The HOLSET Thread

Thread in 'Technical Questions' started by dale_b, Nov 23, 2012.

  1. carlg

    carlg New Member

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    So I managed to get my HX35 1.8t on the dyno. the below is with a 100 shot of nitrous

    IMG_20170408_150945_zpsfzk6aiky.

    I had a stronger wastegate spring but it was too aggressive and was holding 2.8 bar without any duty cycle. so i popped the weaker one back in. without the nitrous it made about 420 and obviously spooled later

    IMG_20170402_190709_zpsf42hrmpv.
     
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  2. Andy318ti

    Andy318ti Active Member

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    That is fucking mega, is the mk2 a syncro?
    Any videos of it?
     
  3. carlg

    carlg New Member

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    Hi Andy,

    Thanks it's FWD I use it for drag racing here is a video of it last year when it had a 2.5 inch exhaust and was still road legal (although without slicks on the road its a bit silly) I will be putting it back in to street trim later on in the year with a 3" exhaust just have to make a suitable downpipe for it. I am racing tomorrow so will let you know how it goes.

     
  4. thebe

    thebe Member

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    Hi. I'm building a rb30/25det with Sinco manifold and he351w turbo with (i think) hx40w exhaust housing. Problem is, the turbos internal wastegate-part is hitting the valve cover. Added pics that show the issue. Is it safe to grind/cut the turbo? I will use an external wastegate. Thanks for any help!

    IMG_20170415_154308.

    IMG_20170415_161253.

    IMG_20170415_161258.

    IMG_20170415_154328.
     
  5. bigdave z20

    bigdave z20 Member

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    Yea that'll be ok to remove dude. It's very thick cast. I've chopped up an internally gated hx35 before with no issues. Sounds a cool turbo, is it a 14cm exhaust housing?
     
  6. thebe

    thebe Member

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    Yes it's 14cm which is why Id like to keep it :) thanks for the reply. Do you happen to have any pics before/after? Id need to grind/cut it quite a bit so Im a bit unsure.
     
  7. bigdave z20

    bigdave z20 Member

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    It on the previous page.
    You can look inside the housing and see where the exhaust gases go. It doesn't go out anywhere near as far as the part you have marked needing cut off. We also spoke to Steve Murch (holset guru from NZ) about cutting more off the housing and he said there would be no issues.
     
  8. thebe

    thebe Member

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    Thanks a lot mate! Excellent work there. That turbo looks really nice. Do you have any results yet? Would be interested to seeing them.

    Im confident grinding/cutting mine now, big thanks!
     
  9. bigdave z20

    bigdave z20 Member

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    No results yet man, you will defo see them posted up when it's mapped. Guy is wanting to see what a holset does on a good setup.
    I'd defo be running a 4" downpipe if I was you, wasn't difficult or expensive to do and will make a big difference in the holset
     
  10. Benkid

    Benkid Member

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    Hey guys.


    Could I get some people's advise on my Holset drain setup.


    Holset HY35 on an RB25 with mild steel manifold.


    Drain tube is twin walled rubber hydraulic hose with 19mm ID kept as straight as possible all the way down to the block


    My only real concern is with the heat. Everything is wrapped including the manifold, exhaust housing and 3" downpipe but a lot of people have told me I should just use AN10 fittings and stainless hose. People seem obsessed with AN10 but the ID is too small and against Holset guidelines.


    There's a good 40mm clearance all round from the wrapped manifold


    36F81BD7-D286-4471-8523-193489494A55_zpsb7k6yqn5.


    26B9FEA5-5630-4136-BF35-73CB4FCF6000_zpskozvdlit.


    9140AB98-BD29-409C-B44F-BEC9E4823019_zpsay12uare.


    DE95A8E0-7DB0-473D-958D-0FC383163AFF_zpsxht3m1cx.


    2A15EEF8-E5C5-42A2-BE86-E0B48196034A_zpstl3xhjtm.


    3CDEF935-104D-401F-AA3B-9A5812F80047_zpsu9cg2cqj.


    B97FFFCD-2186-4714-8FC2-AC2CD4DF3553_zpsqgob1lst.


    38F79624-F70B-4DB1-BE1A-28C7F9260914_zpstxid4msb.


