Stateside RB e36

Thread in 'Project Cars and Builds Threads' started by BrandonRoche, Aug 11, 2015.

  1. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    Well.. Hello Driftworks, my name is Brandon (if you can't tell by my username), I'm 20, living in southern NH in the U.S., working full time and going to school full time. First post but will have many more hopefully!!

    I've had an e36 (98 328i) for around 2 years now and wasn't always sure what I wanted to do with it. I pondered different swaps for more power, possibly even just turbo or supercharge the stock engine, but knew that since it was my only car, I couldn't have it down for long, and I needed it to be reliable. I've always enjoyed drifting (whether it be spectating or participating) and after going to some local events I decided it was what I wanted to do.

    This thread is going to be very picture and update heavy, I spend a lot of my time in the garage working on this car and I'm using this thread as kind of a way for me to keep track of it all and have a story behind it. I have also been trying my hardest to take pictures of everything along the way. It helps me to keep track of stuff and have references so I can plan different ideas when I am not near the car, but ADHD hits, I get sucked into something, and forget pictures often.

    6/23/15
    Onward to the build/car... I picked up a 92 325i roller locally for $200 and I'm building it into a drift car. I was originally going to be sliding my 328, but being responsible about not drifting my daily hit and I bought this. A lot of the parts will be moved over from my daily as it is turned back to "stock". Hoping to be sliding around October this year and if not December.

    Plans are pretty much a stock s1 rb25det swap for now. FF manifold, and an MBC to get rid of the 5-7psi jump after 5k from the stock boost solenoid. Over the winter going to haltech and actually building it up.

    So the day I bought it, brought it home, washed it kinda

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    Then cleaned the interior out a bit, later stripped out the sound deadening and glue. Sanding the floor and reprinting it a lighter color to keep it slightly cooler hopefully

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    Found some rust and repaired it, yeah they are opposite sides I only took these pictures

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    My daily with the dunce cap and the other one in the background

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    And I ordered and SLR kit for the white car originally... But it took a while to come in so it ended up just going on the black car, have to adjust the wheel position back, and get my new tophats in, also need to raise it. Hitting inside the wheel wells before full lock so need smaller tires and lower offset wheels. These wheels are not staying and will probably be sold soon. I'm not a fan of them at all.

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    This is with a 20mm spacers

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    #1 BrandonRoche, Aug 11, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2016
  2. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    7/12/15

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    Sanded the some bay down and removed all the brackets. Primed in a few areas, but it's all getting sanded back down and painted GM cranberry red (most likely the color for the car too)

    I ended up ordered the mounts and oil pan from Dryden Motorsports or CJ Fab (not sure what they call themselves?). They will be like 3 weeks or so until they get here. Engine/trans/etc is all in shipping and should hopefully be here next week. I am just working on finishing up the engine bay, remaking the brake line, mounting my hydro and prop valve. I won't be doing any of the chassis wiring until the engine is in and runs.

    My intake manifold came in!
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  3. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    7/21/15

    Well... ITS HERE!

    Could have come in a better skid but I fixed that before I brought it home...
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    Got it home and it's on the stand now... Just waiting on my mounts and order from FR sport. Need a few things here and there but so far LSwan has been great!

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    I'm excited to say the least... Engine turns over, feels the it compresses good but haven't had any true time to test it.. Transmission shifts into all gears and spins. Downpipe looks like it won't be hard to make at all either. A friend of mine will be able to tig me up something nice!

    Also I didn't feel like making another post for this so..

    I also cleaned up the master. Now this car is supposed to have 88k on it, but it hasn't been registered in 2ish years and has not cluster. So I guess I'll see when I got to register it was they say. The brake fluid that came out was far from pretty... It was some of the worst I've seen actually, but this is the master

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    It ended up coming out almost perfect... Then I realized I'll most likely be running a Wilwood master and a chase bays booster delete... So it was a giant waste of time lol
     
  4. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    7/27/15

    Small update kinda, mostly waiting on parts to come to clean up, re gasket, and prep the engine to go in. Mount kit is being started this week, 2-3 weeks to make and 2-3 days shipping. Hoping for the shorter wait, but no major rush.

