Im going to be moving my rad into the boot over winter, iv got the plan in my head and worked out the best way of doing it but itd be cool to see other setups. Also problems people have had, pro's cons etc. Im moving it as i need to get the weight of the car down, i can only see weight at the rear i can remove, so to level up weight distribution im sticking the rad at the rear, which also get the weight insde the square wheel patch. I dont know wether to run a secondary pump, just the stock pump, two electrics etc, so more on this would be good too. I know Lars E30 with 1jz just uses the stock pump with no probs, so im more leaning towards this route.
i would have thought an inline secondary electric pump in the pipe coming out the rad to help flow back to engine would be good idea, as the water will slow down coming through/out the rad and being that far from engine and engine pump, plus all that extra volum of water!!!
Remember, water weights about 1kg per litre at room temp. Work out the length of the piping/tube. Then you can workout the extra volume of water in the system. I bet any saving in weight, will be added back with the weight of extra water. Checkout the SVA 350z.
I was thinking that it might end up the same weight but if it does the weight would be much better distributed and with in the wheels. The rad im using now is HUGE and sits a good bit infront of the front wheels, once full it weighs a hell of alot. Il also be able to move the 4" core IC right back close to the engine which also is not light and ATM really far forward. So if it does weigh the same after, it will still defo be better than it is now! It actully feels like driving a fully loaded transit lol. I cant take all the weight off the back or il get no traction.
a friend did a rad in the boot conversion, all i would say is make sure it pulls through well and also would recommend it's boxed off from the main cabin as it gets unbearably hot otherwise. you wont care about weight distribution when you are driven to distraction by the heat at a mid summer event and its much hotter in the car than out.
Central heating pump will do the job nicely more than caperble (spelling :*) of the flow and temps they last for about 15 years the only pain is the 240v supply but you can get 12v - 240v converters if your feeling flash you probably get rid of the Orkut pump and pick up a couple of horse in the process
Central heating pump will do the job nicely more than caperble (spelling :*) of the flow and temps they last for about 15 years the only pain is the 240v supply but you can get 12v - 240v converters if your feeling flash you probably get rid of the Oem pump and pick up a couple of horses in the process
Im not that stupid lol, itd have to be fully enclosed incase of a rupture, i wouldnt like to be scolded with hot water!! Plus i think itd be pulled up in scruteneering lol. Plan is to use 6" alloy flexi ducting, two tubes from each 1/4 window and two tubes from the roof all with scoops. The ducting will then go to where the upright of the back seat would have been, then the rad directly behind it, all sealed in with sheet alloy. Boot floor and rear valance chopped out to flow air out. The front to back pipes will be done in 38mm alloy pipe, on the out side of the car under the floor.
I had some experience with this a few years ago with a race car. It was hard to get the airflow to actually cool the rad in the back. Not trying to tell my Gran how to suck eggs but it would be well worthwhile to get someone like Greg to let you use his big fans to ensure that the air is actually going in the direction you want it to.
I have done several remote rad installations (usualy front rad on a rear engine car) The stock water pump more than adequate if you use rad hose sized tubing. Just make sure you can vent the top rad to remove air and try not create a place in the pipework that air can get trapped. Also make sure the header bottle is on the suction side of the pump. It sounds obvious I made the mistake of putting it on the outflow side and could not realise why the pressue cap kept blowing at high engine revs on the dyno.
The way I have it planned il have no header tank, the engine will have two small 8mm outs at the highest points, the rad will have one 8mm outlet at the highest point, the 3 8mm pipes will go to a bubble tank in the engine bay. The front to rear one running along the inside roof line. Then the bubble tank will have one out let which will go to the bottom rad hose close to the engine, this will also be used to fill the system aswel as at the rad cap.
Few pics and stuff here: Speedhunters Might be worth having a look through the build reports on there, scroll down to about half way. Few pics of D-mac's setup. Also maybe worth searching for pics on the ASD cars from Formula D, I think both Mustangs now have the radiators in the rear and I know the 350z definitely does.
Look at mr2s etc, rear engine with a rad in the front, i figure it amounts to the same thing. I don't think you need an extra pump as the pressure on the flow will remain the same, don't think the rad will be enough of a restriction to stop the pump.
i foudn this in google, havent read it but i saw some pics http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drift-car-projects-builds/73978-nur-motorsport-s14a.html what about mouting the rad flat on the underside of the boot lid, twin fans mounted on the boot pulling air in and then ducting from the rad out through the boot floor, that way the rear of the car still retains bumper etc etc and the only addition is the twin fans
I was thinking that but I'd still like to fill the rad from the top and it will better to keep air out of the system, also laying it down will put it close to the edge of the boot so a slight tap could cause loss of water. I plan to mount it at 45 ish degs so the air is pulled down through it and out the boot floor, only having to remove the rear centre valance bit of the bumper, which I want to remove any way as looks pants.
could you not mount it lower than the boot, say 6-10" lower at a slight tilt then have the filler next relocated to the side so it is at the higher point then that way you could have a duct from the boot to the rad with the fans slightly sunken in, letting the natural air flow come in and added with the fans then the ducting from the rad to the boot floor here is a pic. now its not to scale but its an idea red is filler neck purple is ducting yellow are fans blue is rad arrows are air flow
Just to recap. you need full size pipes to and from the rad. There is no need to run any additional pipes to the rad you just need to be able to blead air from it on the first install. You need a header bottle of some sorts for expansion above the engine. That volume of water will expand considerably when it gets hot and it needs somewhere to go. I alow about half a litre of expansion volume minimum. You also need a steam vent to blead any air bubbles from the highest point on the engine to the header. The plumbing is simple, you just need to get it right.
this might help RKTuning New Race Car !!!Build - GT-R Register - Official Nissan Skyline and GTR Owners Club forum
That is prety much the plan but it's going further forward than that, above the rear wheels, so drawing air through the boot lid won't work, il be drawing it from the roof and 1/4 windows. Good point on the expansion, il use the bubble tank as expansion tank too, so il have to make a bigger one, as the one I have now is less than a ltr. I was only going to run the two main 38mm pipes then one bubble pipe to the rad.as the top of the rad will be the highest point in the system it needs constant bleed off.
If you are running a rad cap with a pressure valve you may need to up the rate. remote rads run higher back pressure that can force the cap open at high rpm. Also the engine filler cap needs to feed the bottom hose (suction side) which I think yours is doing. Its best just to have the pressure valve at the bubble tank end so you don't force water out.
