Coilovers for BMW e46 (drift)

Thread in 'Technical Questions' started by ThomasJ, Mar 4, 2020.

  1. ThomasJ

    ThomasJ New Member

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    Hello guys,
    I've purchased BMW e46 330ci and I want to slide it (only track car). I would love to get into competition drifting... but the coilovers are done. I want a kit which will do the job for few years but at the same time won't make a hole in my budget. I've read many posts and articles about coilovers but I didn't get the answer.

    Would anybody be so kind and help me decide what to buy?

    Thank you,
    Thomas
     
  2. RozeTheHornet

    RozeTheHornet Active Member

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    I used to run maxpeedingrods on my E46 330 (came on the car, I would never buy that shit) and it was awful. 100% would not recommend, no grip and felt like there was no suspension at all.
    I now run HSD MonoPros on my E46 M3 (12k front spring rate, 8k rear spring rates, front set to half hard to compensate for no anti roll bar, rear full soft) and MonoPros on my E39 540 (no idea on spring rates), would 100% recommend and conveniently you can buy them from DriftWorks :D.

    You also need to decide if you want to run a true rear coilover or an OEM style split system, if you do want to run true rears then you will want at least a
    strut brace.

    Friends have had great experiences with YellowSpeed so I will be trying those at some point.
    People seem to love BC's which in theory are comparable to HSD's.

    Or if you have the budget then go mad and try a set of Ohlins or Nitron or Feal or KW etc?

    Hope this helps :).
     
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  3. ThomasJ

    ThomasJ New Member

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    A lot of useful information,
    Thank you

    As you mentioned the style of the rear coilovers if OEM or true. I've read a forum (https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1939424-Spring-rates-for-drifting) where a guy named SLR explains the actual force of the spring is lover due to the lever of the arm.

    Him: „Now to get your effective spring rate, you need to square the motion ratio (because after the spring compresses, it has to push against the lever arm in order to rebound the wheel) and then multiply that times your spring rate. The actual force the wheel sees, is called the wheel-rate.“

    So that means if I get the true rear coilovers I get the spring closer to the wheel which will result in a smaller lever (I was thinking about 12kg/mm in OEM style). So I could get softer rear springs in order to get the same force applied on the wheel.

    What do you think is better? OEM or true with the strut brace?
     

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