    I got all the stock inlet piping off to get a batter look at the snail underneath it. It's an s1 turbo still so YAY! Steel compressor wheels... But not sure if I'll be running this turbo, I'll get to that in a second.
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    Test fit my FF manifold to see how it looked, WAY better than the stock crossover mess, and helps me to simplify the VAC and coolant lines
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    Turbo, well, seems to be blown. Shaft is almost perfect. No play up down or side to side, and very, and I'm saying VERY slight play in and out, enough that I wouldn't call it a concern. But, I took it off, turned it upside down, and poured probably a cup of oil out of the compressor housing, and maybe a tablespoon out of the turbine housing. Maybe the PO had some weird fetish and liked to pour oil into his turbo, I don't judge, or maybe it got it in there during shipping somehow. I just haven't gotten around to checking more into it.
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    Thermostat pocket in the block looks like one of the better RB ones I've seen. Nothing was removed other than coolant for this picture. So still having the stock black coating is amazing. The pieces there are from the water inlet on the stock manifold that rusted away.
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    Inlet pipe for reference
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    Pictures of the FF manifold being put together.. My 90->58mm TB adapter is 2 weeks back ordered from Greddy so that will here pretty much last.
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    I sandblasted and recoated the stock manifold
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    Some pictures of how the engine currently sits.
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    And... My father and I got a TIG, never done it before, but hoping to learn.. I was out of MIG gas anyways and who can afford that? Might as well just buy a TIG at that point
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  5. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    7/31/15

    So it's been really hot and humid, for NH and I that is, and I haven't gotten much done due to the fact that heat and I don't mix well. (I find winter with the garage heat on is the best time to work on cars, 30* outside, 50-60* inside, T-shirt and shorts), but a short update and to address something before it gets asked or assumed!

    So first of all I got the head off to see what I was dealing with for an engine, overall, I am very pleased with what I bought. I got a killer deal on the engine/tranny/ECU/ and wiring as it was, plus the customer service LSwan has has been outstanding with any small issues I have had here and there.

    The Head:
    There was very little golding or sludge in the head. Some near the back of the intake cam as you can see, I blame it mostly on the crankcase ventilation issues I address below. Cams have heat marks where they were contacting the lifters, but no grooves/scouring on them or in the trays. And I didn't snap my cam in half! WHOOP RB WIN!

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    The Block:
    Carbon buildup was a lot on the pistons, not HUGE carbon lip, I've seen worse, but I've also seen way better. I should be able to clean most of it out. All crosshatching is still there with no up/down scouring in the cylinders at all. One spot in cylinder 5 that I'm most likely just overthinking has a couple small blotches of brown visible when the piston near the bottom of the stroke, smooth though and should clean up. I am blaming the carbon on blown turbo for the most part, causing oil into the intake as well as running rich when trying to boost. I'm sure part of the reason was this was most likely a commuter car too, so not many high revving situations.

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    Also got a lot of my parts in, gasket kit isn't in the picture, I forgot it on the counter lol

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    I was kinda snooping around the Facebook page of the company I bought my engine from (LSwan if you haven't figure that out, so far, 100% recommend them) and I happen to find the video of my engine running in April when they got it and pulled it. 72k kilometers, here's the video:




    Technical section:
    Now onto addressing the questions most have before they get asked, even if people don't ask them, it's good to have an idea of what RBs are about lol. When people think of RB series engines, they most likely think of skylines, jdm AF yo, or GODZIRRRAAAAA!! But, many also think boom bang boom due to oiling issues. So this is my plan for the oiling issues of the RB and explain, to my best understanding of oiling an engine, how it all works. I have read a lot so obviously these theories and ideas are not all mine but here it goes.

    First off, stock 6900 redline/limiter, stock RB oil pump, shock short nose crank, stock oil restricters, stock oil drains. The sump I am getting is a 5 quart (same as stock capacity) rear sump similar to what the e36 has. I might extend it toward the passenger side for an extra quart and rebaffle to suit, we will see. I am then blocking off the PCV valve, and running both intake vents to a baffled catch can the stock way, which is intake -> exhaust then from exhaust -> can (stock in turbo inlet). Then I will tap the oil pan on the intake side and run a vent from there up to the catch can. This should equalize pressure in the engine. Then from the catch can, run a line to the turbo inlet as the constant vacuum source. I will be using an external 15 row oil cooler and removing the factory one, which will add capacity as well as get rid of the stock water->oil cooler. I may end up with an Accusump, and when I say may, I mean I'm still looking into it but I am leaning towards it. There seems to be a general consensus that LS series engines have oil issues too, and no oil by the pickup = loss in pressure which is a no no. A lot of them either go dry sump, which isn't very reasonable for me, or some sort of oil accumulator most with Accusump and some with Morso. This would solve the issue of too much oil staying in the head if for some reason my ventilation system fails or doesn't work as well as I plan it to, and the pickup goes dry for a hair of a second. The Accusump would just take over to sustain oil pressure until the sump refills and if also adds overall capacity.

