Cyberpunk Mx-5 Build

Thread in 'Project Cars and Builds Threads' started by Doritofu, Apr 3, 2019.

  1. MaccyD

    MaccyD Active Member

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    Build looks awesome. Only thing i would suggest is to fibreglass in something rigid to give your moulds a bit of structure. I might be wrong and they could be rigid as anything, but having made similar stuff before, to keep the repeatability, it helped to eliminate the flex element. We just used some big bits of 2x4 wood.
     
  2. Doritofu

    Doritofu Active Member

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    That's a pretty good suggestion, thanks. I was definitely noticing the flex in them when I was applying the wax, eh. Wasn't too bothered with these ones since I'll be making new ones soon with better flanges so that I could potentially vacuum bag them in future. A bit of a waste only using them for a single pull but they could make good emergency backups.

    Micro update:
    Ran into some issues with the gelcoat on my rear pull today, shitty weather and not enough thickness in my first layer resulted in some de-lam so I'm going to have to try again in a few days. In the mean time I've been contacting the 3d scanning companies and holy balls 3d scanning is a lot more expensive than I thought.

    But...

    I just tested lock to lock with the front flare on and we have heaps of clearance all round so that's a win at least.
     
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  3. Doritofu

    Doritofu Active Member

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    So after failing the first attempt at the rears, I tried a much thicker gelcoat layer and more cure time and that gave me a perfect pull with no issues at all. Now I have both front and rear flares.

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    All the little details transferred over well even though the mould was a bit of a rush job.

    What was difficult however was actually fitting this rear flare. The front went on no problem, everything lined up perfectly as I expected and there was no need to massage or pull the front to get it on.

    This rear however, holy shit, what a mission. For some reason it just didn't seem to want to fit, I used the bolt holes by the reflector to start with but if I lined it up with that then it wouldn't join up around the door. I ended up putting a screw down in the bottom corner by the door, then pulling and pushing the whole kit to as close as I could to line up with everything else.

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    In the end it fitted up alright, the bottom corner could be a bit tighter, but it just feels like its under a fair bit of tension. I've never fitted any widebodys before so I don't know if this sort of thing is standard, but I'm debating whether I need to make another temporary mould and hope that it works better.

    ozSyozd.


    My best guess is I went a bit heavy when applying the resin and put too much on in one pass which heated as it set and warped a bit or built in some residual tension on the mould. Yeah... Some simple wooden braces would have been a good idea.

    Anyway, I'm getting the car ready for a test drive just to make sure nothing rubs and it can handle bumps and everything in the road. When I'm ready to make them into the final plugs I reckon I'll reinforce behind them with some wood and a lot more glass so they keep their shape even off the car, not sure how well that will work with this rear one though.

    I'll update after some testing to see how it goes, and also more updates with the scanning and machining as well.
     
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  4. jon07043278

    jon07043278 Well-Known Member

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    The fit is still a hell of a lot better than most. I've got a genuine Vertex kit on my soarer and it still requires a little bending to bolt it on properly.
     
  5. Doritofu

    Doritofu Active Member

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    That's reassuring. It turns out that taking it on and off over the past few days has loosened it up a bit as well, so it's not that bad anymore.

    It's time for pictures to distract everyone from the fact I have made no progress with this so far this week!

    Yy9Ri9S.

    OX4D18B.

    As you can see, the wrap is mostly off. It ended up taking a lot of the clear coat with it so there was a lot of sanding to get the panels smooth again.

    Today was also the first day since starting on the widebody that the car has actually moved a direction other than vertical, so naturally I got as many photos as I could with it all the way on the ground.

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    From the side, the rear flare definitely looks a little unbalanced, a bit too thicc at the front. From every other angle it looks about right so I'm making the decision to leave it.

    I'm also going to drop this side view here on the very slim chance any photoshop addicts want to have a crack at a cyberpunk livery for this. MS paint also very much accepted. :thumbs:

    iBtmZlx.

