I didn’t initially plan to build a supra, I was going to use the 2JZ GTE in another car, 200sx or Porsche 944, the plan was to build something for myself that was a lot more bolt together than the S15.3 but could be used as a back up car if that ever had any issues (when its finished). For those who don’t know my previous cars:- This was my last grass track car (SR20DET powered on standalone management):- S13 SR20 built and co ownered with Jeffers which competed in EDC 08:- The RB30SC S15.3 again co owned with Jeffers, currently 95% complete and just waiting to be finished:- The S13 for me was great fun, it was built on a budget relatively quickly and although not hugely competitive in EDC great fun especially even when I crashed it at the SXOC hill climb whilst trying to drift it, Santapod was also good. The S15 has taken so much time and money so far its lost all the fun aspect of building cars for me and is so expensive and has so many one off bits on it I dread it ever getting damaged. So I basically wanted a car built quickly like the s13 but more powerful. To get started I bought myself from here a very badly crash damaged UK spec TT auto. When I got it home I had a good look around it and was impressed with the aluminium suspension arms ect and grew to really like the shape, so decided to build a supra as it stuck with my easy to build bolt together theme and is slightly original. The bit I was after, not bad for £650, I bought it non running but 30 minutes spent cutting out the immobiliser had it going. As you can see the shell I had was irreparable, hard front and rear damage. So I started looking for a good shell, I managed to find a shell minus front end panels from Jezz on the mkiv forum, it turned out to be a J spec Manual TT making things easier as it had the correct trans tunnel. I hope to add better pics latter I had originally planned quite a big building including a internal and external repaint, but due to buying a new house project (garage still not built) I have had to cut the budget so it will be going together with all standard body panels in the standard silver. I managed to get the missing front end panels in the right colour from the Mkiv forum And a bumper from ebay for £1 As the car will be track driven safety is my main priority so 1st major job was to strip the interior out ready for the cage. Unfortunately no pics as I just wanted to get on Once everything was out I stripped the sound deadening out with a hammer and chisel then cleaned up the remainder using white spirit. A bit more weight gone. Then I deviated from the bolt together theme as I couldn’t find a bolt in cage, so went a bit over the top and fitted a multipoint weld in cage (kit supplied by Fabricage Thankyou). Cage is BDC/EDC/Time attack compliant, 45mm main hoop, 6 point with crossed rear hoop, crossed door bars, diagonal in roof and trnsmission brace. Only the 3rd cage I have done but came out really nicely all welds are tigged and I managed to get it very close to the car. While everything was out I took the opportunity to remove the AC matrix which weighs a good few Kg. I have opted to live with the standard heater system for the moment as the majority of it is plastic and weighs very little and I don’t intend to stop drifting if it gets wet. I am surprised just how heavy the bare dash is. I it’s a future item to look at for getting weight out of the car but for the moment its back in to get the car working Side Rear
Roof bar Dash back in with new dished wheel Sourced some side mount seats and side mounts + supra seat brackets. Seat In All door cars speakers bracket, carpet is in the bin ABS is also in the bin. I am really surprised how much weighty tat there is in the supra the interior parts weighed a huge amount and all the additional plating on the front end. I’ll be interested to weigh it when I am finished.
Initially I opted for an R154 and even bought a new bellhousing but after looking at the cost of uprated clutch and flywheel decided to sell the r154 and go getrag 6 speed £1250 (I think I was lucky) which I then managed to source a good used triple plate clutch for £200, which was cheaper than I was going to spend on the R154 + the gearstick would have been in the wrong place. Pedals and were missing from the shell and sourced from the supra forum again, and bought a brand new clutch master cylinder for £80 from the states. I’ll have the standard auto prop shortened when I get the engine in. While the engine was out I stripped off the aircon, had the intake manifold and rocker covers and various other bits powder coated satin black. I replaced the notiously leaky rocker cover gaskets and rocker link pipes before adding a manual spigot bearing and mating to the six speed. I also bought an uprated radiator and silicon hoses to replace the damaged ones I had. I didn’t want the twin set up so sourced myself a precision turbo (not sure exact model) but its big enough. Being UK spec the engine already has 550 cc injecotrs so my plan is to max these out and get drifting before adding more power. Before the engine could go in the oil feeds needed sorting out. The spare was blanked and loctited in. Then a new feed hose made using the remaining oil feed I modified the stock oil return to use JIC fitting and had a suitable hose made:- Engine back in New silicon hoses and radiator 4 bolt rear fitting which I need to make a downpipe for:- I have both HKS (both a bit big) and some unbranded external gate but need to get around to fitting one of them which will be a pain as I have to cut and shut the manifold. I need to get one of these HKS Gate XS Power gate On here
Thanks I was hoping you would see this, is there any chance you can identify the turbo for me. I can confirm its Precision, big with T4 fitment, but thats about it hopefully it should be good for 500 ish. The MAF setup pictured just to get it fired up, I have an AEM on the way for it.
