The curse of the Canadian R32 4 door

Thread in 'Project Cars and Builds Threads' started by Kris-mk, Apr 24, 2015.

  1. Kris-mk

    Kris-mk Member

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    More small updates, welded the new battery tray into the trunk, ran the new power cable from the trunk to the engine bay (temporarily, once length is finalized i’ll Be removing it, wrapping it in loom and mounting it more securely) and got power back into the car for the first time in a very long time. My new headlight lenses showed up today so I’ve got then siliconed on and ready to get permanently mounted once again. The end is near, just waiting on a bunch of parts, my friend to find the last of my injectors and then it’s off for ecu and tuning!

    98C1DDC3-7F7E-445D-AD91-04421D4899DB. BC22C396-2CBD-4550-9AF5-4EDEDCA11AD1. 9580948C-67A5-49A9-89E1-F15979DB82F4. CC5690BF-4138-4B39-84AC-C540E109A113. E09F3316-86AE-40DF-A510-3245E5F513B2.
     
  2. crazyae86

    crazyae86 Well-Known Member

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    hey it looks nice !!
     
  3. eskimo_god

    eskimo_god Member

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    Where you get the lenses from for the lights? Looks mint project tho bud giving me ideas for my r32
     
  4. Kris-mk

    Kris-mk Member

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    A company based in California that I’ve been working with. This is the first set that’s been made. They’re called Royal Natives Co. The lenses seem to be excellent, flexible so they should last and they fit the housings perfectly. They also make s13 silvia and s14 zenki lenses. The r32’s should be added to the site soon! Check them out on Instagram and their website

    Update to the build related:

    Here’s a photo of the car with the front end all mounted up and the lenses properly glued in place

    9C108EB3-11D6-4666-AAB2-3C09F8681E81.
     
  5. noss

    noss Member

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    Good Vibes Street Tribe
     
  6. Kris-mk

    Kris-mk Member

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    That’s us!

    Small but Big update,
    Threw some ford crown Victoria injectors in it and an safc II, did a quick little play around with the AFM map and managed to get it running well enough to take it for a little drive for the first time since the fall of 2016

    2CC2B4E5-F5C1-4FD1-B4A7-974D3E69A22E.
     
  7. eskimo_god

    eskimo_god Member

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    that looks sick as dude! black and carbon does work well dont it ;) whats your plans for it next?
     
  8. Kris-mk

    Kris-mk Member

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    Trying to sell my r34 so I can fund an ecu masters standalone, new aluminum drive shaft and a proper dyno tune for it. It doesn’t run all that well with the piggy back set up so before I go out beating on it I want proper management.

    Then hopefully do a bit of body work, a coat of fresh black and get it out on track without too many issues all year!
     
  9. Kris-mk

    Kris-mk Member

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    Having driven the car for a couple days I’ve decided I’m over stretched tires, being too low and basically everything I once thought I knew. So I’ve raised the car and am playing with new front wheel and tire sizes. Tried a 235/40/18x9.5 and a 245/40/17x10 so far. Going for a power vehicles jzx style stance that looks aggressive, and functional while still drawing the right kind of attention.

    Went and grabbed a nice final shot of it slammed to the ground and tucking the rear tire nicely though!
    5C8A15D6-8F3F-4FBD-92FF-53C0EC98CC43.

    940A8C2A-3BF1-4160-BD33-088B80BE9C04.
    029B4646-7685-4A39-BAF1-6D72AB7EED00.
     
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  10. BenRice

    BenRice Well-Known Member

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    TE's look like they sit nicely. What was the rear camber at before and now at the new rear ride height?

    I've gone through the same change (sort of) and didn't like how 0 rear camber looks at a functional height - made the front and rear look too out of whack. I'm playing around with tipping it back to -0.75 and adding a bit of space, which might be something for you to consider too

    People might bang on about tyre wear, but i've found almost no noticeable difference in wear or traction between 0 and -1 camber. Toe changes on compression do more for tyre wear than 1 degree of camber will ever do at this point
     
  11. Kris-mk

    Kris-mk Member

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    I had it set at 0 at the old height, probably sitting slightly positive since I raised it, will be trying to stuff a 235 or 245 in the rear and aiming for 0 again to see how that does. I agree on the difference between -1 and 0 being nil especially when you get into tracks that favour one direction and the body roll changes the camber gain on both sides too. Have really liked how it’s been driving at 0 with a slight bit of toe in though
     
  12. BenRice

    BenRice Well-Known Member

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    Do you find it wants to snap straight a lot more when off throttle with the static toe in? Have found going rose jointed (ie less flex) on the traction arm and setting it 2-3mm longer meant i didn't have to dial in as much static toe in. Also resulted in a bit more off-throttle feedback

    I'm down to like 0.5mm toe in each side now, as opposed to 1.75mm each side
     
  13. Kris-mk

    Kris-mk Member

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    I have gk tech traction arms so the rose joint is there, however I haven’t played with the length, set them to stock. Am very curious to see how I can benefit from it but I never fully understood how they change the toe through travel so I left them alone. It does grip up pretty good off throttle but it also had a lot of bite and acceleration while on throttle so it was a pretty good balance so far. I fear it may be a different story with a bigger tire though
     
  14. Kris-mk

    Kris-mk Member

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    Minor update, had my new driveshaft made, did some tidying up in the engine bay, just need to get the proper fittings and finish plumbing in my catch can and that’s done. Been driving the car for a couple days and it’s a fully functioning automobile again. Feels like it’s come a long way, and I really can’t wait to get a stand-alone and real tune. It’s already tons faster than I remember it being and it’s running very poor managment at the moment.

    Also decided to give it the first wash it’s seen since June of 2016

    1C512E0B-7FC0-464E-A2B8-04768D1CD4EB.

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    This’ll probably be the last update really until I have some dyno sheets and drifting media. Nothing major left to do other than the ECU and tuning before I can get back to doing what it’s made for (and bodywork but thats a whole new can of worms)
     
  15. Kris-mk

    Kris-mk Member

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    I lied. Went drifting, built a good car. Shame about the driver :wack:

    E179BC55-DC97-429E-8E53-4EC9FFF52A85. F8C330C0-E8E6-48BC-AE2A-F9BAD386C42F. FA2F9D02-F88A-4F2C-92FB-13FD96E109BE.

    Off to a frame shop to be pulled straight then i’ll Tube from the towers forward and possibly cage it while I’m doing that.

    Guess this thread has more updates in it to come yet
     
    #75 Kris-mk, Feb 18, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2018
  16. BenRice

    BenRice Well-Known Member

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    Gutted for you dude
     
  17. Shire Motorsport

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    Get it on the jig she’s save able
     
  18. Kris-mk

    Kris-mk Member

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    Have a body guy coming to have a look tomorrow. Will be taking it to a jig ASAP. Next drift day isn’t too far away hahah

    5105C4F7-D30E-4925-8163-57CA06F3DA14.
     
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  19. tomsheen

    tomsheen Active Member

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    Sickened for ya love this car. She’ll be mint again soon no doubt
     
  20. Bu11et

    Bu11et Well-Known Member

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    Wow...that sucks!! Head up dude, definitely saveable...
     

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