    The plan today was to take it out for a test drive to test clearance. I managed to make it all the way out of the barn before I discovered the first issue.

    HLiHLbS.

    So this spot on the rear flare just barely clears the tire, but when a chonky boi like me hops in the car it rubs straight away on the tire. So back in it goes it goes for a little trim. I expected this but I couldn't be sure with the foam in place. It's trimmed now and I'm working on smoothing the flares back out again.

    Seeing the car outside and from new angles has really given me my motivation back after hearing how much the scanning and machining is going to cost. (It's a lot. Honestly, I could buy another mx-5 for the cost to get the other 2 flares done.)

    8av061T.

    4GSoGRB.

    You can see on the front fender there I'm testing a small patch of vinyl wrap I picked up. I got a really good deal on a 25m roll of matte silver/gunmetal wrap which should easily do the whole car so I'm pretty stoked on that.

    The idea with the livery now is to go for a monotone base colour with a variety of accent colours. Though I am really liking the idea of silver and red from seeing the old wrap left on some of the panels.

    In other news the electric conversion has fallen through. It's going to cost about $30,000 NZD for the parts alone, not including the time it will take me to install. So I think I just have to wait a few years for the technology to catch up and make it affordable.

    On the plus side it means I get to test my cool exhaust idea so that's something!
     
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  6. jon07043278

    jon07043278 Well-Known Member

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    Are you going to run any other aero? Skirts? Rear bumper?
     
  7. Doritofu

    Doritofu Active Member

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    My full plans for just the body at this stage are:

    - Roof spoiler is still on it's way (might have been scammed)
    - Just got a universal single drop vent which I will be moulding into the bonnet over the next week or so when it arrives.
    - Also plan to add canards to the front and maybe make a custom splitter if I think the car needs it.
    - The car came with sideskirt extensions which I could put back on or make new ones to match the splitter if I do that.
    - I want to replace my rear boot garnish as my one disintegrated.
    - Either a rear bumper delete or cut for a yoshimura motorcycle exhaust up and across the back end of the car.
    - Adding those extra caps to the side of my ducktail as well as the extra wing on top.
    - I also want to do something to the front bumper, either extend the grill or cut some extra slots, still unsure at this stage.

    Then there are still loads of little extra things like 3d printed camera housings, external oil cooler, light bars, LEDs. I'm also going to be redesigning and making the wheel aero covers out of fiberglass as the prototypes were way too flimsy.
     
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  8. s15-newbie

    s15-newbie Member

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    the style you are going for isn´t my taste but i´m full of respect to your work you are spending and the quality of your fender flares. as i´m working on a project with similar fibre work is coming up i know how much hard work you have put into it.
    i don´t know how much a mx5 is within uk, if you say the 3d scanning and milling of moulds does cost alot, how about of 3d scanning it by yourself? i payed around 900€ 2years ago for a david3d with structured light scanning system. don´t know the current prices of used systems but the benefit would be of possible reselling such a system without financial loss.

    maybe there would be a service where you could get it for small money for 1-2days. milling costs is another chapter :).

    other than that you could do it old style with copying it by using a shape dublicator and a simple cross line laser . would surely took much more time, but this method is the cheapes one. i would preffer this kind of methode as you are going for just 2x parts.
     
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  9. Doritofu

    Doritofu Active Member

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    Thanks man, I hope seeing this amount of effort doesn't put you off your project haha. The style I'm going for is pretty love or hate so that's all good! :thumbs: What I found with the scanning and machining is that the scanning is the cheaper part, only about $500 - $1,000 NZD, the machining is where all the cost comes in. The issue is I have to pay a specialized company to use a massive CNC machine to make it, and I have to pay them for materials as well. I looked into getting a 3D printer and making it in pieces, which is cheaper, but then there would be a lot of work afterwards smoothing it all out.

    Thing is, if I don't value my time, then I was able to make the first side for around $800 with just the foam, bog, fiberglass etc... but if I worked at NZ's minimum wage of $17.70 an hour for 30 hours a week over 9 weeks, then that's almost $4,800 worth of labour. So paying only $3,000 and ending up with almost a finished plug that requires minimal work turns out to be the cheaper option.

