Hi guys, I have an e36 325i and I recently put an bigger M-tech rear anti roll bar on. And I kept the front one standard so that it would roll less in the back which I thought would make drifting easier. But then I read this post: http://www.driftworks.com/forum/dri...eer-issues-any-advice-thanks.html#post2497477 And now I am wondering? Do u need a stronger anti roll bar at then front then at the rear for drifting?
front softer and maximum strong in the Rear would help you out. If the axle can't roll, it starts to slide. With an E36 you won't have 200mph drifting issues. ^^ The dude in your linked Thread also has about 6 degree Camber. That's all a lot more extreme than our E36's.
Yeah I wonder how 6 degrees work, in normal auto-sports it would just cause the tire to overheat and pop I think..... I am still having troubles with my E36 tough I can't get it aligned properly and the steering wheel shakes under braking. Also the front tires rub so I need new rims. But I am in deep debt currently so I can't fix it.
the shaking most times comes from the front control arms. (or brakes) get some harder version MeyleHD for example or if you want it softer from M3 3.2. Strut bearings from the M3 3.2 (left one right, right one left) and control arm bearings from the M3 3.0. is my setup. Nice LSD and a fit clutch. that's enough for me to get sideways anytime I want. 6 degrees (or a bit less) of camber can work with a wisefab steering angle kit and so on, but more power would be a great idea then.
How stiff you have the ARB is totally down to how you want the car to behave. Generally with stock engined beemers you want a decent arb. Also you'll want to set your alignment depending on how tight your rear end is. Generally speaking the tighter it is the closer to 0 you want your rear camber to be.
Basicly I have 0.10 degrees toe in with the rear and about -0.50 degrees camber in the rear (couldn't get it to 0). Because I have aluminium diff bushings powerflex subframe bushings and powerflex racing rear control arm bushings. So can any garage check my front control arms? I have 2 one's from the junkyard tough but the boots are still in good shape.... The control arm bushings are polyurethane as well tough so they can't be at fault.... I don't know about the ball joints tough, can I check them myself for play? If I am replacing them I will go with E30 ones I think they are a bit stiffer.. EDIT: I acteally didn't tighten up one nut on the inner ball joint when replacing a front subframe, it must have been spinning while I thought it wasn't lol.