It could be anything from something like a PT67 to something much larger as they all have the same sort of frame. Looks identical to the PT70GTS I had a few years ago, but most of their turbo of similar sizes do. Either way, even a 67 will do well over 500. Easy enough to know with a bit more detail if you liked just by removing the compressor cover and measuring the inducer and exducer diameter, but im confident 500 would be easy regardless.
Thats good to know i'll take the font cover off and get some measurement when I have an evening when it doesn't tip it down every 5 minutes.
Next update For the moment I just want to get out and drifting, long term I will remake the front bottom arms and make some modified hubs but for now its just coil over and diff and some suitable dishy wheels. Coilovers are from BC racing and look good:- Front brakes are upgraded using LS400 4 pots, nothing special but they cost me £50 where as the UK spec 4 pots would cost £500. Calipers are aluminium so improves brakes and saves some more weight. Rear I am just using standard J spec but with Hydro wand (one of my best toys in the s13) One of the things I want to get right as I am not going to run any non stock aero is the stance and wheel fitment. Wheels are blitz technospeed 9.5*18 ET12, I am using 225/40/18 front 235/40/18 rear for the stretch look. The pics below are the wheel on with no spacers I am thinking they look a little week though so tried 20mm spacer on the back http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/zz15/davidreid69/Supra%20build/IMG_0100.jpg] I think with a little roll that will be about, whats DW opinion? Front with +20mm [IMG]http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/zz15/davidreid69/Supra%20build/IMG_0106.jpg No so impressed with the front +20mm looks too much in my opinion, I am thinking +15mm + roll and stretch. Again what’s DW view?
think the wheels looks good with the 20mm spacers on the rear. would be alright on the front with an arch stretch. Or really stretch the arches out and get even bigger spacers. or lower offset wheels.
cool thread mate own a Supe myself, really had the engine for a bargain! i was thinking of doing the same, finding an engine, box & a shell. but just didnt think id get an engine/box cheap enough. have the arches had any mods doing to them for that offset to fit?
I have a set of 15mm spacers on the way, so next week i'll get the rear sitting nicely over the +20's. On the front +20mm would be nice as it gives me extra clearnace for when i add more lock, but i'll start with the +15 and if it does look right I'll go back to +20. I would like wider with more dish, I like the new flat GTR with dish from Rota, I think I could get 12*18 on the rear and 10*18 on the front. But as I keep telling myself I want to get ti working before spending anymore money on making it look pretty.
I think if I were doing it again I would by a complete runnig 6 speed NA as they can be picked up for 3K, then swap in the turbo motor. It really is quite a cheap way to reliable power and the bits aren't any more expensive than 200's. Just a bit rarer, I have been parts collecting for this car for 18 months. The arches are completely stock in the pictures, with the spacers on the arch lip is resting on the sidewall, hence the jack. I have an arch roller though so I when I have the spacer it should take so much work to get them to fit. I still dont understand why most supra owner use such weak width and fitment front wheel.
I still think the rear needs to go down abit further yet, but I not going to wind it down any further until I get the diff and shafts back in. (Waiting on new diff bearings)
Less building and writing, and more driving Looks really 'bottom heavy' and hard as nails with those wheels
Should hopefully be driving it soon as I have found the non running issue. So it may fire up next week when the bit arrives. Yours would look like this if you got your wheels sorted
This looks awesome! First project thread I've sat down and had a proper read through in a while. Definitely sod the Rotas, Blitz wheels are where it's at.
