SR20 Apexi PFC vs Link G4

Thread in 'Technical Questions' started by captain_chaos, Nov 12, 2019.

  1. captain_chaos

    captain_chaos Member

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    I'm back again with more stupid questions :D

    I may have a possibility to buy a Link G4 plug and play ECU for my SR20 but I'm in two minds.

    Mainly because it would involve selling my SR20 Power FC D-jetro and then having to add more money towards the Link (which could ideally be used in the build elsewhere)

    My setup will be 8.5CR 86.5mm forged pistons, forged rods. fully balanced bottom end, polished head ports, 1.2mm Tomei head gasket, HKS step 2 cams, 740cc injectors uprated BC valve springs, guides and retainers, Greddy TD0620G, Mazworxs topmount t3 manifold and downpipe and a 44mm gate when I buy one. Oh and a lightweight flyhweel and Comp Clutch stage 5

    I want to aim for around 400bhp but will sacrifice power for response.

    I have searched around the forums for any info but nobody seems to give a good reason for going Link. I know link is more advanced and better for fine tunning and has more functions but will an old faithful Power FC not do that? They have been running majority SRs for many years now.

    Please help :D
     
  2. BenRice

    BenRice Well-Known Member

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    You're correct, a main benefit for the Link is the added resolution for tuning

    If it was a basic T28/1bar/740s/Poncams setup i would say stay PFC, but considering the engine build is more involved then the other bonus of safety features on the Link comes into play

    The Link has a tonne of safety cuts you can program in. Oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, a/f (if you add a wideband) etc etc. All designed to help save the engines from any ancillary failures. That's where you start to see the R&D difference between the two and when you've invested so much time & money in the long block you want to give it the best possible chance of survival. The Link software is also very easy to use for setting things like electric fans and rpm limits

    Yes you lose a little bit of the "JDM" factor of the PFC hand controller. I know it sounds silly, but it's a valid point. However the Link has the ability to run a digital dash / tablet if you're so inclined, so a slightly different flex is on the cards.

    The only thing I'd say is get whoever tunes it to change the stock limiter. Stock Link limiter's sound awful but can be redone easily

    If I was you, I'd do it
     
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  3. captain_chaos

    captain_chaos Member

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    Hey dude, thanks for explaining it a bit more. And to be fair its a very valid point. I really want this engine to survive. Main issue I'm obviously having is the funds for all the extra gear but when I look at it that way, I better get the Link and make sure its a safe map.
     
  4. tomsheen

    tomsheen Active Member

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    I’m in the same position as you and the only reason I’m not buying link yet is because my engine is completely standard and I’m in the mind set of it if it blows I’ll forge it and then get the link with all its fancy engine protection stuff for the “good engine”.
     
  5. captain_chaos

    captain_chaos Member

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    Yea, see, I'm already at the fully forged and balanced stage now so want it to last a little bit before it goes bang
     
  6. tomsheen

    tomsheen Active Member

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    Yup that’s my point if I was in your position I wouldn’t skimp on the engine management
     
  7. captain_chaos

    captain_chaos Member

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    To be fair I didnt realise how basic Power FC units were. I know loads of big power cars ran them but when I see how basic they are with regards to safety features, makes my arse twitch a bit
     
  8. tomsheen

    tomsheen Active Member

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    Ya they’re just old technology that’s the problem. Same as anything was once state of the art but now very basic
     
  9. BenRice

    BenRice Well-Known Member

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    For basic setups they're still fine. I've been running a PFC for ~6 years now, but it's not a crazy setup (RB25, 2871, 1 bar, 550s)

    They still have their place tbh
     
  10. captain_chaos

    captain_chaos Member

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    See, that's why I was thinking I could get away running a PFC on mine because I will not be chasing anything above 400hp at the crank. It had 300 with an HDev stage 2 chip and it was plenty to party but got to a point where I felt like I could use more power and all of it.

    I wont be running any more than 1.2 bar through it and it's not a very aggressive setup. My main target is response and reliability. Only reason it got forged was because the bores were a bit on the limit for a rebore and since I was doing all that work, be daft not to forge it now instead of having to strip the motor down again later. Just ideally I could have used the money else where ideally to get this car finally back up and running again
     
  11. r3k1355

    r3k1355 Well-Known Member

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    If you're chasing response is a TD06 really the best choice, bit old hat now?

    I appreciate buying a flash new turbo probably isn't exactly what you want though.
     
  12. captain_chaos

    captain_chaos Member

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    I've seen decent results with them and would be quite happy even for the time being. My unit is a genuine greddy td06 20g with an 8cm housing and only cost 300 quid......unfortunately couldnt afford a fancy ass new Garrett or borg unit :(

    May change to something else further down the line. I've done everything else I could with the engine to help the spool. Polished all the head ports, good manifold and down pipe and a 1.2mm HG.....hopefully makes for a half decent setup
     
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  13. BenRice

    BenRice Well-Known Member

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    Putting money into a bottom end build and then trying to "get away with" something isn't a great recipe tbh. I only gave my example because my long block is 100% stock & unopened so zero investment in it. Yes the PFC can run that setup no problem, but the Link gives you way more insurance on your investment.

    Up to you though. Like any aftermarket ECU it will be down to how the tuner sets it up. Mine just came off the dyno on Friday (annual check up) and the tuner noticed a bit of knock up top so adjusted accordingly. Dyno tuning should never be a "one & done" experience
     
  14. captain_chaos

    captain_chaos Member

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    Yea, I totally get what you mean dude and I decided to spend that bit more and go for the Link ECU now.
     
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