Finally bought one

We got the front coilovers fitted today using my new strut tubes and damn, i'm good ;D
The fit was perfect, and they are tbh bloody amazing, a complete night and day difference to how the car drives now.

Anyway, onto the write up...


After you have stripped the struts of the springs and dampers you will have your S13 coilovers and Driftoy strut tubes.



Next thing is to remove the brake brackets, hub/ discs and disc shield, A vice is a must, air tools and penetrating fluid are also reccomended!


After stripping you should be left with this.


With everything off.


While it's in the vice its a good time to Mark with a scribe 1" from the bottom all the way round.

This is plenty material, and you'll NEVER run a ma61 that low to require any shorter.


Struts all stripped and marked up for cutting.


I have a Mark, which is about the best fabrication asset you can have, If you don't have a mark to hand Send me your struts for conversion.


Mark thrives on Tea and banter, so i keep him topped up regularly with both to ensure he performs to full operational capability.



Once their chopped they look like this.


Next job is to clean them up with a wire wheel.


How clean is clean? This clean.
Also, put a radius around the edge you just removed.





Driftoy sleeves are a press fit, so Bottle jack/ fly press is needed.







On to welding.




Mark first tack welded the sleeves in 4 spots.


Then fusion welded the first run. ( Fusion welding is without rods)


He did 3 runs in total. 2 with rods were done on a turn table.







First one done, and Brake pipe brackets slotted and welded on.



When cleaned up they looked like this, That's proper welding! :-X




So, Now they need paint,

A zinc based primer is prob the best one to use as the base coat, then choose whatever colour you like, Personally satin black is the only can i need!

Refit everything how it came off the car. (sorry about blurry pics)

 

Cheers man, yeah i did think about finding a s13 at a scrap yard and chopping out the rear turrets, but, In the end i'm more than happy with the rear suspension set up now. Once i got polybushes and some more bracing i don't think it will be any worse to drive than if it was coil over damper arrangment. Semi trailing arm spring set up seems to iron out the bumps quite well and i'm not exactly a championship winning drifter by any means!
I found the s13 was too easy to slide and it bored me really, so wanted a challenge if i'm honest. my skills should grow with the car this year as suspension and worn diff were begining to hold me back from being consistant!

Can't wait to see the GX in the flesh, and hoping for some DWYB days with you when it's finished

 

I got some RCA's from techno toy tuning this week to sort out my bump steer issue's I was going to make my own, but decided to concentrate on making some for cars not already catered for.

It also gave me an opportunity to take some decent pictures of the Driftoy sleeves as the ones above are pretty terrible :-/






T3 RCA'S fitted. See the Quality of welding with the Driftoy sleeves 8-)




I also fitted the Superpro tie rod bushes earlier but, failed to be arsed to take pictures
Took the car out for a test drive earlier and Bump steer is a thing of the past
This means i can now tackle the Pod in full attack mode without the steering wheel trying to rip my hands off on the bottom corner
Today I've also been looking at bracing the car a lot more now, and trying to triangulate certain areas of the car to add rigidity as it's a floppy old bastard and could really benefit from a mental climbing frame cage, but they're annoying to live with daily. More to come on this fruitless labour of love!

 

Went for a drift, ended up killing my diff

Had a day up the pod this week, Bloody wet and miserable weather, but was kinda fun sliding about everywhere in amongst the many spins i had, Sucks to be the one to spin on the first corner though. As i had my last run, the Diff started to shit itself (As YOU'LL HEAR IN THE VIDEO) Good to meet some of you guys up there, and a staunch "BIG UP" to Lex and the marshalls keeping the day running despite everyone still having loadsa tyres and fuel.

Also thanks to Danilel Bridle and jamie Cleague photography for taking a nice photo


So now, instead of rebuilding the stock one with the weir kit i just received.


i have to find another F series manual lsd quick, as it's my only car Karma for being cocky about toyota reliability P.m me if you have one

 

1200 views and no comments, i must be doing it wrong?!!

Yep, since the demise of the Thread Replier i am forced to keep this update short as i don't want to develop the same forum destroying affliction that's hampering peoples typing powers

So, Diff shit itself at pod and i was car less for a while after it make some god awful noises a few days after the big clunk
Rather than pulling out the diff for a 50/50 rebuild i decided to just find another diff. Trouble is that all the Lotus eclat excel guys had been robbing the 7.5 lsds so i was chasing around for a while to find a manual I settled for an auto lsd which came in at a whopping £114 all in. Tcb autoparts in cornwall are the nuts for sporty toyota stuff.






Pulled out the manual one






Auto feels nice and tight as they don't really get abused thanks to the kickdown.

I haven't fitted it yet as i ran outta time today, but after this diffs fitted i will put the manual one apart
for its rebuild with weir parts

Now, reply - I dare you, in fact i double dare you muthafuckers

 

I've found out where they're all hiding sammy! = Ireland
Have a look on Gumtree if you want a clean example, the going rate seems to be about £1500 now, which is still £4k less Than a AE86 These days. Will give you a shout next time i'm going to the pod fo sure man. Dunno when that'll be yet, but shouldn't be too long!

