Diggory: the Y32 Nissan Cedric

Thread in 'Project Cars and Builds Threads' started by ali303, Jun 7, 2015.

  1. ali303

    ali303 Member

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    Quick pic from the Corolla Brotherhood meet on Sunday, people could see the Cedric tucked away in the workshop so I decided to drive him out for a bit and enjoy some sunlight for the first time in a while. MOT soon and then hopefully back on the road.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Elonexx

    Elonexx Member

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    I'm all one for a clean low cruiser, but those front bumper scars just make it!
    Looks awesome man :thumbs:
     
  3. Drifttrader

    Drifttrader Member

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    This is fucking beautiful
     
  4. Kingk

    Kingk Member

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    Hey bud, loving the car and the build!! Just wanted to ask a question? How did you fit the curtains to frameless doors? Looking at getting some for mine but can't work out how the top will fix without the frame there?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  5. y32cedglo

    y32cedglo New Member

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    Love the build, brother. I am importing a Gloria to the states and was wondering if you knew if the brake rotors and pads were interchangeable with any other Nissan model? I know you mention a lot about 240 and 300 parts for the suspension, but of course we never got the Y32 here, so brakes would need imported unless they are shared with another model. Any help appreciated!
     
  6. gaz_moose

    gaz_moose .MTM.

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    ^^if the front brakes are 280mm vented discs with the 4 pot sumito calipers then you can just buy 300zx discs and pads^^ I think your 5 stud hub s14 240sx discs and pads should be the same for the front. (they are in the UK)
     
  7. speedracer69

    speedracer69 New Member

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    where did you go about it acquiring parts. I just bought a y32 gloria ultima a couple months ago and am looking into fixing a lot of issues with her.
     
  8. ali303

    ali303 Member

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    Long time no update; since Autumn 2015 this has basically sat untouched and has only really moved when it got transported from Birmingham back to Manchester, although a few auto danger drifts around the Driftworks estate were performed before it was loaded onto the recovery truck.

    I can't remember where I left off but I think the last time I posted about the car it was looking pretty but, electrically at least, didn't work properly. This meant no wipers, no headlights and some wires near the headlights getting extremely hot and, subsequently, no desire to drive it on the road. The fuel gauge had also stopped working and, while it was hardly crucial, the 12V cig lighter ports not working properly (and turning off completely when the headlights were turned on) really pissed me off too.

    Fast forward...a long time and not only does it still not work but it also doesn't look cool either. It's been dumped for the last nine months as I've been too busy with my C33 Laurel and business stuff. However, this weekend just past saw drifting OG and Nissan wiring legend Norfy visiting Manchester for a stag do that we would both be attending. He kindly travelled up a day early so we could take one last ditch effort and sorting this daft car out once and for all. I was fearful that, if Norfy couldn't figure it out, the only use this would car would see would be in some sort of track capacity save buying a complete other car to steal the loom/electrical parts from to keep it as a road car with all the creature comforts.

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    Long story short, Norfy prodded away with his probe tester making notes here and there. More and more pieces of dashboard trim were removed at his request until the inevitable "can we take the dash out?" question came. As far as dash removals go, it was actually pretty easy and gave us maximum access to necessary wiring.

    IMG_5441.JPG

    That was when Norfy spotted this chap that had been mounted to the metal cladding that surrounded the radio/climate control enclosure. It had done a melt after the loom relocation and killed one of the wires that ran from it, along the back of the dash, through the footwell and down into the engine bay. A fresh piece of wire was run along with tidying up the ones alongside it that had felt the heat and, after piecing everything back together and locating what caused the melt in the first place, we were back in business.

    IMG_5442.JPG

    The fuel gauge and 12V ports were thankfully pretty easy fixes for Norfy too, so now I have a fully functional but rubbish looking Cedric to be put back into daily driver duties this week, which is ideal as I'm getting really bored of my VW in this nice weather (Cedric also has air con, VW doesn't, so it's a no brainer really...that's what I keep telling myself at least).

    IMG_5450.JPG

    I tackled a few other jobs afterwards, which included replacing the stock tension rods that had worn so badly that you could grab the front wheels and rock them back and forth. Thankfully I had a pair of old Japspeed items that had once been fitted to my white S13 and purple PS13 (not at the same time of course) that will do the job for the time being, so I whacked them on.

    IMG_5522.JPG

    Time to start speccing up a new suspension setup and some new wheels...

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    ...stay tuned Y32 friends!
     
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  9. jaze

    jaze New Member

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    I've been waiting ages to see an update on this! I have a y32 Cima in the US, and it has been extremely difficult to do any research. I pretty much just read your thread over and over again, it's the only point of reference I've found. Thank you for detailing the process, it has been beyond helpful to a lot of us that own these cars in the US.

    I was hoping you could help me, do you know if the y32 Cimas are any wider in the arches than the Cedric/Gloria? My new rear wheels are 18x11 -2 and I am concerned about not being able to fit them properly with out taking a hammer to the fenders. I don't mind running -10 camber, as long as I can find the right RUCA. I'd appreciate any input if you get a chance. Thanks!

    These cars are new to us in the US, and as weird as it sounds, they are actually pretty expensive in comparison to what they cost any where else in the world.
     
  10. ali303

    ali303 Member

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    Glad to hear that someone out there is reading this! Haha. And I'm pleased the thread could be of some help to you; I remember how in the dark I was when I first started working on the Cedric and, if it wasn't for Google Translate, the 326POWER Japan blog and the ability to measure things up against parts in the Driftworks warehouse at the time, I wouldn't have got very far!

