Is it just the standard RB20 turbo? Could be the blades starting to hit the housing Pop the intake off the turbo and make sure the shaft play hasn't increased since you last checked it & check for any shavings Then pop the oil return off the block and make sure you're getting oil out of the turbo (ie the feed or return isn't blocked) Otherwise run it until the turbine wheel falls off
That's the turbo bearing. Usually oil starvation will lead to that. Verify good oil cooling to the bearing.
I took off the intake pipework and there is no play in the shaft. I re-assembled everything, took the MAF off, blocked the pipe with a can and added pressure to the system from a compressor. The whistling noise was coming from the BOV gasket, the air was using the gasket as a whistle, I happened to have a new gasket lying around and this fixed the whistling. Found four boost leaks at the same time which are now all fixed! So far no stalling or whistling of any kind Cheers guys
First of all I'd like to put it out there that I'm not usually the type of person to complain or leave negative reviews; but in this case I think it could save someone a fair bit of trouble and money. In April 2016 I ordered an RB20DET complete engine and RB25 gearbox from JapWestMods, confirmed exactly what would come with the engine and paid half up front as a deposit. In July 2016 the container arrived and I completed the payment and the shipment costs for delivery to my unit. Problem 1– I was promised a specific delivery day so I took the relevant day off work and waited at the unit all day and at the end of the day – no delivery. I managed to get back in contact with them and there was a “shipping error” and the pallet had been sent to the wrong address. Eventually I managed to get it delivered after taking another day off work at a cost to myself, as a I am self employeed. Problem 2 – They sent me the wrong gearbox. After waiting for three months and multiple delivery days they sent me an RB20 gearbox rather than an RB25 gearbox. Boo hoo, yes I still had a gearbox, but it wasn't the one I ordered and they retail approximately £400 cheaper than the RB25 box. So I'm stuck with the wrong gearbox and I'm £400 down. Upon contacting them again it was first of all an internal shipping error and they had sent the wrong one from the warehouse, then it came to be it was never sent from Japan in the first place. So it would be another 3 month wait for the correct gearbox to arrive. I was told this would arrive in October and some items would be thrown in for my inconvenience. Due to a change in rental circumstances at my unit, I needed to get the car back on the road so I had to use the RB20 gearbox. Originally it was confirmed that they would swap the RB25 box for the RB20 box on delivery. But having contacted them and discussed my situation we agreed that I would purchase both gearboxes so as I had already paid for the RB25 box I would pay the RB20 price when the RB25 arrived. Problem 3 – Missing parts from the engine. I treated the engine to a strip down, examination and refurbish. During this I found the water galleries were full of rust and you could scoop it out from where the water pump was. Not particularly a big deal but it was sold as a top condition engine. Here is a list of parts that were promised with the engine but never turned up: starter motor, flywheel, clutch, flywheel bolts, engine mounts, gearbox mount, J-Pipe, recirc valve, piping for WMIC. The price for sourcing all this: £460. That brings my total up to £860 out of pocket thus far. Problem 4 – I managed to get in touch with them at the start of October to get the final date when my RB25 gearbox would be arriving and was told that it hadn't even left Japan and it would be leaving at some point in November. At this point I'm just sick of JapWestMods and they are by far the worst company I have ever dealt with. I've been trying to contact them for the past few weeks to ask for my money back between the cost of the two gearboxes - £400. I have three contact numbers for them which I've called on numerous occasions with no answer. I've tried emails, text messages and Facebook messages but have had no response. In short if you are looking at buying something from them, I wouldn't bother. Save yourself some time & money and buy your parts elsewhere. I doubt I'll ever see my RB25 box or ever get refunded the cost difference between the two but if this stops someone else from losing out that makes this situation a little better.
Good move on giving people a heads up. Would recommend you put it in a separate thread. More people will see it then, and might prompt them to respond at the least Even if you have to delete it for them to refund you money you can keep this post here
100% stick up a seperate thread and put this all over FB. JWM are a big name in the south east and if this gets lots of attention I doubt they will ignore your case, that fully takes the piss.
So eventually I got £350 refunded to me for the difference between the gearboxes, £50 less than promised but it's really not worth my time to argue over it. I also got an oil cooler kit for nothing due to the bits missing off the engine. I'm not really a fan of reusing oil cooler cores but it's still a free GREX thermostatic take off block. However they're still the worst company I've ever dealt with and I'll stay well away from them in the future, but anyway, onward to better things. I'll be honest I haven't been doing much work on it recently, I was driving for a while and now it's tucked away for winter {} So this was where we left off before it went away for winter: {} Visually for 2017 I'd like to replace the front bumper with a GTR replica or something similar. I need some skirts but nothing too lairy, I've been considering some Vertex styled ones as these aren't too OTT. I don't think 2-door skirts will fit so I'll have to keep an eye out for some 4-door specific ones. I'd like to lower it a bit more as it's quite boaty at the moment but the front rolls about so much currently the wings will touch the tyres during cornering. The rear is fully polybushed and the front isn't so it has a disproportional amount of body roll compared to the rear. I ordered a new ARB and front LCA polybushes during the Driftworks Xmas sale. I also have some Superpro bushes on the way for the upper camber arms. Hopefully this will stiffen the front up nice and bring some balance back. I also lost a wheel nut as well at some point?!?!? {} Currently my battery is zip tied to my rear strut brace and that needs to be remedied because it bothers me all the time. Rather than trying to find a battery box to fit this into and mount I went ahead and got an Odyssey red top sealed unit. {} I think I'll get some tabs welded to the brace to mount it permanently or find another solution. But now I don't need to worry about leakages or other nasties. New GREX take off plate as mentioned above {} {} I need a new O-Ring for the bottom as the current one was melted and grim. Does anyone know if I can install another bolt with a sensor hole in it? I would like to take temperature from the currently available port. Would pressure work in the other port or not? On the topic of oil coolers I got a new core from PWR, didn't really think a Setrab was worth the 50% more. {} Now I have two options for mounting the cooler: {} {} Personally I'm leaning toward the second option but I'm very aware that its right in the path of Intercooler > P/S cooler > Oil Cooler > Radiator. I'm not sure it would get enough cool air to operate correctly? If anyone has any thoughts on this, please chip in.