    Cheers
     
  11. BenRice

    BenRice Well-Known Member

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    Do those who are advising you run a Holset? I'd wager not, and if so, ignore them.

    How much steel pipe have you got coming off the oil drain fitting on the turbo? A lot of people lengthen it so they're not connecting the hose until the pipe is well clear of the turbo-manifold flange

    In saying that you've done a good job on the heat wrapping. If you're still worried I'd slide a heat shield sleeve over the rubber hose: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25mm-ID-F...157735?hash=item41bc9b2267:g:tRgAAOSwzaJYBjtg

    Something like that should be nice and snug around the hose so shouldn't get close to the turbine housing
     
  12. Benkid

    Benkid Member

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    There's maybe 2 inches of metal piper hat the rubbers connected to. See the first pic. I managed to find some more 22mm steel pipe today. Going to make the drain longer as you suggested and then add the hose further away to be safe.
     
  13. thebe

    thebe Member

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    I will be making a 3,5" full exhaust, hopefully that will be big enough.

    So now Ive cut the turbo a bit and it somehow fits. I have maybe 3-4mm between exhaust housing and Cam cover.. How much do you need to be safe? It looks quite tight.. I dont have the equipment or skill to do as much welding as you did.

    I havent grinded my Cam covers yet but I dont think I would gain much from there.

    As you can see from the pics there's not much left to cut or I wont be able to fit the top bolt.

    IMG_20170427_203341.

    IMG_20170427_203101.

    IMG_20170427_203327.
     
    #1413 thebe, Apr 27, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2017
  14. BenRice

    BenRice Well-Known Member

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    I'd be worried about heating the cam cover up and causing the cam cover gasket to blow = oil over hot turbine housing

    But you don't exaclty have any more meat to take out of the internal wastegate portion. You're honestly better to get the internal wastegate part of the turbine housing cut off, then fill the cavity from the internal WG to the turbine outlet, then trimming down your rear flange to suit. Most go further and weld on v-bands but you already have the flange so may as well use it.

    An alternative option is to see if you can fit a turbo beanie over the turbine housing to create a barrier between it and the cam cover
     
  15. BenRice

    BenRice Well-Known Member

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    Another thought, what is the spacing like between the turbo and the strut tower?

    It could be easier to section the collector on the Sinco and rewelding that so the mounting face is rotated away from the cam cover
     
  16. Benkid

    Benkid Member

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    I don't think you'll get a jacket on that exhaust housing for love nor money. I would agree with Benrice and modify the manifold surface to angle the turbo away from the cover.
     
  17. thebe

    thebe Member

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    Thanks for the replies guys.

    Im not really comfortable cutting the manifold. Its such a nice piece:D I emailed sinco and they recommended getting another housing or cutting/welding the housing. And/or making a heatshield and using heat reflecting tape. Theres a few cm between strut Tower and the turbo. Havent actually measured it.

    How about grinding the turbos t3 flange to a small angle so that the turbo tilts a bit and away from the Cam cover? I think theres just enough play in the stud holes in the turbo flange so that it could work. Or maybe id need to enlarger the holes..

    I also though about grinding the manifolds t3 flange to a small angle (to tilt the turbo a bit) but I dont think I could use the manifolds stud holes anymore... Could grinding the turbos flange work? Most importantly would I be able to fasten it to the manifold strongly enough If the flange is tilted?

    How much do you think is acceptable clearance between the housing and Cam cover? Havent really been able to find any info by googling.
     
  18. Benkid

    Benkid Member

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    If you were to modify the angle of either surface I would imagine it'd have to be machined and not attacked with a grinder lol. You want the mounting surfaces to be completely flat. If you could change the exhaust housing that'd probably be the best solution but I don't know what options you have.
     
  19. thebe

    thebe Member

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    Haha yes machined by a machine shop ofcourse. Was tired so struggling for words :D Im running out of money and car's been 2,5 years off the road so a second housing isnt really ideal (budget-wise). Although all that welding etc probably wont be free either.
     
  20. pjay

    pjay Member

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    why not get another exhaust flange to use as a spacer and/or weld that to the manifold? that would give you the clearance you require?
     

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