So, im looking to build an RB25 powered S14A. Its a track only car and i want to run as little wiring as possible. My question- Has anyone ever run an RB on a bare engine loom, Fuel pump wiring, ECU power & ground etc. it will be running a standalone, and any thing else i need will be working on a wiring loom i make. Any one got any pointers, suggestions things i should be looking out for? Thanks!
Depends on what series of RB25 (R32, R33 S1, R33 S2, NEO) but engine harness needs to include: coil loom (incl ignitor if you have a S1) injector loom knock sensors x2 coolant temp sensor TPS CAS AFM O2 sensor VTC solenoid Will also need to wire in the ECCS relay to PIN 16, run a start signal to Pin 43 along with all the other necessary power and grounds for the ECU plug You can do away with the coolant temp gauge, oil pressure light (run proper gauges), idle control (blank it off and crack the throttle), exhaust gas temp, air con idle up, power steering idle up, boost control solenoid and vehicle speed sensor. Depending on what ecu you run you may need to wire in the neutral safety switch / inhibitor relay wiring
Still not sure what series engine i will get, What are the pro's and con's of each? i was always told the NEO is the preffered swap, but never backed up with any real arguments. i want the engine bay as simple as possible. i have gauges already, wanted to run everything i need on aftermarket parts, coolant temp, oil pressure etc.
Search my posts on here and you'll get the reasons why the NEO is the best. They have the best flowing head out of all of them, are the newest so less wear and have more easily upgraded injectors (top feed) Downside is cost and solid lifters can be noisy if the clearances open up. That's it really
Newer engines normally have more sensors and emission related crap, easily removable? im looking for absolute bare minimum!
If you're going standalone then a lot of the "emissions related crap" isn't relevant as it's built into the factory ECU The NEO does have a common issue regarding the traction control issue, but again isn't relevant with a standalone You going Link or something else?
Plan is to go with a Link, make a custom loom for anything inside, all on a simple switch panel, simplify everything i need while running an absolute minimum.
Worth looking into a wiring specialties engine loom to suit whichever ECU you end up with. That way you get exactly what you need and then you just need to make a loom for all the non engine related wiring and also relays for things like the fuel pump. Run all the pressure and temperature switches through the ECU and that way you can set the car up with safety cuts if needed.
Original post said he wanted to make the loom There's a big price difference between a DIY loom and a WS loom. And you don't learn anything on the way through. For ease and quality you can't go past a WS loom, but you pay through the ear for it
Making your own loom out of the original is very straight forward if you can read wiring diagrams, but making a loom from scratch is a very different ballgame. As with most cars of this age 1990’s the wiring is nearly 30 years old and prone to breaking wires and dodgy connections, im having this problem at the moment with my mazda b1800 rb25det drifttruck. If you can afford to build and run a racecar then dont scrimp on its main nervous system as youll spend hours and money trying to fix problems later down the line. Theres many wiring gurus and companies that make wiring looms for vehicles just need to search the internet for a local company that can do it take your loom and wiring diagrams and tell them what you want and they can make it easily and alot cheaper than you might think. But even a basic loom is going to set you back around £350-£500 depending on wire thickness. But trust me a new wiring loom will make your life simple when it comes to fitting and fault finding.
I think there's a middle ground Take an original, crusty old loom. Label and remove the circuits that aren't needed and lengthen/shorten the bits leftover to fit how you want, then replace the wires with new yourself. Again, you need to be able to read diagrams, de-pin plugs and crimp new terminals but you still end up with a fresh wiring loom. The only issue i see is the condition of the plugs, but there are plenty of places selling remanufactured factory plugs already.
Sorry to bring up an old thread, I've put a spec 1 rb into my s14 using just engine and dash loom, I've wired up the appropriate wires on the ECU plug but the engine won't run. Don't suppose anyone can help me out?
