Stateside RB e36

Thread in 'Project Cars and Builds Threads' started by BrandonRoche, Aug 11, 2015.

  1. Martt

    Martt Member

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    Looks good, I thought there was no fucking way you were going to get that dump past your steering column haha.

    Can't you run your injector harness underneath your plenum? And also you're not leaving that vac line across the rocker covers are you?
     
  2. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    Thank you! I'm trying to make it as straightforward as possible and answer any questions anyone may have about anything i am doing. I want to be informative on the swap, as currently, there isn't much info out there haha. And more RBs the better

    Again thank you!

    I honestly felt the same way and even started looking at top mounts, but after a few hours with a 3" 180* exhaust pipe, cutoff wheel, and a welder, I had a full 3" pipe in there without too extreme of a bend! Only issue with the 3" is the stock flange can't accept a full 3" because of the bolts, so I had to indent it in the areas, but it goes to 3" very quickly. I also ported the flange slightly to get a little more room. I'll be also cutting off the wastegate flat spot and installing a section of 1.5" pipe merged into the 3" flushly so the wastegate can wastegate more efficiently. I'll try and get more pictures of my final downpipe once I get around to making it. But I actually dislike metal work and fab (I chose the right engine swap right?). So it'll be pushed back until after I get it to start.

    Yes to the injector harness, i just didn't care to tuck it until I unwrapped and rewrapped it how I want it. I don't like the way that nissan wrapped it. I'll try and get to that on friday or saturday, but I have to make my oil cooler lines and mounts and finish my cabin side of my harness up while it's still fresh on my mind.

    And hell no lol, I haven't decided how to route it yet, but definitely not there, I just wanted to plug the holes up to avoid dust and such from falling in and I'll need the intake side plugged at least when i start it soon. I don't have a gas tank in (need to finish the welding of my rear suspension, and again, I hate metal work) so it will be running off of a pump hooked up to a gas jug, no intercooler, no MAF, nor radiator. Just to get it started to make sure it doesn't knock, or blow by excessively, etc. Only gauge will be oil pressure (the only one that matters on an RB HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA)

    I don't have much to do to get to that point, but weekdays I work all day and school all night, maybe an hour to touch the car a day during the week depending on my homework assignments, etc. I have a lot of stuff piling up, just not a ton of time. This weekend I'm hoping to have it all in. I still need my flywheel turned and to buy oil, and I know I'll end up needing a ton of smaller things I'm probably forgetting about, but I think I have the majority of them taken care of or at least sitting on the cart ready to be taken care of. I'll try and make an update saturday night East Coast US time if I get what I want done.
     
  3. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    Okay well first I wasn't happy 100% with the wrap on the engine harness. So I bought some techflex wrap around harness wrap and started to put that on.. Only to realize I only had 5 black zip ties (lol), so I only have a bit of it done, but here is the harness.

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    I finished up the inside of the interior side and put it on plugs so I just have to hook up 5 wires and I'll have full power to the engine and ECU. Only thing left is the alternator and starter wiring. Then the ground cable, I have it mocked up but I can't solder the wires up because of how thick they are.

    Next up I got to borrow a radiator from a friend of mine with a RHD rb25 swapped s13 (@thatrhd240 on Instagram). Mocked up the main bar:

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    Then welded it up the rest of the way and threw the radiator in for a test fit:

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    Definitely very solid. I'm getting use to welding again so the welds are not the prettiest, so I'll clean them up. But it's not lien these will really be seen. The lowest point sits about 1/4" higher off the ground than the subframe. I'll be bracing it back to right in front of the front swaybar brackets. That way it won't bend if it hits anything, and the radiator will be protected.

    Need my intercooler so I can make my mounts for my oil cooler, so that's on hold.

    My buddy got new wheels so I figured I'd test fit them:

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    They fit well, have a 20mm spacer on too.

    Interior picture:

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    ECU mount:

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    Just a random picture with the hood closed:

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    And my cat SPLORIN'
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  4. Mr A

    Mr A New Member

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    Looking good!

    I like the combo. German steel and Japanese muscle :D
     
  5. Michael7s

    Michael7s Member

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    have you not considered fitting turbo to that m50b25? you could get over 400bhp with that steel engine block
     
  6. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    Thank you! It's a long way out at the same time it's getting closer and closer [emoji16]

    Never thought about it, never wanted to. The car didn't come with an engine and I have never had good luck with keeping a m5x cool. I addressed that in a different post. I'm sure everyone is going to say OMG you could have made tons of power with the BMW engine blah blah blah, but I have no interest in doing that.