I've had this happen to a couple of vehicles. On both it ended up being the actual wheel stud(s) were worn out and the wheel nuts would loosen and eventually come off regardless of torque. Just had to swap out the studs. On one of the vehicles it happened quick and almost lost a wheel while driving, did break two of the studs at the time also.
Just read this start to end, and i've gotta say it's a very good read... The attention to detail is immense, mucho respect to you sir!
If you're just using the car as a road car then the 2nd oil cooler placement is fine. If track, then the first and easiest to fit with the outlets facing down - you can run the lines under the chassis rail and up to the oil filter plate. Good to hear you got a resolution to your issues with that company too Vertex looks good on 4 doors with just a gtr bumper too
Finally I got a pair of these: {} From Cobra's warehouse sale last month, got a fair bit off retail which was great. I also got two 6-Point harnesses with nice thick belts. Also got a decent amount off these as well and with buying them directly you know they're not replicas. Over the next few months I should be having a rear cage fitted and as much as I hate things being modified permanently I think it will be worth it to have the harnesses mounted properly, gain a bit of chassis stiffening and a bit of roll over protection. Hopefully I can get all that fitted in the next few months before summer and I also need to replace the current Pirelli tyres because they're awful. Then it should be ready for track days. Thanks for the heads up, I'll give them a check over before it goes back on the road! - - - Updated - - - Thanks man, appreciate it, I just keep plodding along. - - - Updated - - - Yeah it will be mostly road use so I'll go for the second placement, bit of protection from stones as well.
Got a new O-ring for the sandwich block {} It's 57mm inside diameter with 65mm external diameter if anyone needs to order a replacement, fits perfect. New rails in {} Really impressed with the quality of these, they even have a tab for the seat belt buckle. {} New seat in: {} Since then it's come back out as it's too tight around my shoulders which is unfortunate. I drove about 10 miles and for me it was really uncomfortable. They fitted fine around the waist and lower back but not the shoulders, weird. These should be up for sale shortly, if anyone's after them, drop me a message.
Got around to picking up some parts today that have been long overdue. New Z32 MAF {} Used LSD supposedly a Tomei 2-Way but I will split it at some point and check. {} {} Finally the fun part Apex'i AX53B70 turbo from Japan {} {} Standard T3 flange {} Looks like an Apex'i wastegate actuator as well? I don't think it's standard. There's also a little heatshield for the silicone joiner {} Full set of braided lines {} However one potential issue is this small chip on the back of the compressor wheel for the exhaust. {} Is this likely to cause problems?
It's been ages since I've updated this but I haven't got around to doing much. Put the 2-way in {} {} {} {} {} Bad things happened, including a lot of vibration in 3rd gear upwards and some play in the driveshaft flange. So not sure if the diff is rooted or its just me being hyper sensitive. Plumbed in the catch can (Don't worry I tightened everything down and fitted a pipe to the return outlet. {} Suspension strip down and full polybush set on the front {} {} {} {} {} {} {}
Sounds like the pinion bearing is shagged. Might be worth checking the stub axle bearings as well while you're in there. Any signs of wear or discoloration and throw some fresh ones at it
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic...d-from-dmms-or-better-known-as-dazmo/?page=13 have a look at the turbos here, brand new and the nut looks the same as yours, i can only imagine its how its been ballanced?
With the LCA's done I got the camber arms done as well with camber adjustable bushes. {} {} I won't take the credit for those, Bobby at Zealou5 got thpse bushes in as they looked impossible to me!! {} Whiteline ARB to go in as well but the bushes don't quite fit so I'll have to get some correct ones ordered. {} Made up the lines for the oil cooler {} Next steps, fix the diff, mount the oil cooler and fit the new battery. First time in a while I've had the chance to work on the car so have a lot of stuff lined up, here we go. Engine oil Gearbox oil Sealed battery New fittings for the sensor take offs New speedo pinion Greddy oil filter Front ARB bushes Defi DIN gauges Conduit for the oil cooler lines {} Mounted the battery properly in the boot {} {} {} {} Fitted the new speedo pinion to deal with the 4.36 ratio diff, black out, purple in {} {} Filled the gearbox oil back up after the pinion change, the rubber boot was split so I had to bodge it until I can get another one {} {} Next to tackle the gauge install {} {} For anyone that needs to wire some gauges in and doesn't have a multimeter Blue wire is the ACC 12V wire, the next blue and red wire is the feed for the headlight switch {} {} All installed and ready to go {} Will keep working on it tomorrow so expect another update soon!
