I would just change for a HX35 on a 1J, more than capable of making 524hp and a decent powerband to go with it. I had a HX40 and was going to run a 14cm housing on it on my 2JZ would of been pretty responsive and still capable of 600hp. Awesome build though
Ok thanks sparky I was thinking about something like a hx40 super but maybe a little bigger I want 700hp with more left to push if the full boost is 1000-2000 rpm earlier its perfect for me. Skickat från min SM-G935F via Tapatalk
I'd go the 16cm, a better size for the mix of response and outright flow you want by the sounds of it
Why not use a HX35 hot side and HX40/50/52 cold side to make a hybrid turbo and have the minimum lag with maximum amount of intake air?
I'm thinking it might create a lot of backpressure and maybe it's easier to swap cheap hx50 cores if needed in the future but I don't know. Is it hard to make a hybrid? Is it worth it ? Balancing etc ? Skickat från min SM-G935F via Tapatalk
Recap from gatebil Mantorp... The final drive was way of. I think the car feelt like it was doing 140-170 kmh on 2nd gear. I could drift most part of the course in first gear and second was to fast. Spool time was super bad.. the tank was leaking ethanol cus it hadn't been filled up before which put more stress on the seals. One of the engine mounts unscrewed itself. The turbo Ate some metal. Can't find it though. And the bumper took a lap under the car. Also the turbo to manifold gasket burned up to. The intervall for the signal to the steering rack is to long which gives it a choppy feeling, like it turns of sometime. The good part is that I found all these bad things, now I can start fixing it. The chassi is super grippy compared to my old soarer. It feels like a really solid car to drive. And I think with some small fixes it will be in rubbing bumper business Skickat från min SM-G935F via Tapatalk
Got some lock Took out turbo etc. A little damage to the compressor. During gatebil one of the hockey puck mounts unscrewed itself. Which lead to a lot of stress on the other one that in turn let the engine to turn. This has led to the oil pan getting smashed to the crossmember. :/ Skickat från min SM-G935F via Tapatalk
About pic 2, you know that a turbo can be clocked (rotated), right? If you've done it already, just ignore me. And if I were you, I would consider a turbo hanger for such a massive turbo, it will spare you the headaches with the manifold cracking and coming loose in the long run...
Yeah I know it can be turned but thanks but it will go into the strut tower then so solution would be to weld an 90deg turn to it yeah that's true. Think it's time for that. Cus it's loosening itself from the manifold all the time. And I know if it gets really hot it will mean more money any recommendations in bars to weld in there. Skickat från min SM-G935F via Tapatalk
It's a fixed rate. Linear. It's actually a copy of an aeromotive of aliexpress so super cheap. My friend is running one in his 2jz with bigger power but we ported his cus it was some problem with the ball inside regulating the flow. Mine didn't have that problem. When we tuned my car we saw that my fuel delivery started to drop. But I think It's related to the stock feed Lines or fuel filter. So I'm pretty happy with it Skickat från min SM-G935F via Tapatalk
Yeah I know it can be turned but thanks but it will go into the strut tower then so solution would be to weld an 90deg turn to it yeah that's true. Think it's time for that. Cus it's loosening itself from the manifold all the time. And I know if it gets really hot it will mean more money any recommendations in bars to weld in there. Skickat från min SM-G935F via Tapatalk[/QUOTE] If you just google images for "turbo hanger" you'll get plenty of ideas, just keep in mind that it only has to be attached to the engine, not the body of the car.
100% against engine NOT the manifold- the whole point of it is to take the turbo weight off the manifold . Check this out: http://www.309thundersaloon.com/communities/8/004/010/459/928/images/4569390016.swf