    And no much of an update but... I cleaned up the headlights and threw them on so I could see what I had for room for the intake an IC piping. Going to h2o soon and this is being put on hold until I get back. Might do some more wiring but not much.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    Okay so I haven't really done anything other than open the hood and find a position for my fuse panel. H2o was great and I had an amazing time even with the rain. I met some really cool people and can't wait until next year... Who knows maybe this car will make the trip?

    I am kind of on a hold right now and don't know if I'll be making any progress in the next couple weeks. I'm considering getting a new daily and parting out my white e36. As much as I LOVE driving the car, I don't need two race cars and the list of stuff that needs to be fixed on the white car seems to grow every time I look at it... Looking at the mk6 Jetta TDIs now, so instead of buying parts I'm planning on paying off all my credit and getting a loan. The time to buy seems to be now which is why this is going to be slowed because the window to buy is closing. I'll update with what I end up doing because I'm still now sure, but we'll see..

    A few pictures from h2o of my car, I wish I had taken more, but I got sidetracked, oh well.

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    Then on the day before we left (the day he was leaving) disaster struck my friends boosted e36 and luckily another friend of ours was willing to drive from NH to MD to pickup the car and drive back. He's a cool dude. He had done a quick burnout and pushed the clutch in, pulled it out of first and went to go into second and couldn't get it in... I'm the e36 guru among my friends and got the call. I took off the slave and looked inside and it all seemed normal, fork was a little excessively loose, so I figured either the pivot pin disintegrated or the TOB welded itself to the slide (guide tube). He had it towed to my house so I could fix it.

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    I got it all apart, TOB was stuck to the sleeve, I got it loose, but not super easily, and I thought, okay that was an easy fix. Got a new TOB, guide, pivot, and pilot and wants to throw it all in. The pilot had pulled out of the crank when I pulled the tranny off, but I figured it was just due to the heat, so I pulled off the clutch and PP to replace it, and it's a good thing I did...

    Flywheel was destroyed with heat marks and I couldn't understand why, so I went to flip the clutch over to see the pressure plate... And it's welded. I'm guessing the clutch was just barely slipping during the burnout and with R comps and 400+WHP, it doesn't take much to overheat and weld it. So I'm waiting on him to decide on a new clutch and flywheel so I can throw that back together.. Kinda glad I didn't go boosted m5x even more now though because damn there is no room anywhere... Lol

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    Now I don't think it was all his fault either. With everything out. I found everything. EVERYTHING. Was completely dry, not one spec of lubrication anywhere, which doesn't help at all. He bought the car already boosted and has had it for a month and who knows what the POs did.

    Also, my wing broke): I'll be fixing it, but just sucks I have to refiberglass and sand it. Both ends split between the top and bottom around. But shit happens driving over all those shitty roads and harsh sidewinds. Oh well lol.

    RB e36 needs to start soon though, I'm too anxious after fixing my friends RB s13 in a gas station [emoji17]
     
  8. kenta

    kenta Member

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    excellent mate , more pics ^^

    - - - Updated - - -

    excellent mate , more pics ^^
     
  9. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    Well I ordered my intercooler and it came so a welder friend of mine and I made all the mounts for it. It's a mishimoto Eat sleep race 31x11.75x3 gold, with 3" inlet and outlet. A little big for the stock turbo, but I didn't want to have to buy two intercooler sand make two mounts etc etc. I leaned the intercooler slightly forward as it overall sits a little lower than the radiator, and when I make my ducting it will help the air travel up into the radiator and not below the car. Too bad there isn't enough room on an e36 for a true V-mount setup, but I'm very happy with how it came out!

    Here it is just sitting in front of the car:

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    I don't have any pictures of the process, but cut measure weld drill, basic stuff. Here it is with the bumper on and the mounts all done:

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    That's my welder friend Jeremy leaning over the car, he's da bomb dot com for helping out and giving me tips on how to tig

    And mounts done with the bumper off:

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    I'll get better close ups later of it all. I still have to clean up the radiator support and make that all pretty-ish too, but I'm trying to get the oil cooler mounts first, then pull it all out and clean it up then make the back bracing. Not sure where exactly I want the oil cooler. I'm thinking by the passenger fog light hole, but I'm also thinking above the intercooler. I just don't want to radiator too blocked off from everything and I want to avoid heatsoak as much as possible. I'll see as the week progresses. I just want to at least get my coldside piping in to see the room that I have.

