Hey guys, bit of a noob here but what do you mean by minutes? "Measurements are in degrees' and minutes" (not . of a degree!) For example - 1'30" is ONE DEGREE AND 30 MINUTES, NOT one point three degrees."
Hi there mate. I just wondered if you have time to help shed a little knowledge my way. I have alot of neg' camber up front on my s14.5 like 6-7 degree looks like thats not going to change as its in a permenant fixture but need help with the rest of the setting up as have tried a few different settings now & experimenting this much is getting expensive lol I have geomasters on the front with tein rods & ends & offset rack spacers, 18x9.5 & 18x10 running 225/40 tyres but sometimes 17s one the rear due to my 18" gtr-d being to grippy, every dw arm on my car front & back .white line arb's front & back, kaaz x2 way lsd & forged sr engine with RB box conversion. It has since been set up to a higher grip rear end & sent my front wheels forwards very close to the front of the arch so thought whilst Im back here at this stage try to get some info or settings. Im looking for a looser back end and stable controlable steering
Forged engine, Too grippy Stop being a girl, get some seat time and mash the go pedal!! Front camber is off the scale, how much have you extended the lca's by? I run 20mm in each and no lock stops, 235 RS-R and neg 4* 30mins camber, without any issues for the past 18months now. It's probably because you have a lot of tow out as per mittos advice- this requires mega commitment or it will feel like its washing out..
mr MB set it up like that with the grip for a reason when he upped the power as he didnt trust me and also to get used to it then i never chanced it and went through sr boxes so fitted a RB conversion, dont get me wrong it does skid https://www.facebook.com/video/embed?video_id=196282543863523 just compared to other cars its alot grippier and if Im setting it up I may as well do it right. my arms are wound out quite away to get thge most from my geo's & i have as mush lock as MB & Ross, but when I got the lower arms from darren they had no locking nuts so MB tacked them in place so if I want them wound in I have to remove the bolt from the chassis or get new adjusting ends & rose joint.
zero toe at the back will make it feel looser and more stable when drifting. That is, it will start a drift more easily, and is more predictable when sideways, with easy transitions. I ran zero toe for a long time, loved it even, but tried some toe-in and I wont look back now, transitions are awesome and snappy, and i seem to pick up more speed through a drift than most people.
toe in gives a little forward bite. too much toe in makes the car act funny when your off the throttle, in my opinion
Same, just a smidge of toe in on the rear. Zero felt a little naff IMO Had the same set up for over a year an love it
I first tried 10 minutes toe out, it felt real good! but I wanted to try 20 minutes! I've been running 20 minutes toe out for a long time now (for geomasters only!! lolz) on my custom hubs and it's never felt so awesome. -1 deg toe in on the rear. -4 deg camber on the rear this is on a E36 Compact haha
0 toe all round for beginers and people that just wanna drift nice and easy. Toe in/out setups for people that are advanced AKA "I wanna push things further/faster"
Nope, settings are settings. People spaff over settings for difference cars/setups blah blah but it's all (for the main), the same.
