Outer lips wheel question

Thread in 'Technical Questions' started by Pilkboid, Sep 8, 2019.

  1. Pilkboid

    Pilkboid Member

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    I've always run 1 piece wheels and I've just got a pair of splits so new to it all and had a question...

    They are 18x9 rays style Lk

    Looks like they have 5x4 hole pattern on the outer lips. I'm trying to work out what hole pattern I need etc to Lower the et and get some more dish. New too splits so sorry for the noob question. Am I right in thinking a 40 hole would fit and I just use the hole I need and the unused holes are covered by the face of the wheel anyway?

    Here's a pic...

    Would a 40 hole lip do it and were should I look to buy lips new or used.

    received_2627801933926187.
     
    #1 Pilkboid, Sep 8, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2019
  2. BenRice

    BenRice Well-Known Member

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    Are you 100% sure they're 3 piece? Are you prepared to take a grinder to them if they're bolted & welded? Take a pic of the back of the faces, and if you can, get the tyres removed to confirm if the are welded or not.

    And even if they are welded, i think with those designs they need to be rewelded as the area with no bolts (ie the spokes) would result in air leaks due to minimal clamping force, even with copious amounts of silicon
     
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  3. Pilkboid

    Pilkboid Member

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    Thanks for the reply man, I belive they are but being as they were super cheap I'm just going to use them as skid wheels. If they are welded to seal them which seems lickley then it's too much hastle.
     
  4. joelhachiroku

    joelhachiroku Member

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    Vskfs are the same design. Mine were welded. I cut the weld tidied it up with a flap disc on a grinder just point the grinder a little towards the lip so you dont cut the barrel. The weld is a couple mm thick max. I bolted it to the car and turned the wheel as i ccut it. Took a few minutes a wheel. Bolted the new lips up nice and tight sealed it with some marine grade shit and never had a problem. They have been off roading through the track infield due to no talent road driving with low profile stretcheyness all sorts. Ive changed lips and barrels around too using the same silicone and doing the bolts up tight and still they have air while its in the garage.
     
  5. BenRice

    BenRice Well-Known Member

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    Of course! Forgot they were like that. Guessing VSKF's use M7's instead of M6's because they're not bolted all the way around (makes sense now)

    Out of curiosity, did you seal the barrel & lip together before bolting the face down? I've only ever bolted & torqued everything together then sealed the join afterwards.

    Reason i ask is I've been talking to some people who sear by running silicone between the barrel & lip, let it squish out a little, set the face in and let the silicone set overnight, then put the bolts in the next day and torque down and seal the join again. Seems like massive overkill to me
     
  6. JoeyS14

    JoeyS14 Member

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    Hi mate, I used to own these specific wheels! They were imported from japan on a soarer I believe that was used for drifting! I’m fairly sure they’ve been welded up, rare wheels though so they’re pretty cool! Good luck with building them
     
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  7. joelhachiroku

    joelhachiroku Member

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    I bolt it all up and then seal the lip and barrels. It may depend on how flat everything is and or how clean all the surfaces are. I mean theres no real harm in overkill to be fair its not exactly a long process.
    I do use a pretty liberal amount and have been told its not necessary
     
  8. Pilkboid

    Pilkboid Member

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    Awesome, thanks for the I fo man. I'll run them as they are for matsuri in October then rebuild them over the winter. Thanks again.


    Ah nice!! I got them off Facebook market place for like 100 quid last week. Don't think the guy really knew what they were as I was asking him if they were 2 or 3 piece etc and he had no idea. I've since semi polished one of them up now and it's looking alot better.

    IMG_20190914_094158.

    IMG_20190914_094151.
     
  9. Pilkboid

    Pilkboid Member

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    Were did you get the lips mate? And what hole should I be looking for? Work wheel reverse lip 40 hole would fit?
     
  10. Pilkboid

    Pilkboid Member

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    Turns out they are 1 piece I belive just made to look 2 piece.

    IMG_20190915_144022. IMG_20190915_144015. IMG_20190915_144013. IMG_20190915_143303. One has come up quite nicely though with a little clean and polish. Lots of 400 to 2000 grit!!!

    Just a shame as they are suuuuch a weak et. +39 and 9j. Still will make okay skid wheels. Looks like I'm going to save for some proper splits.
     
  11. BenRice

    BenRice Well-Known Member

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    That's actually a good size for JZX, so consider just cleaning them up and putting a stupid price on them to see if you can turn a profit
     
  12. joelhachiroku

    joelhachiroku Member

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    I agree with ben rice.
    But any info you need man just email vr wheels as they are real helpful thats who i get my lips and bits from. Top notch quality and a pretty quick turn around considering im in new Zealand and they are in california.

    They look 2/3 piece still just a case of cutting the weld under the silicone by the looks. My phones kinda dull so hard to see
     
  13. lowanslow

    lowanslow Member

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    Out of curiosity, did you seal the barrel & lip together before bolting the face down? I've only ever bolted & torqued everything together then sealed the join afterwards.

    You can either dry mount splits or put sealant on the faces. Some wheels are recommended dry mount by manufacturers. As long as the faces are well cleaned and flat dry mount with a bead of sealant round the join is more than sufficient. You can end up with more issues putting sealant on the faces if its not even
     
  14. BenRice

    BenRice Well-Known Member

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    Yeah i hadn't sealed the lip & barrel before bolting the faces in myself, had just come across that method by someone who I considered a non-moron and was wondering if others did it.

    I've done the dry mount method about half a dozen times now, just learnt to go heavy on the silicon & lube the crap out of tyres when fitting so they don't tear the silicon as they slide on
     
  15. lowanslow

    lowanslow Member

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    yeah I know a few people who have done it that way and ive heard mix reports about it. Ive steered away from the sealing faces route as its very messy and its a bollocks to get off if you split them again. First time I split my wheels they had been sealed on the faces and were a mess.

    Best way I found was clean the faces well, rough them up slightly, wipe with panel wipe or similar and bolt up torque to spec etc. Then run lines of masking tape either side of the joint and then run the sealant round, wipe with a wet finger to even out, then remove tape. Gives you a nice tidy seal. Done my splits several times like this and they have never leaked.
     

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