    Also finally got my TIG hooked up (that's what my friend was welding with for me mounts). I'm certainly not good, but with under 2 hours of practice I'm happy with my progress

    [​IMG]

    That's all for now folks!


    More pics of my friends car? I'll try and get some, still waiting on the clutch to show up, but it's certainly a lovely car especially aired out or even aired down to his driving height!
     
  10. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    My buddy is coming back over tomorrow and we'll be doing my oil cooler mounts which should be quick and easy. Possibly making my lines of we have time. Then I can actually put oil in my engine [emoji28].

    I quickly just threw the front end minus the bumper on, to see how it all fit (I'll be getting a new nose panel, this one is kind of f'd up), and it fit great!

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    Now the oil cooler I can mount in two spots... And I kind of want opinions on it... I can go behind the nose panel here:

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    Or behind the bumper cover over here:

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    Behind the nose panel would get the best flow, but I'm not sure if I should cover the radiator more or not... Will it actually effect cooling much? And going behind the bumper is nice, but there is less airflow through there and I don't want my oil cooler being super low and possibly hitting stuff.. Or in the event of tapping someone tandeming causing it to break off etc.
    The cooler is a Setrab pn# 51-07944 and is about 13" x 5.75" x 2.25". It has -10an 90* fittings on it now, not the -8an blockoffs that are pictured.

    [​IMG]

    Opinions?
     
  11. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    So I never got the oil cooler mounted, the one I got just won't work too well, so I'm ordering another one today and hopefully it'll fit better. Then I can mount it later in the week. I haven't really gotten much done at all on this car really, I've been super busy and a lot of stuff changed for me so I haven't had time to work on stuff. I ended up deciding I was going to part out the white car (my daily) and use what I needed off of it for the black car. Here's a crappy picture my friend took as I was taking it all apart, more has been removed now.

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    Then I bought a 2012 coffee brown TDI for my new daily. It's nice having a stock comfortable daily you don't have to worry about lol.

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    So I moved the fenders to the white car, dialed out my camber and threw my new roadstars on. They didn't fit well at -3.5, but at -7.5 with a big roll, I got them under there and am not able to turn all the way to lock.

    Rolled, -7.5*
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    Stock, -3.5*
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    Then I finally got around to welding my roof in as the car will be outside/inside for the winter. I have to push it in when I want to work on it, then push it back out when I'm done. So skinned the roof skin and welded it in, just need to get some windo-weld to seal it up, then block the roof and paint it.

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    And here's a random picture of it outside

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    Wish I had more of an update, but that's where it's at for now! Hopefully making more progress ASAP and getting it started before winter. Also let me know if anyone needs anything off the white car.
     
  12. BenRice

    BenRice Well-Known Member

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    Interesting build.

    Would suggest you mount the oil cooler upside down off to the side you've considered. Then it's easy to drain oil and the lines won't be too long either. As long as the fittings are higher than the chassis rail you should be fine, and it's easy enough for someone like yourself to make up a custom bash bar to protect it.

    Just FYI, S1 turbo's are ceramic wheeled. I've been running mine for the past 6 years @ 10psi without any issues though.
     
  13. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    Okay well... I lied again I guess, lol. My TIGing friend was sick so he couldn't come by to weld the tabs on my oil cooler this weekend. I ended up getting my aerocatches in and I installed those into the hood, I just have to make a drop bracket in the radiator support to hold the pins because the rad support sits too high and you can fit the pin normally. Came out pretty good for an almost 100% eyeball measurement:

    [​IMG]

    Also I "rolled" my passenger fender, I still have some work to do on it to get it even and more out, but for now I'm happy. I don't want to use any filler on it so I don't have to worry about it cracked if it comes into contact with anything, so I have a lot of hammer and dolly time ahead of me lol

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    Then here's a random SLR picture of my angle (hitting on the wheel well in the picture of the angle, since fixed and got a little more) and the kit about to bottom itself out.

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    And the state of the white car... Only have front seats, wiring, gas tank, wipers, blower, glass, and a few other things left to take off (bumper has been removed since the picture). It's kind of sad at the same time I'm happy with my new daily and I know it will live on in the now "Oreo" car:

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    I ordered my fuse box and like 1000ft of wiring so hopefully I get the wiring done this week, no promises, I get super tired and distracted. Then the oil cooler this weekend. Quick turn of the flywheel and it will be ready for a first fire [emoji91]. Well start... Hopefully it doesn't catch on fire lol.

