't got any 'better' with age, they'll always be second fiddle to the SR20 and the price reflects that.

    You'll always get some chancers asking silly money tho, but even the newest CA engine is going to be 20 years old now.
     
  6. Doonits

    Doonits Member

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Posts:
    123
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hello, I was pointed to post here with my recent problem on my CA18DET.

    My car had a 2860RS put on at a workshop ( professional ), and now it doesn't idle very well. The RPMs drop on cold as seen on this video and when the car is warm the RPMs can drop about 400 to -600-, almost stalling the car, but it doesn't stall it just roughly runs for a few seconds and then goes back up.

    Here's the video. **THIS IS A COLD ENGINE RPM DROP**

     
  7. jabran200

    jabran200 Member

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2007
    Posts:
    623
    Likes Received:
    0
    Get a warm video up, on cold as the car warms up the idle will come down slowly and sometimes it can be erratic if the idle valve isn't in top condition so it is hard to tell if it is an issue from that.

    Has it been mapped yet?
     
  8. Stavros

    Stavros Active Member

    Joined:
    May 17, 2005
    Posts:
    26,134
    Likes Received:
    9
    Location:
    Isle of bollocks
    That looks like a pretty decent and normal idle for most cars when cold.
     
  9. Doonits

    Doonits Member

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Posts:
    123
    Likes Received:
    0
    It used to be smooth and stay at a certain spot. Although when the car is warm the RPMs drop like that up to 600, but when you press gas when driving and let the RPMs go over 2000 you're good to go as it's smooth after 2000.
     
  10. johnny blaze

    johnny blaze New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2007
    Posts:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    new zealand
    Hey man ive had similar issues. Try cleaning AFM electrode thingies with a small paintbrush. I used nail polish remover.
    They get all dirty after time. If you look through a magnifing glass you will see.
     
  11. Doonits

    Doonits Member

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Posts:
    123
    Likes Received:
    0
    Thanks for the tip! :) I'll try doing that.
     
  12. r3k1355

    r3k1355 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2007
    Posts:
    3,435
    Likes Received:
    137
    Don't do that!!!

    The sensor wire is quite sensitive, you don't want to risk any damage.
    Use a spray can of electrical contact cleaner, you can get it from places like maplin. It'll clean the wire without causing any damage.
     
  13. Doonits

    Doonits Member

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Posts:
    123
    Likes Received:
    0
    Oh damn, good I didn't do that yet :o Any other things to try when I'll go work on it on the weekend? :)
     
  14. r3k1355

    r3k1355 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2007
    Posts:
    3,435
    Likes Received:
    137
    What spec are you running with that turbo?

    It could be a vac/boost leak somewhere, split hose or something.
    You could check/clean the idle valve (I think I remember dismantling one of the valves and re-assembling on my engine)

    This tells you the info to check the various bits of the ignition system

    https://mega.co.nz/#!ZJohQQbD!CIgImhYENUHaEGPx_3D_1FIg9v9YrL_L7z6Gu7wHneA
     
  15. Doonits

    Doonits Member

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Posts:
    123
    Likes Received:
    0
    Doubt it hard that it's a leak of some kind since the fabrication of the piping etc. was done by a professional company in my city and if it was a leak, it'd run quite bad past 2000 RPM also. It's something with idle / ignition, I bet. I'll check the DL link out and I'll try cleaning the idle valve :)
     
  16. Doonits

    Doonits Member

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Posts:
    123
    Likes Received:
    0
    After a few hours messing with it, finally found a solution to that problem which created a new problem. I'm starting to get frustrated now. I ended up going all out with the car, drifting around and doing a few burnouts ( not too hard ) which caused the car to start working properly again, RPMs dropped but around 50-100 at maximum and rarely, which is normal. I reckon it was one of the spark plugs which wasn't working, causing it to pop, misfire and have a struggle with running.

    New problem - Car tends to overheat when idling on spot. It almost caught on fire, I freaked out. I went into the garage and left the car cooling down after 3 cooling laps infront of the garage, came back outside in like three minutes and there was smoke everywhere, the coolant was boiling and the green coolant liquid was all over the engine bay. Only way to cool it down was by driving - what could cause this?
     
  17. r3k1355

    r3k1355 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2007
    Posts:
    3,435
    Likes Received:
    137
    Blown the headgasket probably.
     
  18. Chunky Nugget

    Chunky Nugget honkeytits!!

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2006
    Posts:
    1,858
    Likes Received:
    12
    Location:
    Aldershot
    Air in system, Blocked rad, jammed stat, check these first dude. check top and bottom hose see what temp difference is, go from there.
     
  19. Doonits

    Doonits Member

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Posts:
    123
    Likes Received:
    0
    Just light smoke coming out on start up and when standing on spot. It's really thin smoke coming out from the exhaust but when I'm driving there's nothing so I reckon it's not about the headgasket. Probably smoking due to the cold weathers. (2-3 degrees celsius :s )
     
  20. Stavros

    Stavros Active Member

    Joined:
    May 17, 2005
    Posts:
    26,134
    Likes Received:
    9
    Location:
    Isle of bollocks
    It does kinda sound like they fitted the turbo but haven't mapped it to suit, and it's now fucked up to be fair.
     

Share This Page