    And if I tried to just remake the other side myself by making templates and copying it all, I dont think I'd ever finish it to my standards haha. At this stage I just want the kit to be finished as soon as possible.

    I've spent a lot of time in Excel spreadsheets to find the cheapest option, turns out mould making is expensive business.
     
  10. s15-newbie

    s15-newbie Member

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    no, seeing all this work will not stop me doing my project, its kind of motivation for me. what i´m going for is to make a kit for Nissan Stagea M35 with full R35 Style body. Because i have 3x Stageas here it paying off to do the moulds. but time is little and i have to finish another project first (rx7 fortune).

    3000NZD sounds more than fair to me, compared to the working hours you would need to do. converted to EUR thats about 1700€, a price you wouldn´t be able to find here in germany for that kind of work. just be sure they will scanning the fender flares when they are installed to your car. i wouldn´t recommend to scan the moulds or unmounted parts.


    read your project from the beginning and have a look into your project from time to time. will keep following it :) *thumbs up*
     
  11. Doritofu

    Doritofu Active Member

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    That is the most insane coincidence. I've also got an M35 stagea and an R35 front end that I will be making a kit for in the near future. What were the chances of that?

    And I wish I could keep the parts mounted to the car, but in order to make the flanges for the mould I'm pretty sure they will have to come off. I plan to heavily reinforce the backs of the flares while they are fitted to the car with wood and more fiberglass so that once removed they don't change shape at all. It sounds like you have a bit of experience here, you reckon that plan should work? Or is there an alternative method you would suggest.
     
  12. s15-newbie

    s15-newbie Member

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    haha, thats funny. think the chances are pretty small. if you want we could write over PN to not flooding your project thread. (is your PN-function turned off?)

    adding some wood to make the mould stiffer is a good option i would also recommend. reason i would recommed to no scan the moulds is, that you couldn´t be 100% sure that the mould is 100% straight when scanning, even with stiffening.

    i personally would scan the parts when mounted, remove the screws from the 3d data and mirror the data (ist just one click in most software), then let a company let milling them out of a block, prepair the milled pieces (make them smooth with primer and painting) and take a mould directly from that.

    if you making a project thread for your stagea give me a short reply please :).

    if you send me a pm or mail i could send you links to 3x stagea m35 projects from uk, finnland and russia. its interesting to see the differences between the results.
     
    #72 s15-newbie, Oct 6, 2019
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2019
  13. Fraser Mac

    Fraser Mac Moderator
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    10/10 Job Mate!
     
  14. Ptank

    Ptank New Member

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    Great work as always. Just to chip in there's plenty of surfboard shapers these days that have 3 axis CNC's they use for machining foam blanks. Could be another option for you
     
  15. Doritofu

    Doritofu Active Member

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    Cheers lads, I appreciate ya. And that tip about the surfboard shapers is a really good idea, I had a look and there are quite a few around with CNC's, so I'll have to check that option as well once the scans are finished.

    As I mentioned I ordered a bonnet vent that I was going to mould into the bonnet. So it arrived and I went ahead and started the process of putting it in place.

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    required a bit of trimming to get it small enough to work with

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    with it trimmed it was time for the point of no return,

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    It was an insane amount of metal that needed to be cut out, even most of the bracing had to go, but I was finally able to get the vent in place.

    to hold it in place while the glue dried I used a few self tapping screws around the outside. I wasnt able to get any clamps or weights that would work but this solution worked fine.

    EEZjd68.

    The only glue I had on hand was some 5 minute epoxy, unfortunately I didn't mix enough in the first batch and it started to set while I was screwing it together, the back ended up with a pretty annoying gap that took a lot of filler to smooth out

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    Luckily it all ended up smoothing out alright and the final product looks pretty mean, happy with how it turned out.