    Also, I need an engine ground wire. Anyone know what size I should get? Need one for he alternator, and one for the block. I wanted to run a single one for both, just two smaller sizes then merge them, but I'm not sure where to go for that. I'm grounding to the stock E36 engine ground point and I need probably no around 12" of length, 6" after the "T"
     
  14. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    Yeah I decided to mount it up in the corner, I figured it's the best spot for it and I saw a twin turbo LS3 e36 that drifts with it up there so it must work just fine. I'll be building the mounts soon.

    And yeah I know, the compressor wheel is steel, just the turbine is ceramic, but I have no intentions of over 10psi until I get a different turbo so that's good to hear! [emoji4]
     
  15. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    Well, major update...

    It started, and it runs, and it went great! I only had to do a few wiring things quickly to get it all hookup up to power, make my oil cooler lines, and throw my flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch on. Hooked up my fuel lines and went to crank it and it cranked but wouldn't fire. Checked everything, and was like freaking out that something wasn't hooked up right in my wiring... NOPE. Just turns out my fuel pump I was using was dead. Hooked a new one up and fired up immediately! Well without further delay... Here's the video:

    https://www.facebook.com/brochedaddy/videos/vb.1832680130/10203531035796503/?type=2&theater

    And here's some pictures:

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    Power wiring I just threw together, I'm going to make it better soon:

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    On a less exciting note, I sealed my roof:

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  16. Okoye

    Okoye Member

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    Hope that's not your final place for the battery.
     
  17. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    Like I said I just threw it together... It's not staying there nor are all the wires staying visible. That fuse and relay panel is even getting changed. I was sick of just staring at it and wanted to see if it actually ran good so I started it without actually hooking everything up correctly.
     
  18. Ste333

    Ste333 "The Shoulder"

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    good work man :) love it
     
  19. BrandonRoche

    BrandonRoche Member

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    Okay well I got my BOV, IC piping, and routed it. The shop I ordered all my stuff from got the wrong sized t clamps for the hot side, so they are getting me new ones. For just kinda looking at my bay and ordering, I did pretty well. Will end up redoing it all eventually as one piece and just having it welded, but for now I'm happy with it! Pretty much decided to go external gate now instead of later, so I'm ordering a tial 44mm soon (like today probably lol).
    It fires up now no issues and idles perfectly with all the AAC and shit hooked up. I need to obviously clean up my vacuum lines, but I will do that when I pull the motor for painting the bay.
    Also got most of my water lines hooked up! Just need to find a lower radiator hose (I just kinda went out back at autozone and picked which ones I thought would fit, I grab a good one for the top, but the bottom on I got the wrong ID). Need to get new hose clamps so it looks a little better and is easy to work with too. Under the intake manifold is HECTIC, but it works for now until I pull the motor and organize it. Also need to hookup my turbo water lines, but that's easy I only didn't do that because the engine was warm after starting it yesterday.
    Also fixed my power draw that was killing my batteries... I pinned the ignition relay wrong and it made the ECU and sensors never turn off [emoji52]. But it's all set now, I just feel like and idiot.
    Onto the issues... I have no tach so I really can't tell where it's cutting out, but it's cutting out. If I remember correctly it is exactly the same when the MAF is plugged in and unplugged meaning it's in limp mode.. So a new MAF is only $150 but I'm trying to see if I can find someone local to let me use theirs for like 5 minutes to see if it fixes it.
    It's so close, but so far. I only have these things left to do before I drive it:
    - Run brake lines
    - Run slave line
    - Driveshaft
    - Fuel lines
    - Fix the subframe mounts and install my m3 rear suspension
    - Install the gas tank
    - Tidy up wiring
    - Paint (I think I have a new color in mind, but I'm not sure)
    - Exhaust

    That's it... Then it should drive. I will still need to do my accusump and such, but for first drives that doesn't matter really, I just want it in before the first event really, but with RB prices being so low... I may just go to the first event without it if I don't have it done yet lol

    Well, here's some pictures... Yeah, I have a lot of clamps on the cold side, but I needed it [emoji85]

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    This was just mocking it up, and me guessing where I wanted to BOV (hadn't even bought it yet or even held it, just marked it and went to my buddy and bought it and had it welded on, fits mint though)
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    That's it for now! Finals are over on Wednesday, so more rapid progress should be coming [emoji48]

    Thank you!!
     
  20. BenRice

    BenRice Well-Known Member

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    Are you running an electric power steering pump?
     

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