Thats a big variable, basically shit loads. Depends on rack position, caster angle, clearence, track etc... I'll try and find the figures from the s15
Iam guessing you are using dw adjustable lower arms? Are they modded/knotched? Fancy sharing how much caster you run (approx) Iam just interested because the amount of lock looks retarded lol On my setup the lower arms are slightly chunkier and I run stock ish ackerman, so I could gets more there, but I have plenty already Please find your figures cose that looks like 60+ degress lock
Why is everyone obsessed with getting a figure? As said it all depends on the car you're fitting them to, your geometry etc etc.... The lock is just a bonus anyway, having a car that looks badass without driving like ass is what you're paying for surely
so when are version 2 available to us folk? you've mentioned previously about the rears having differences to acomidate z32, r32, r33 etc.... drum brakes and the like but are there any modification/ improvement to the front? and if so could you be so kind as to tell us what the differences are?
I agree, its just blagging rights. Irrelevant when you have all of the variables to take into account. A couple of weeks off, no other changes
What ackerman angle compared to stock do the knuckles have? I only ask as ive just read through 59 pages of custom sbody knuckle thread on NS and im curious! Also interested to know how many turns lock to lock with these fitted?
I just wanted too know if you modded the lower arms and approx how much caster you run ie stock, less than stock or more than stock. All out of interest I already have plenty of lock and know how to get more if I wanted it!! Also I already have roll centre corrected hubs so my car doesn't drive like ass!!
I keep reading 7* caster, 4mm total toe out (2mm each side) and -3.5* camber for modded nissan knuckles. Dont know if geomaster's will be too much different?
mmdb.... You couldn't drop me a link to where to get the spherical bearings/bushes from could you??? Thank you
No idea on geomasters, seems to be hard to get info like that. But I noticed that some of the aus guys are running upto 10mm total toe out I run mine parallel upfront lol will do some reading and see what the effects of running loads of toe are.
Iirc mmdb had skullworks in usa do the work so they may have provided the sphericals. There is a dude hosting a group buy on zilvia for spherical bearings, no idea what its all about as I wasn't gonna bother going that far. For some reason the americans really hate the lack of sphericals in the rear geo knuckles. How comes you want them anyways? You modding the originals or fabbing new rear knuckles? Iam just starting out on some rear drop knuckles that I intend to fit sphericals too so keep intouch
SPL rear knuckle monoball bushings 240SX S13 S14 - SPL PARTS enjoy! To see the pic of them they are here http://splparts.com/store/product-list.php?pg1-cid55.html
Cheers Matt appreciate the link I'll let you know Kev, probably easier to fab new that mod the original. Front aint installed yet, just looking ahead at the moment (i've had a few ideas from that site you posted) Cheers
Hi wickedpaint, I don't have any figures of the current alignment of the S15, and I haven't rushed to get them as I have to admit that personally I feel it's all a bit irrelevant unless you provide ALL the information, but then that borders on trade secrets. Unless I told you the ride height, geometry settings, wheel offset, inner wheel angle, outer wheel angle and other modifications for clearance then it's really rather irrelevant. I promise, you'll get ridiculous angle.
I am really interested in the front hubs to my s13. I read that they only fit 5 stud wheel bearing. So I wonder how the bearing axle is mounted to the hub. Is it possible to remove it so I can lathe one that fits the standard s13 bearing. Why are you recommending your own coilovers for these hubs? I don't really understand what you mean by the coilover may not go high enough. One last question. If I buy your front lower arms, can I get them with balljoints that fit the front hub? It says that s14 lower arm balljoints are needed.
by removing your front bearings you will more than likely damage them as they are pressed on, so you'll be buying new ones anyway so might aswell buy the s14/s15 5 stud ones. www.frsport.com do a range of different combos as to which bearing and hubs for what ever car you want to put them on. the height issue is because the positioning of the spindal (the point where the hub is mounted) is 45mm higher on the front and 50mm higher on the rear,thus lowering the car by 50mm and 45mm. so if you have after market coilovres already and the car is sitting nice and low, the chances are that these hus will leave your car physically undrivable, unless you have the sufficient adjustment left on the coilovers to raise the car up again off the ground, and i mean off the ground. when your ordering the lower arms theres an option for s13/s14 etc..i think the ball joints are the only difference because the arms themselfs are adjustable, choose the s14 ones as these are what you need for the geo master hubs. id recomend the offset rack spacers too, to eliminate over centre etc.... hope this helps
Thanks for the info. Do you mean that I need the whole 5 stud wheel hub and bearing, or just the bearing from an s14? Same outer diameter on s13/14/15 bearings?
