I dont really want to hijak the thread so I will keep the reply short. If you do a search on here there is a KP Starlet with one here is a pic and Ive seen a couple of other cars done Notice the head no cam sensor the distributor is at the back. If people can convert Vauxhall red tops and ford Zetech to RWD why not the Pulsar??? Anything is possible with a little bit of work Im surprised more people havnt done it the block is stronger plus the Pulsar engine has oil squirters to cool the piston skirts.
I love this car. I loved it with a 4AGE and now its even better. I bet it gives your M3 a good run for its money. If you find a setup that gives you traction i cant see the diff lasting long though, and if the diff can take it the shafts will have a hissyfit. Could you not find a 3.54 diff for longer gearing? SR's are nice and torquey so id want longer gears, on a standard turbo theyre a bit useless over 6500rpm, which i guess you spend a lot of time around haha. Are you going to take the engine any further? Straker, how do you know thats not just a pulsar head with the ITB's? People fit the ITB's to S bodies so why not the head too? Ive never know the SR block to be a weakness either so i dont see what different strength makes. Im a bit confused why youd go through the effort to fit a transverse layout engine when longitudanally (sp?) setup engine, with box etc is so readily available? Also, i hope your going mega wide arch on that 105e, cause theyre skinny ass cars and a pulsar axle will be huge. If your going through the effort of fitting a new axle id fully expect an S body back end to be much stronger.
Straker, how do you know thats not just a pulsar head with the ITB's? People fit the ITB's to S bodies so why not the head too? There is a thread on the build of that Starlet its a full Pulsar engine. Ive never know the SR block to be a weakness either so i dont see what different strength makes. Its just a fact the Pulsar block is stronger Im not fitting it due to any particular weakness. Im a bit confused why youd go through the effort to fit a transverse layout engine when longitudanally (sp?) setup engine, with box etc is so readily available? I have two engines left over from when I used to have a Pulsar track car :-) including looms ECU's etc etc. So its pretty much just a case of turning the engine round the other way. The s14 box fits just need to make sure you fit a spigot bearing and the engine mount drillings / fixings are all on the block externally the block is very similar. Also, i hope your going mega wide arch on that 105e, cause theyre skinny ass cars and a pulsar axle will be huge. If your going through the effort of fitting a new axle id fully expect an S body back end to be much stronger.[/QUOTE] The pulsar axle track works out 4" wider so not a lot in it 2" wider each side Im hoping not to fit arches. Im not sure what width an S body one is Id also doubt the S body rear end is any stronger being as the Pulsar was built as a rally car. Again I have two complete axles and 4 diffs left over so the bulk of the parts arnt going to cost me anything.
What a build, love an old ford just bait on the deafened for a rolling shell ATM. Bet it's a right handful :-)
Thanks for the comments guys If anyone is on facebook, feel free to stick a vote on it for me.... Can't have a Vauxhall engined escort winning Vote hereVVV Welcome to Facebook
Ed somebody took a poo in your engine bay. Seriously though, where's the hooligan videos? I want to see police chases and jumps
^^ Don't worry Topi lad, It still gets massive abuse. When are you coming back to do tandem jumps and police chases? Over the Christmas break, the car has had a little bit of use. Starting to get used to the power delivery now and can't wait to give it a crack on a proper drift day... To improve the front end stability under braking, I have converted the front end to tension struts. This removes the std ARB rubber mounts and fixings, the replaces it with two rose jointed tension rods, and a separate ARB. Fitted it all today but still need to mod the lower arms to mount the ARB droplinks. Off with the old ARB and anti dive kit.. Tension strut kit.. From above.. A bit more clearance around the sump now than it had before. From below.. Still need to mount the drop links for the ARB. They are supposed to mount to the tenion strut where it joins the lower arm but if I do that it clouts on the steering arm. When I get chance I will pop the arms off and weld on some brackets. A random picture.. Just trying to decide what to do about the brakes at the mo. Tempted to get some mega pads (CL or DS2500s) for the std calipers and see how I get on, then save up for some 4 pots in the future.
Nice one maaan! Pro shop now, wheel dollies and everything! I'll be back sometime this year for police chases etc if everything goes well.
Go with the pads mate, unless you get some callipers with massive pads it's not worth changing them, plus you don't want discs so big you can't fit 13s on!
We are just about to undertake a SR straightcam in a ratty 4 door we have for a bit of drifting. Have you still fitted fans?
quality work there mate, loving the rear arb setup. the tension strut kit is an excellent mod, also makes castor adjustment so easy. you shuld think about fitting a heated screen, they clear when fogged up in no time.
