Slick or treaded, is there any difference between them (apart from the obvious). Does one work better on certain surface or give more grip than the other?
I find the treaded ones tend to fire up a lot more crap into the chassis / shell, they also drop off in grip when the treads are gone, which happens pretty quickly! Now i'm using slicks, I won't be bothering with treaded again!
treaded one grip abit more on tarmac but once the treats wear off theres not much differance speak to PE666 he's done alot of testing and comparing the
^^ that + the thread get filled up with crap. Small rocks, bits of metal etc. I always use slicks, as I have the best experience with them
Ok cool, thanks for the advice guys. Will just be buying slicks from now on. Also, are T-Drifts the best tyres out there?
Anyone got a link for the slick versions? I can only ever find the treaded ones. I'll wear out a set in 2 hours
You can get about 4 sets of the t-drift replicas from r2 hobbies for the same price as buying real hpi t-drifts from uk. Only problem is you might wait about a week to get them. http://www.r2hobbies.com/men/proddetail.php?prod=rcvp3320010
Might wait more than a week for them it 2 weeks today for my order from r2 hobbies. Hopefully it won't be much longer
I've tried a lot of tyres over the years when I used to test them for the D1rc series and imho Id say the tyres to go for are either the Slick Hpi T-drifts 4x#33457 2x#4406 , Yokomo Super Drift Tire Zero One R 2x#ZR-DR02 or from what I saw on Saturday night the newer Yokomo R2's 2x#ZR-DR04 (although ive not driven on them myself). There was a couple of nice Tamiya ones too but I cant remember which ones, Tamiya Uk are know for being bellends and were not interested in bringing them in for us, they even wanted the worn and abused test sets we used at D1rc returned unless we paid for them. The Treaded T-drifts do give a more grip while the tread is still on them, once its worn down the grip drops off to slightly more slick T-drift because there made from softer plastic. I used to wear a set of rears smooth every 2 batteries with the camber set at 1degree, the fronts fall off faster because the inner edge goes real quick because of the camber normally half way through the 2nd battery. A few of us swapped and changed the different tread patterns once and found the Toyo R1r's and the Advan AD07's were a little bit quicker than the rest. We decided it had something to do with how the edge of the tread "feathered" on them and the AD07 and R1r's seemed to rough up more than the rest. Id steer well clear of any home brew PVC pipe jobs though, Ive never used a good set yet they have feck all grip and normally have to be glued in place which makes it a twat of a job changing tyres and normally wrecks the wheel anyway. Same with any tyre without a lip that needs glueing, just say no! You'll spend most your time chasing the tyre down the track when you dont glue them enough or smashing the fookers of at tyre changes because you've used too much Like Mitto said its all about availability at the moment, the GENUINE HPI and Yokomo ones are easy to find in the UK. Steer way clear of the R2hobbies knock off shit, the tyres are ok but everything else is trash especially the wheels, the spokes snap for fun
Lol maybe I shouldn't of opened my mouth :L Yeah probably more like 2 weeks max on shipping. I got 4 sets of the replicas from r2 hobbies and one set of the the real hpi t-drifts pre mounted from modelsport and I could not see a difference between them both, they both are made from same compound and one has hpi text slapped on them. I'm not a professional drifter or anything (just bash about in car parks) so you might wana stick to what these guys are saying :L
they are definatley not the same compound, quite close though. The difference the tyres make is a massive as wanli compared with A048s