    While this is probably a very uncommon setup for the RB, my theory, and others, works like this. The reason for the black sludgy mess in the back of the intake cam is due to the single oil drain on that side. There are two on the exhaust side, and with the engine being tilted that way, as well as the downward stroke of the pistons the oil gets drained adequately. The intake has the issue of the crankcase pressure needing somewhere to go when boost is turned up, breathing necessity is increased, and blow by starts to grow. It can't go up the exhaust side easily because of the way to oil sits in an RB pan with crank rotation etc., so it's only route is up the intake side drain. This creates oil buildup in the head -> less in the sump -> oil pump can go dry.

    The stock hydraulic lifters need oil. Otherwise, they fail, it's "accepted" by Tomei as well as others that restrictors won't cause any issues, but if they have the occasional issues with the stock amount of oil, why would pumping less up there be acceptable?

    The stock oil pump due to its thicker gears over the N1 pump, and no need for a Tomei/Nismo/JUN yet. It can handle the stock limiter, the event I plan to go to most often in NH is a very small course where sustained high RPMs aren't really heard of. So for now, the less chance I have of shattering my oil pump gear and ruining my motor the better. I'll take a #6 rod bearing over an entirely new engine any day.

    Drains I see no need for enlarging as they seem to be working fine on the exhaust side and the only issue, with my assumed theory is the intake side not draining efficiently due to crankcase pressure having that as the only route to escape.

    Extra quart would to be on the safe side of things if I feel I need it.

    In the future when I get a spare bottom end, I will install a JUN crank collar or have one made an a local machine shop. JUN oil pump, solid lifters so restrictors can be implemented, etc. but I want to drift, not spend a year or more building a motor and not being able to slide at all. Also I'm in school, priorities are priorities, and that comes first so I can get a good enough job to afford what I want to do, which means I can only work as much as I can so money can get tight and I order things paycheck to paycheck. I am a Politics in Society major at UNH if anyone was wondering lol.

    End Technical section.

    A lot of people ask why I don't just go with a BMW motor as they are flawless in every way shape and form, are stock in the car, for easily, and never have issues. EVEN NISSAN PEOPLE RECOMMEND THIS OCCASIONALLY!! But, I seem to think people overlook the cost portion of BMW engines, while it may have come stock, it may not be the cheapest thing to make power out of down the road. Also, BMWs have oiling issues with the baffles, they have cooling issues around cylinder 6 and even with a lot of money and maintenance into the cooling system you (maybe it's just my luck with my e36?) can never be 100% sure that you won't have an issue with it. Then comes the fittings blowing off, the clearance issues, etc.. It may be worth it to some, but with my luck that I have had, I don't foresee an m/s5x sticking together either.

    I'm also a Nissan fanboy (f*ckboi if you will) and I love the sound, look, and feel of an RB and this is a swap I have always thought about but never put into action. So here we are lol

    Sorry for the long post, here's a picture of my cat and I:
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    EDIT:
    If anyone has any opinions the my oiling theory, or questions on anything let me know. My dad seems to have slightly different views than I do on the whole thing.
     
    #5 BrandonRoche, Aug 11, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 6, 2017
  6. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    8/7/15

    I haven't really touched the physical car since I primed the bay... I've been waiting on my mounts so I can get the engine in the bay so I know where I need to weld and make brackets for various items. I'm going to try to run a ka24 koyo r radiator, so I have to make all the mounts up for that too.

    The mount kit is being finished this week, and probably shipped out next week meaning I'll have it later next week, or the week after. Chris is a really cool guy and has been helpful and willing to go the extra mile to get some stuff even if it's hard to find. He sent me this of my brackets being made:

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    I used a yellow 3m roloc bristle disc to clean the block surface off. It was tilted at an angle upside down so most of the stuff fell to the ground or on me lol. The momentarily went over it with a red scotchbrite pad with a vacuum going to clean the swirls. Yes I know, scotchbrite will be the death of all engines blah blah blah. I believe it, but I've also done HG on 4 cars before this with scotchbrites and a vacuum with no issues except one that broke a wrist pin in half (completely unrelated to the aluminum oxide). And that was without even using the roloc discs. So I think my 10-20 passes won't cause any harm. If it does, oh well, live and learn.

