I am rather happy with the front to rear weights on the car! This is before any adjustments 1200kg and 50/50 weight distribution. In fact with the correct weight in the drivers seat it measured more like 50.5% rear bias. and it looks like it'll be easy to get a perfectly 'square' car with the cross weights. However with my fat ass in the drivers seat we're still going to have our work cut out. Bring on the snappy transitions! As much as I can't wait to drift this thing, these weights make me want to see how it goes on a track day more than ever too!
Alot of time, thought and skill gone into this. With abit of time to get used too it and a dial-in looks like another championship winning car to me. Just class nice job !!
Over a year in the making and I finally get to do a burnout! We thought we'd see how well the DW86 lights up the wheels before the car went back into the Driftworks workshop to get the brakes working. It's wet, rather crowed and filmed on an Iphone, but it's better than nothing, as on the second attempt we snapped the ASCAR propshaft in half taking out the input shaft on the diff and the exhaust. So it has pretty good traction in the wet . It's all part of the testing process. We'd rather it happen there than towing it all the way to a track for it to happen.
Breaking the prop which broke the input shaft wasn't too frustrating as we had to remove the Winters Axle anyway to replace an outer seal, and while we're there replace the Detroit Locker with a spool. (a posh welded diff) It's easy to forget how big this thing is now the cars built up around it: And all apart ready to become complicated:
Yes! A spool! Good call, a mans 'diff' lol. What type of diff was in it previously? Original one looks pretty funky in that pic, but obv' you had a reason to change it (aside from spools are cool lol).
It was a Detroit locker. It's completely one way, very strange, and I figure it would make the car really unpredictable.
You're a damn sight better at drifting than me, but I've fucked about sideways with cars with one ways, and yeah it's horrible in my experience when coming on and off the throttle. Welders aren't the last word in refinement, but at least you know exactly what is going to happen at all times.
The fun with the Winters Axle continues! Myself and Craig fitted the ring gear to the spool, then set about shimming it. Doing this is quite tedious on a live axle, and even more so on a massive heavy one . We had to call upon a third man (James) to stabilise the one half while I lifted the other half on and off, and Craig did the shims. And the whole axle is now back in place and mated up to the now hugely stronger custom propshaft. Many thanks to Dave Mac Propshafts - davemac_gripperlsd I also replaced the rear AP discs, and outer shaft seals, and re-greased and set the wheel bearings while I was there. We received the new input yoke, and U clamps from Winters in the USA 48 hours after ordering! Awesome service! It's still slightly baffling that these two U clamps are all that hold the prop to the input flange of the diff. I'm told it's the same on drag cars running serious horsepower though, so all should be well. Now all we've got to do is replace the sections of exhaust that the prop stoved in, then we're onto Burnout test 2!
The top arm wasn't fitted in that shot so it's leaning forward. My understanding is that it should be pretty straight with the wheels on the ground, and twist nose down a little under compression. Is that correct?
year thats all we use on are pro mod car and we are on the high side of 2500hp :-) we have a safety ring fitted though it's meant to stop it making such a mess when they fail not that we have ever had one fail on us
this is a pritty good read about pinion angle mored aimed at dragracing but the basics are there Drivetrain Angles: Increase Torque And Improving Hook - Dragzine
Absolute monster of a car. I've been following the progress on YouTube. I can't wait to see this out on a track shredding tyres.
After the rather quick expiry of our first engine in the car, we've still had that little question in the back of our heads: "Have we completely solved the issue with our dry sump system?". We fitted the Spintric air oil separator which we're confident has solved that part of the problem, but after speaking with Gary from Armstrong Race Engine Systems - Cast Aluminum And Magnesium Components For Professional Racing for nearly three hours while he was over at the Autosport show, he showed us some potential other issues with the set up, and we decided to eliminate this doubt from our minds and take the plunge with replacing the sump, pump and a few other components. The new ARE dry sump parts are beautifully engineered.. Unfortunately we're going to have to modify the sump to clear our cross member as we suspected, but this will be done while bolted to Dynotorques dummy block to eliminate the chance of warping while it's TIG welded. Also we found a way to solve the problem we came across of the pedal box moving my driving position so far back in the car that I can't currently reach any switches on the dash when I'm harnessed in. This is a Cartek Wireless steering wheel controller. It fits between the boss and the wheel. Pretty trick! I'm chuffed to see this sort of ingenuity still coming out of the UK.
If that is a two stage scavenge pump, looking at the two lower sump connections and pump label; I assume you are keeping the engine pump for pressure? What are the other two connections for, on the edge of the sump? Nice setup by the way.
It is a two stage with std pressure pump , you can use any of the fittings to suck out , we had him put us one more in I case we had clearence problems . He was a very clever guy who was willing to help unlike others ,
I'm at home this afternoon. Craig's just sent me a message that just says "I'm scared" with this picture :