    As far as I'm aware, the arches and relative clearance are pretty much the same between the Cima and Cedric/Gloria models, although the Cima front wings and rear arches do have a little bit more of a bulge to them (almost like a really really small bolt-on arch) so it's quite possible that these will give you a few more mm to play with than the flat edged arches of the Cedric/Gloria.

    I flattened the lip inside my front arches and then pulled them slightly so they gave more room without ruining the lines of the car too much. The rear arches I've absolutely abused with a hammer but have loads of room as a result. When the car goes for paint I'll have them smoothed out and tidied up to stop them looking so ropey. The most important bit with the rear though is clearance above the tyre (which is especially bad on these cars) but that's a totally different story.

    I managed to get 18x10J-25 with 225/40-18s under my "modified" rear arches but only with a shortened adjustable camber arm to take the camber to around 9 degrees (I think it was). However, this wasn't the right way to do it, as the shortened camber arm caused the driveshaft CV to bind pretty badly. I'd recommend using adjustable Lower Arms instead and pulling these out to dial in camber, although bear in mind that this will affect how much of a low offset you can run (not as aggressive as the shorter camber arm method if the camber angles are the same).

    With the stock rear arch lips flattened, low(ish) ride height and stock camber arms I was able to run 18x9.5J+12 with 235/40-18s without any issues. After "modifying" the rear arches and the refitting of the factory camber arms (set to maximum camber) it looks like I can get away with 18x9.5J-2 with a 225/40-18, or a 10.5J with the offset reduced to compensate (should inner arch clearance allow).

    I've got loads of photos to post up from the last couple of weeks of daily driving along with some updates which I'll post at some point. In short, auto and air con good, fuel consumption and only owning cars that run on V-Power bad.
     
  11. ali303

    ali303 Member

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    Hey guys, I finally got round to updating the Cedric build in more detail; it's over 3000 words and around 100 pictures so I'll transfer them over to the thread when I get more time, but for now you can see the update on my blog.

    Photo-21-10-2017-16-14-39.
     
  12. side slide

    side slide Member

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    Nice to see progress, mines been sat on the drive since July/August time. Unsure what to do with it.
    Oddly enough you were literally around the corner from me, I recognise that tunnel with Tesco in the background, Stockport just off Portwood roundabout?
     
  13. Saitei

    Saitei New Member

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    Hello Digorry, Ali, and all other members. Currently working on my 5 speed swap in my Gloria using the RS5R30A mating to the VG30D. I'm using a z32 brake master and brake booster, and I'm using z32 pedals. The booster doesn't sit too flush, and there's going to be very little room for the clutch master, so I'll have that to look forward to. The brake pedal would have been easier if I had just trimmed the auto brake pedal lol I think I'll just go that route instead.

    Last night I mocked up where the transmission will sit and it seems like I'll be needing a custom mount made. Also, the bolt holes at the bell housing don't seem to be aligning with the engine correctly. Cut the hole in the center console area for the shifter, too, which was done using a Dremel tool. Was fairly easy. The auto brake pedal was a bitch to remove due to there being an air duct directly above it and the steering shaft also shares that room. I figure tripping the neutral safety switch will be enough to allow me to turn the car on and remove the key as needed, but I haven't thought up anything about the reverse lights yet.

    Driveshaft will need to be extended as the jatco RE5R01A is a bit longer than the RS5R30A. I was told that the diff gearing will give me trouble, but the gentleman that told me so had done the swap in a turbo car, which used a 4 speed automatic box with a different differential.

    I'm doing this on my garage floor, this is my first car, and I'm not really mechanically inclined so this has been difficult for me. If there is anything anyone can tell me to save me troubles, please do so. If there's anything you are curious about, you can give me a shout here, or on Instagram (@saiteimedia), and I'll do my best to help.
     
  14. RickN

    RickN New Member

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    I recently bought a FGY32 Cima from Japan, and promptly destroyed the suspension while driving through Atlanta. Old shock seals and big pot holes do not go together. I found this build thread while looking for alternative coilover options, since no one seems to sell Y32 coilovers any longer. Will I have to replace the front axles to use the S14 coilovers? I have found several of the lower quality brands of S14 coilovers for cheap. I won't be driving this car hard, so cheap should work fine.
     
  15. Saitei

    Saitei New Member

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    Hey. I don't think so man. Just arms and coils themselves. From everything I've seen from y32 Glorias to 33/34 cimas and Cedrics
     
  16. Saitei

    Saitei New Member

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    Quick update: installed the sumbitch a while back, installation was easy for the most part. I'll bb making a thread once everything is taken care of and I get good photos, and I'll make sure to link it here, in case anyone's interested. Fuck the clutch pedal though that was a bastard.
     
  17. Saitei

    Saitei New Member

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    Also, didn't need a custom mount, just altered the z32's mounting bracket to accommodate my member.... The cross member.
     
    #57 Saitei, Feb 12, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2018
  18. Saitei

    Saitei New Member

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    I'll be starting a new thread once I'm done with typing up this guide for the swap! Thanks Ali for letting me highjack DIggory's thread! The girl will be moving under her own power soon :D:D:D:D
     
  19. kuza

    kuza New Member

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    hi um i know im kinda late but i have a 1991 Nissan Cima FGY32 which has been sitting idle since 2017 and honestly its still in good conditions and recently managed to get it jumpstarted but i will be getting a new battery in a week. but the main concern about the car is the Brake Accuator or Power Brake Booster some refer it as. But i have been doing my research online and haven't found a orginal part in New Zealand (where i live) because its pretty rare here and parts aint that easy to get hold of and only choice is to buy brand new from Japan which will set me back around $1500-$1900 NZD but im trying to find a alternate way that is easier but also cheaper.

    So i was wanting to ask is there any other car models that run the same PBB as the Cima or places of recommendation, cheers!
     

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