    With that out of the way I also finished smoothing the rear flares. Now I've begun getting them ready to make the final plugs and I've also finally decided on how I'm going to scan the parts.

    I'm currently working on the flanges for both flares, I got some polycarb that I was going to glue on but the shape was really tricky so I ended up just going with some fiberglass flanges as it was the easiest solution.

    DxmgXx8.

    These flares are going to be glued to the car with the flanges fitted, and then that will act as my final plug. Once the plugs are finished I will use them to make the final production moulds, I will make them a bit more carefully, a bit thicker, and most importantly with some wooden bracing fiberglassed in place while on the car. I then plan to take these finished moulds which will be rigid as h*ck and get them scanned off the car.

    This is the best solution that I could find after thinking about it for weeks so now I'm just going to do it and get this kit finished ASAP. I'll keep you all up to date with these flares, but I'm getting ready to move onto something a bit different.
     
    #75 Doritofu, Oct 14, 2019
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2019
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  16. Ortega

    Ortega Member

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    I know you might see little progress as you’r in the shit dayli...

    But the rest of US can see the awesomeness unfold!

    don’t dispair, don’t give up!

    what you are doing is no less than epic.

    i might not be a cyberpunk fan, but I keep comming back for more.
     
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  17. Doritofu

    Doritofu Active Member

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    Who doesn't love late night impulse buys?

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    Sleepy eyes are badass. And most importantly, completely reversible when I decide that I don't like them anymore in a months time probably.
     
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  18. UmiYama

    UmiYama New Member

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    Those Wide-body kits Looks Futuristic. You should totally Sale those kits.
     
  19. Doritofu

    Doritofu Active Member

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    Glad to hear this is ticking all the right boxes, cheers :thumbs:

    I've been making steady progress on this lately. But knowing that this was the final mould it has been a real test in my patience making sure everything is perfect, no air bubbles, good cure times, even layers of glass etc... but I am finally getting somewhere with the rears.

    Before that though, my roof spoiler finally arrived!

    I realized that since I had a fiberglass rear window I could actually bolt the spoiler on rather than glue it, so I fitted some rivnuts to the spoiler and drilled some holes in the roof skin and got this.

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    I also had a look at replacing my rear garnish since my one "broke unexpectedly" when I attempted to remove it with a claw hammer. Turns out them breaking is pretty common but that doesn't make them any cheaper, so I went through the bins and got all the parts back together to try fix it.

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    Good news was I still had most of the pieces, bad news was there were about 20 individual pieces I had to try and piece together. Luckily I had plenty of spare time while waiting for resin to dry on the moulds.

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    All the pieces epoxied together cleanly and then I just went over the back with a couple layers of fiberglass to hold it together, then threw it back on the car. I also removed the rear key since the idea of locking the keys in the boot was giving me anxiety, so I'm replacing the rear boot latch with the same toggle latches I've ordered to hold the roof on.

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    Then finally for the moulds.

    Again I decided I would focus on one at a time to make sure I could get all the timings perfect and so here's the progress with the rear,

    Got the flanges fitted and finished blocking out the rear section for the last time.

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    Then primed the whole thing, blocked it again down to 240 grit, then gave it about 8 coats of wax over a couple days then a final coat of PVA.

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    Then just the usual, tooling gelcoat, tissue, and 3 layers of glass for the initial stage. Then I left it to cure while I did some family stuff. After that I came back and added in some 18mm plywood bracing. Sealed the wood with another couple of layers of just resin and right now I'm just waiting for the glue and resin to cure before doing some fillets on the braces and a final 2 layers of glass to lock it all together.

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    Since I have to wait a couple days for the glue I used on the bracing to cure, I've started on the front flanges and it all seems to be going well.

    Hopefully over the next week I should be well underway with the front mould and the rear mould should be finished ready for scanning.
     
  20. s15-newbie

    s15-newbie Member

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    great work. but i would recommend to make the mould more stiff. otherwise it will start to twist in green sections.

    ZVJt2rK.
    große bilder hochladen
     

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