    I cleaned, scuffed, taped, and painted my block, I was thinking about just going black, but I want to be able to see leaks and shit easily before they coat the engine or become a problem. So I went with Duplicolor cast iron, and for the amount of effort I put into it, it came out pretty good in my opinion. Some people online were talking about 3-4 day prep they were doing... Which I found way overboard and then some of them still messed up the actually painting part lol. I spent about 2 hours on this before painting it tops.

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    Then I decided to take some time and clean the tranny, the clutch was slipped to death and the bell housing was full of it. Still have to clean the back of the block off, but I can do that once it's off the stand:

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    The head came back from the machine shop Wednesday, so I threw my head studs in and got the head torqued down. Threw the lifters and cams back in as well, then put the back timing cover and cam gears/VCT on. Rb25 VCT is WAY easier to rebuild than vanos lol. Timed the engine up to where it was supposed to be, just no belt yet, still have to change the water pump and oil pump.

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    And my little engine bag

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  7. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    Current day (took the picture last night)

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    Currently I am waiting on my intake manifold socket screws, which should be here today, 5 exhaust manifold studs, half moons, and new boots/spacers for the valve covers. My mount kit is all done and should be shipped before the weeks end. I'm very excited for this build and to start sliding ASAP. I've used this forum a lot to answer questions of mine and I am hoping to continue tiger helpful info as well as provide it on this rarely ventured swap!

    That's all for now... Might have an update later today after the intake is on!

    Thank you Driftworks!
     
  8. silverzx

    silverzx Member

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    This build looks sick. Good luck with it.
     
  9. Woocash

    Woocash Member

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    You got balls Dude, (many of them hanging on the wall) :p
    On a more serious note, looking good that. Well done on the job so far.
    Good ideas, well executed...FTW
    All best Dude
     
  10. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    Okay small update, well kinda small kinda big. We'll call it medium sized update.

    8/18/15
    This is how it sat:

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    I got off the phone earlier today with customs and my mounts should be here tomorrow or Friday. Then I can throw the engine in to start making all the brackets and supports I need. I still need to fix the subframe before I put the gas tank back in to start it... But it'll at least give me something to do, running the brake lines, making the downpipe, figuring out what to do with the fuel lines, etc.

    I ordered my clutch today and getting my flywheel resurfaced soon. Hopefully then engine will be in this weekend and nothing else gets delayed.

    Depending on how everything looks for clearances in the bay (hoping for ability of a 3" downpipe, even though I only NEED 2.5" for now), I may convert to RHD. I will just have to see once the engine is all in really.

    And a picture of my daily I took this morning, company is moving out of our second warehouse and it will be missed

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    Current

    Mounts came in! I was stoked! As well as both of my other shipments that were late. (2 days for the mounts from AUS, 4.5 weeks for a box from Greddy from Cali, 5 days for a box from FL because it wasn't shipped in time, but oh well it's here!). I left work early since I knew I wanted to get the engine in yesterday, which seemed feasible... Until issue.

    So I go to put the pickup on, and notice that the flange isn't flat, must've happened from welding. Oh well I'll flatten it.

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    Then I go to put the oilpan on to check the fitment before I do anything to the pickup, and the baffles hit the pickup. This is as far at the pan would go down:

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    So I just took all my stuff from Greddy and Raw Brokerage and threw that on. Engine is sealed up now at least (minus the pan of course).

    I talked to Chris (owner of CJ Fab, previously known as Dryden Motorsports), and he has been very VERY good about the situation and in helping me. He said he would refund me any machining costs that may need to be done to flatten the flange out, and he has been walking me through what to do with the pickup/baffle situation. I already knew what needed to be done, but I'd like to hear it from him to make sure it's okay with the design, and it's nice to have a helpful company and not one that just leaves you stranded. So either today or tomorrow I will be slightly bending up the baffles and grinding a small bit away. Then I can actually throw the engine in.

