Hello, come to fit my supercool radiator in my r32 gtst and ran into a problem. The twin electric fans and shroud wont fit the powersteering pump pulley is in the way, need around 10mm min more room, The stock shroud is pretty difficult to fit in place and with stock viscous fan needed to be put in with stock shroud together, and then it is very close to the rad and the shroud What does everyone run ? Is there any super slim fans out there ? Current one sits 63mm high need 50mm heigh really Wanted to fit electric fans for full control and stock viscous fan i think will take out rad if any movement Any ideas guys ?
Agree that you shouldn't run the viscous. The internals are getting old and any imbalance will lead to the fan slicing up your nice radiator. Check out the Spal line up: http://www.spalautomotive.com/eng/products/axial_12.aspx They make a line of 2 inch (51.1mm) slim fans that pull big enough CFM to not need a shroud. Scroll down to the 305mm section and skim through the PDFs
Cheers for that, what is a big enough cfm for a rad fan. Not a clue of im honest to what is a large amount :/
Anything over 1000cfm per fan and using 2 fans will see you right. If you're drifting on tighter/slower tracks with not a lot of airflow, or you're pushing serious power out of the engine then consider going as high as you can, but I think you'll max out at around 1500cfm/fan with 2" thick fans (which will still be fine)
Cheers for that Two fans at 1000 cfm any idea how that would compare to a stock viscous fan setup if it was in good condition Need to sort myself out a thermostat switch to get the fans on also Cheers for the help
Best to use a 2-step thermoswitch in the top radiator hose when running two fans, that way if you're road-driving and the fans click in at the lights you don't deafen everyone around you with the sound of a jet taking off under your bonnet. Have a look on the Trident page for a thermoswitch in the right heat range, then switch the RHS fan (side with the inlet and outlet) on first, then the other fan on the higher heat range. Always good to run an option to override them too As for getting the thermoswitch into the top radiator hose you can either use the factory sensor port in the outlet casting for the cluster temp gauge (if you can find a thermoswitch with the same thread size & pitch) or use one of the water temp sensor adapters that go in the top radiator hose. I had a water temp sensor adapter already for my water temp gauge so just got a boss to suit my thermoswitch welded on the opposite side of the adapter As for CFM, the internet tells us that Nissan rate the viscous between 3000 and 4000 cfm at 5000rpm. The reason they need this cfm is due to the tiny radiator sizes they ran. Increasing the radiators capability to dissipate heat means there is less emphasis on the fan's cooling ability. From my own experience i can tell you even running a single 1000cfm Spal fan and a cheapie 600cfm fan, and even putting them on the front as pushers (due to engine being in an S13) that electric fans work in both daily road use (stop-start traffic) and hard track work (20min+ sessions).
Well thanks alot for that Will look at getting a spal fan 51mm high should just fit using the shroud, failing that i could sit it against the rad inside the shroud, I imagine the shroud would make the fans more efficient ? Need to look into a two stage thermostat switch, pitty cant take a signal off the stock sensor, Cheers man
On the shroud is best, but if you can't then remove the shroud completely and mount them on the radiator directly. If you mount them on the radiator directly and still have the shroud then you're restricting the flow of air through the radiator where there is no fan. The idea with a shroud is that it spreads the suction from the fans across the entire area of the radiator. If the fans are mounted directly to the radiator they can only pull air through the area that they are mounted to To help cooling further ensure there is nowhere in front of the radiator for the air to escape and avoid hitting it. I see so many setups where people complain about cooling when they have a giant intercooler in front and no ducting from the bumper opening to the radiator. Block off the bottom and sides and increase the air pressure in front of the radiator and you'll improve it no end. Cheap and easy to do if you have some 1mm alloy / road sign, a hole saw, a grinder and some rivets