 

Cheers for the replies guys, now onto diff things.

Cheers for the replies ^ I'm stoked so many of you like what i've done with it.

Now for something completely diff-erent


I had a bit of time to pull the old 2 way lsd apart today and examine the causes of the failure. Poor maintainance by Me was the likely culprit :-[ But it never does any harm to dig a bit further!
I was quite surprised to see nothing was ripped to shreads but the next series of photo's will hopefully show you whats lurking inside that diff case.
So call this a "How to dismantle your 7.5"lsd diff guide"


Nice clean bench to start with. Drained diff oil and loosened diff
back plate.




Now you can see the sprung plates in the Diff body.


A bit more closely...


Time to loosen the rear bearing carriers with a 14mm socket.




And now is a good time to punch match marks on the casing
before it all comes apart.


I did the same to line the casing with the crown wheel too.


To pop out the half shafts i just used a short pry bar between the back of the 14mm drive stud and casing.


The shafts are held in with sprung C clips so don't need a crank puller.





Once they pop out.




You can remove the bearing cradles and bolts. If you eat as much Chinese Takeaway as i do, the plastic food containers are awesome for keeping the Left /Right side separate.

LABEL EVERYTHING!!! THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!


Your now ready to pull the diff from the casing. Needs to be wiggled a bit but comes out ok.


Clean up around the bench and put everything else to one side.


...Not like this Shit Nest i got going on!


Spiral grooves inside the inner race of the bearing are a nice touch. If you have a 3 leg bearing puller to hand at this point, use it. doubt your gunna be stupid enough to re use the old ones?!


Photo of the inside of the casing with pinion wheel at the back.

 

Now, Vice time, and part deux, as i exceeded the amount of photos i can upload


Take the C clip off the half shaft and use it to stand the diff up in the vice. Break the tension of all 8 14mm bolts with a windy gun.



In the above shots i have rotated the Diff Casing against the resistance of the shaft clockwise. You can see the big top plate
above the springs hit the right side of the slotted casing.


Now, when i rotate it counter clockwise it hits the left side of the slotted casing. This is not good, there should be more resistance.


Once the Top cover bolts have been freed off put the diff back on the bench.


The top cover is under tension from the springs so all bolts need backing off.


Once undone you can remove the top cover.



This is the bit you need to label up and NOT Mismatch
[hr]




Three friction plates, one of which was worn to shit!
Also notice there is an unused spline on the gear shaft.

These diffs had no clutch discs from the factory as not every customer wanted to drive broadside like Burt Reynolds. But the weir kit will make use of those splines



Put those to one side for now.





Now to remove the Internals.




With brass thrust washers on top.


why my diff failed?!


Snapped spring would account for the noise and shit lock up!



Bottom gear with Brass thrust washer left on top. See the grooves for Lubrication.


Three bottom clutch friction plates left.


I need to stack these up and replicate the thickness to my new weir kit so need to keep these safe.


So, that's how you take one apart. Now time to order a solid crush sleeve from weir to make sure nothing is a weak link to fail again..



As you can see the Weir maxgrip kits i already have contains 2 new Splined clutch discs and 4 new friction plates instead of the weak standard 6 friction plates, So will essentially make these Diff's lock up properly as they are pretty naff once the friction plates have worn.

 

Thanks,Glad it could help someone! Not sure what spec the diff is on your celica, but weir do cover a wide range of cars so maybe something available.


I thought it may be useful to take a few comparison photo's between the Weir maxgrip kit and the standard Toyota clutch plates
to help you understand a bit more why this is such an important upgrade.



This is a better photo of the damage caused by the stock Toyota set up. See the pitting against the back Face of the Gear.





This is the most important part of the kit, The New splined clutch plates. The Diff WAS Designed them, but were Never available ...until now! 8-)



Which fit over the previously unused drive spline.





So, once assembled on the gear shaft in this order.


Friction plate.



New clutch disc




Top friction plate.


The kit also comes with loads of thin shim to tighten the Diff and quicken the rate at which it locks up both wheels.





And new Brass Thrust washers, which are spiral grooved on both sides for better oil flow. And New, Higher Rate springs.




All in all, a worthwhile bit of kit. I'm going to get the pitted gear faces reground so there's less chance of future damage.

And if you ever wondered what's the mechanicals of a 2 way diff this photo shows the Ramps.


Unequal ramp angles are usually found on 1 and 1.5 way diffs, where as on a 2 way such as this the ramps are the same angle. (Accel and decceleration)
they sit together i suppose you could say "Spooning" and when torque is applied ie when one wheel has more grip the top plate twists
slightly in the casing which due to the ramp angle means it moves vertically upwards and in turn locks the top and bottom gears (the worn ones) together against the friction plates.
so by altering the Ramp angle you could also adjust the rate the diff locks up , but that's where machine shops have their part to play.