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Thread in 'Project Cars and Builds Threads' started by retro-ed, Sep 14, 2011.
badass, if that works im soo going to copy you.
hey,, at least im honest!
I'm still baffled but intrigued by this. Does it just throw compressed air pre turbo on shut off?
Pretty much Imagine the principal of a recirc dump valve but instead of dumping into the air inlet again, you dump it into the exhaust manifold/turbine. The mixture in the manifold is hot and rich when you snap off the throttle so when the air is added, it should allow the mixture to burn, allowing the turbo to carry on spinning.
At this stage it is not full on anti lag but more of a mild lag reduction device. It won't lower the boost threshold but should improve the transient response by making the turbo more efficient.
This is how I will be running the car untill the end of the year. I am still using the OEM ecu and std tune.
The next (and exciting) stage is all in the mapping.. With the above setup working, by tweaking the over run fueling and retarding the ignition, it will would allow proper anti lag. This will have to wait for a while until I have chosen what to do about management but at least all the hardware is now there.
Does it not interfere with the wastegate pressures at all?
It doesn't operate on throttle, so no.
That's the simplest explanation I've read on SAS, nice. Will definitely be interesting to see what effect you get without tinkering with the tune etc.
Can't wait to see this
Considering BOVs confuse the AFM and make them run rich on the overrun, this setup should do the same, and should work pretty effectively on the stock tune, even though you're not retarding the ign etc.
Never tried that, only ever ran proper ALS setups, but it's something that I've had in my head for years that I think could/should work.
what top mounts do you use?
They are just the cheapo Rally design steel eccentrics
After Birmingham RDC there were a big list of broken bits.. the main ones were:
-Big coolant leak under inlet manifold
-Crack in exhaust manifold
-Smashed in 1/4 panel
First job was to fix the annoying water leak. It turned out the gay water pipe between the block and cooler had split Inlet etc all stripped off and the pipe was replaced.
Next job was the exhaust manifold. I caught the downpipe on the trailer which twisted the whole setup. I think this combined with the abuse it got contributed to the cracking. The turbo setup was all removed to inspect the manifold...
Nice big crack around the joint between Cyl 1 and 4..
Once it was welded up, it was then the perfect opportunity to make a start on the home made anti lag setup. It is a fairly basic setup that is similar to the Audi "Umluft" system from the group B days, then late escort cossie WRC, then more recently Celica GT4s and Evos.
The basic principle is to dump the charged air directly into the exhaust manifold whenever there is vacuum in the inlet manifold. With mapping this can become full on anti lag with the addition of fuel and ignition retard.
At first I will be running it as a purely mechanical system so the results will be interesting. The plan is to do something for the management over the winter to utilise it's full potential.
The main job was to modify the manifold to supply the additional air. The manifold was all mocked up on a scrap engine.
A little bit of support added to brace the turbo flange back to the block
The final Frankenstein manifold. This will be re-created over the winter in steam pipe with EGT bosses etc ready for full ALS abuse
The intercooler pipe was modified to provide the feed..
Next job was to get it on the car!
Got the manifold on..
I had previously popped the gasket between the turbo and the intercooler pipe. I bodged it for the last round which seemed to work. Something interesting popped up at work regarding bonded components. That got me thinking so I borrowed some of the hard core glue and gave it a go...
Be interesting to see how it holds up!
Got a new gasket from Mitsubishi for the air valve then bolted that on..
Which clears everything nicely
Tucked away nicely....
Got it all bolted back together and tentatively fired it up. I warmed it up and with it just on axle stands (so you cant really build much boost or big vacuum) it did this..
This is just blipping it between 2000rpm to 4000rpm. I can't wait to see what happens when it is on it's wheels! It might just work
Next up is to try and bash the rear 1/4 out enough so I can fit a rear light and close the boot. Then all I have to do is whack a number plate on and take it for a spin.
Hopefully it does something noticable even at current setup. I mean, technically the AFM should be fooled in to overfuelling same as with a dump valve, so?
Without a turbo rpm sensor or pre-throttle boost gauge, it will be hard to tell aside from seat of the pants, but it's a base for a full on setup in the future!
if this works im doing it too
When you did the exhaust joins, did you flare the piping or just use a slightly different diameter? And the springs are just normal swivel jobbies? They do look miles better than clamps.
you can get 'exhaust expanders' for making the slip joints.
very cool, development in this car is awesome
RE the pipe; I have an expander but i didnt work very well on the 3" stainless. In the end I used some slightly bigger tube to make the slip joint. The springs are motorbike side stand springs as I had some to hand. They make getting the exhaust off very easy and allow a certain amount of flex. I haven't had a problem with them yet.
I got the 1/4 bashed out enough to get a rear light in it last night so it should be back on the road tommorow. Looking forward to seeing what happens!
Top stuff, cheers for the info.
Mental little car mate, good work
After getting the manifold all back on and repairing the water leak, the next thing to do was to get it back in a state where it could be used on the road again. The RH rear ¼ has taken a lot of hits over the past couple of years and the last two RDC events saw it take the biggest hits.
The plan is to do a full repair and paint at the start of next year but in the mean time, I just need it presentable enough to use at round 5 and Matsuri….
Que some very pikey repairs using nothing but a scissor jack, a big hammer, a sledge hammer, a welder and a grinder… oh and some yellow tape
The rear light aperture was pretty mangled and the whole ¼ was pushed over, jammed against the fuel tank. I ripped out all the fuel bits, cut out the light mounts and started hitting it with a hammer..
With the sledge hammer and blocks of wood it was possible to get the boot shut gaps near enough..
A bit of etch primer to hold back any rust..
Then lots of yellow tape was added. I also re-fitted the window and straightened the rear bumper out. Good as new hahaha…..
The next day I took it to work.. The homemade ALS is pretty funny! It seems marginally more responsive (needs more road miles to properly test it) but the pops and bangs are very amusing.. As it is on the standard map, the bangs are inconsistent across the rev range when you simply lift off the throttle (at 6000+ nothing really but at 5000rpm it sounds like a bomb going off. At 3500 rpm it is like gunshots). The best thing is when you are coming down fast through the gears, heel and toeing.. this is when you get the machine gun noise. I can’t wait to get some more miles on it and see what can be achieved, so far it is worth it for the comedy explosions!
Next up was a visit to the rolling road to see what the frankenstien setup was doing..