    For shits and giggles to see the rest of the fitment, I threw the subframe and mounts and all together on the stand. Stand was a little saggy to say the least at this point

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    My clutch hasn't shipped yet TMK to I will be calling the company I got it from today. It's a DXD (southbend) stage 2 with a daily PP. it's supposed to hold 400 ft lbs of torque which will be plenty to get me by until I get my twin disc from OS Giken. I really just need the engine in the bay so it's out of the way, and so I can work on the rear suspension and getting all my brackets and such fabbed for my s13 radiator, inter cooler, catch can.

    For the time being, I won't have power steering... Which isn't the best, but isn't the worst. I figured I'll do it pretty much last as there are other things I will have to worry about for now. A friend of mine drifts his e30 with the SLR and no PS, and doesn't mind it at all, but he said he would like it to make steering input easier which I can totally understand.

    Also I will be getting stiffer motor mounts, but the ones with the kit were like $30 USD so I figured I would take them for now, and figure out different ones after.

    Well that's all folks!
     
  11. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    NOW FOR THE BIG UPDATE [emoji2] and [emoji20]

    The [emoji2]

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    And the [emoji20]

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    Also the oil pan was a giant PITA to get on with the baffles interfering with the pickup. So I'll be talking to Chris about all this and trying to get it all sorted out. I have about 2" to go up with the engine so I'm sure I'll figure something out, but for now it's in and out of the way.

    Also made a time lapse of the install and little walk around. Japanese trap music in the background of course... Lol.

    https://youtu.be/pjus0g7rm5s

    That's all folks!
     
  12. jon07043278

    jon07043278 Well-Known Member

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    Nice write up and nice build :thumbs:
     
  13. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    So not much has happened as I've been busy with school starting up and work was killing me for the last week and a half, but small update.

    I finally got around to raising the engine up off the pan. Ended up with about 3/4" more of spacers on the right side, and 3/4" of spacers on the left side to even it out. This was enough to give me a finger sized gap between the pan and steering rack bolt (highest bolt) and lift the mount off the power steering block-off plate. So all I have to do now is CAD up some plates for the mounts and Chris at CJFab said he will make them for me. No pictures for now of the spacers, may update later today however.

    Now that the motor was in the correct spot, I could start to measure and make my downpipe. I feel a HUGE reason people stay away from this swap is the turbo elbow clearance on a LHD car to the steering shaft. It's tight, yes, but with the current engine angle at around 9.2* it has plenty of room for a 3" and probably even a 3.5" turbo elbow if I wanted to get crafty. With a front facing top mount I could probably manage a 4", but no way to tell without seeing it. The factory angle of an RB is around 13", but most swap kits put it at different angles and many say the tilt isn't neccesary to the function. This kit is designed for around 11.2* from my measurement. So 2* it's gunna kill me.

    I am going to order a flaming river U joint and flip the steering shaft around so the small end is up to gain more room than what I already have. I am re routing the water return line from the turbo so that it doesn't interfere with and isn't as close to the elbow.

    I haven't decided if I want a top mount manifold or not yet... I'd like to get it done and over with (that's a while out LOL) at the same time, I'd like to not have to make more than 1 downpipe. We will see how it goes and I'll make the decision sooner rather than later.

    Here is a picture of my downpipe room with the engine in the correct position, be aware the picture makes it look much tighter than it is, I can't get any better angles of it sadly.

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    And this is one at the old position with the water line still in there (see the space I gained). It's the grey line near the top of the picture

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    Thank you! [emoji4]
     
  14. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    Okay so I threw out all the spacers and decided to just redo the mounts my own way by modifying the Dryden kit. I saw three problems with the kit and the way it sat..
    1) engine tilt was off
    2) oil pan hits steering rack/subframe
    3) engine doesn't side parallel to car

    I decided to use hockey pucks so I can get it all set up before I get my aluminum mounts cut. I put 2 pucks on the driver side and a 4" 1/2" bolt and that made it sit very well on that side. I moved over to the passenger side which was the more problematic side. I kinda just threw a bolt up through the hole and lower the engine down a bit and found where to drill my new hole. It would straighten the engine out parallel, tilt it more, and get it lower in the bay while still cleaning the pan. Drilled it. Put 2 pucks and a 4" bolt on that side and tightened it down and it's pretty much perfect. The driver hole needs to be slotted slightly, just to straighten the bolt out for when I get aluminum mounts are cut and installed.

