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Thread in 'Technical Questions' started by mitto, Mar 15, 2012.
just this, lots
Could anyone explain why i'm getting bad camber wear when only running half a degree negative rear camber? Car is an S13 with an S13 subframe and quite low (17" lip 5mm away from metal guard).
I only have about an inch travel but I've been told it could be due to the toe changing on compression but i dont know if it toes in or out and the interwebs havent been helpful.
Static toe is set at neutral so which way to go?
Nice thread, with this, i have an idea, but my alignment is so different and the car is so smooth to drive and "easy" to drift.
On the front i have:
I have poor grip at the rear, go sideways when you push the pedal, hahaha.
What think about my alignment?
Been using street/drift setup for nearly 12 months now on s14a. Love it!!
Have just widened the rear of the car 30mm on each side. (Overfenders + hubcentric spacers) will I now need to modify the setup to keep it working well?
Cheers for any help guys!
Hi mitto and anyone willing to give accurate advice
I have a s14a 1jzgte engine single turbo @450bhp, 6 point fabricage(just to give an idea of weight,I have steering rack moved 20mm forwards,geomaster front hubs, 25mm hub centric spacers, 18"et30 9.5j, hsd Coilovers wiith 12/8kg springs, no front Arb & Godspeed rear, all alignment arms, 20mm longer lca, extended steering arms!
I am going for wheel alignement tomorrow and I understand that weight changes the suspension behaviour massively, so I'm hoping you can help!
Minimum or -4'20" camber
20" toe out
10" toe in
Does this sound about right ?
Hello everyone asking questions about specific set-ups!
I'm still getting a huge number of messages on here and on Facebook with regards to alignment. The reason for this thread is to try to help everyone, but I cannot give specific settings on an individual basis. Drift settings are complex and diverse, so if you want me to act as a consultant for you, then please drop me a PM and we can work the cost from there.
Quick question about this just trying to figure it out! What do u mean by minutes?? Is it set to so many degrees and then turn adjuster (for example) 30 minutes ie half a turn? Or am I completly wrong?? Please explain!
Bit of a thread revival I know, but I inted on using my car on the street only (so ideally I'm going for a 'fast road' setup) would I be better going for the street/drift setup, or the whiteline setup? They're much the same but little changes can have a big effect!
Whiteline setup- I'd go for the sport one;
The car may eventually see the track but I currently have my mx5 for that!
i need some clarification, about the camber, the values have to be negative, yes?
im using this setup
MINIMAL STREET / DRIFT USE
camber 2'50" --> - 2º50'' ???
toe 0'05" OUT
camber 1'10" --> - 1º10'' ???
toe 0'10" IN
Stable but reactive steering
Strong rear end grip, will push you forwards
Stable, but needs accurate driver imput
Are these suitable with modified hubs/arms/steering arms/tension rods/offset rack spacers?
Yeees, a mate of mine is running these settings with all of the above
Which settings is he running? I want it very twitchy so that it wants to go out / flick past centre all the time, at the moment I'm having to drive fast, I much preferred my settings i had before which were more twitchy but was only ever done by eye before.. Hah!
The street/drift settings iirc, he did mention a little front toe out helped with the twitchy Ness.. although obviously it's up to you if you fancy playing around with it..
Yeah, I need to get it booked in for alignment just want to try get it right before hand so I don't go back again! Think I need more toe out!
Give it a go man and report back, be useful to know!
Thanks Mitto!!!!!, from Spain.
Sorry if i am off-topic, but i couldn't figure it out.
What's wrong and why do i have such a positive camber on full-lock? What should i modify?
I have steering rack spacers for angle and for alignment: -3 camber, 0 toe, 7 caster
I lose control on full lock. Thank you
Modified standard hubs??