    I gained downpipe room, straightened the engine out to the car, got the oil pan flat, created plenty of clearance, and made stiffer mounts. Still not sure why my kit was so f'd up... But I'll try and work something out the Chris.

    I talked to Massive Lee about the booster delete he sells and he said it is about 3/4" thick, so for now I just out 3/4" of washers on the back of the master and ran bolts through to get a placement idea of it. I'll be ordering that soon too along with a Porsche 944 non-ABS master and reservoir depending on how I lien the pedal.

    The I have a broken radiator from my moms e36 that I used just to get an idea of spacer for a radiator. I knew it would have to be moved forward since the RB engine is loner and sits farther forward in the bay, so I cut my radiator support a bit and ground down the horns on my frame rails and I ended up this this for clearance:

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    I decided on a CSF radiator for an s13. I'll have to make mounts and such, but oh well. Still have to do more measuring to be 100% sure on fitment, but so far it's looking good. I'll be trying to fit a since 16" puller fan, but may go dual 12s if I have to for clearance.

    This is the downpipe room now, if my steering coupler arrives today, which it should* then I will will be able to flip my steering shaft and make my downpipe and install my O2 bung. Pictures don't do it justice but as it sits now I can pretty much go straight back with a 3". It BARELY hits the shaft in the collapsible section so I think once it's flipped it'll be good.

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    *paid for one day shipping on Wednesday at 9am and FCP shipped it Friday morning after lying to me on the phone Thursday saying they would ship it that day, so I'm fighting them on that now..

    Anyways.. Here's pictures of it now

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    Ordered my oil cooler sandwich, oil pressure gauge and sender, oil filter, and oil cooler hose (looping it for now). I have to get my flywheel resurfaced this week, my injectors rebuilt, then wiring and vacuum hoses and it should be good for a first start to see how it runs...

    MUCH EXCITE [emoji7]
     
  15. RB25dan

    RB25dan New Member

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    Such a great build, can't wait to see it finished
     
  16. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    Thank you!

    And I got my downpipe done today, starting on wiring soon:

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  17. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    Okay so the 18th is looking unlikely now.. I have absolutely no time during he week to work on the car, so I spend all day on weekends doing things. Believe it or not, for the amount of people that have swapped these engines into different cars, there is very little wiring info on them that actually tells you how it works. Just says where to hook it up on different cars which isn't useful to me obviously. I THINK I have the wiring finished other than hooking up my constant power, ignition, making my starter relay, and quickly wiring up my alternator charge check wire. I might redo my AAV/o2/VCT power wire because idk if it would work... I've seen 240 people do it do the main ignition coil power but it's a 14 gauge wire and the AAC/o2/VCT power is 18 gauge... I mean it shouldn't melt right? RIGHT? Someone tell me because I have no idea. I can change it to a 14 gauge in the loom up until about 6" from the connectors too if that would be better?

    Okay well here is a picture of how it sat Saturday night:

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    Waiting on my oil cooler so I can hook it up and make my lines, various gaskets, I need a couple vacuum lines, flywheel turned, and then do some more wiring.
     
  18. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    Well I slept on it and I was thinking more about it and finally decided it was time to check and see if my definition of amps was correct, and it wasn't... SO, the wires should be fine how they are. I feel extremely dumb but oh well. I'll just finish up the wiring today after work and before class hopefully. In class I'll try and draw a diagram of how I wired it all, given we won't know if it works yet, but at least it'll be there for now and I'll modify it later if need be.

    Anyways, it made it outside for a short period on Saturday so I could sweep under the car a little. Zero Ackerman is a huge PITA to push around though. [emoji23]

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    Edit:
    Adding this for my future reference:
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  19. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    Well in case anyone was wondering how to wire it in. Here is what I have done so far...

    I added my own labels to some things and I still have a 2 wires I have to check on tomorrow. I'm pretty sure they are just supposed to be taped off as I shaved a lot out of the harness that I didn't need, but hopefully I'll have time tomorrow.

    All the wires for power are being hooked up to a connector. I can show the rest of that wiring after but being a racecar its all custom so it may not help much. The generic diagram will get anyone started I think. I'll add more and edit it as changes come if they do.

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    And here it is in the bay with the full wrapped bay side of the harness

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    Hopefully I have time Wednesday to finish its all that has been on my mind!
     
  20. James.

    James. Member

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    Awesome! Loving the detailed pics of how things were done, makes me scan ebay for an RB lump... :smash:
     

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