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Thread in 'Technical Questions' started by dale_b, Nov 23, 2012.
Yea he changed it and said that it was all working fine.
An HY35 shouldn't be spooling that late so something is amiss. What size rear housing?
Due to the "tuners" preconceived notions on the turbo, I would be verifying that the VCT is actually engaging. The solenoid itself may be bad and not engaging. It does have all the hallmarks of no VCT. You can first verify by giving the car a blip on the throttle and (while standing next to the engine) listening for the solenoid to click. If you can't hear it, then ground one of the pins and apply 12v to the other. It will make an audible click. If not, the solenoid is bad.
Next port of call would be the wastegate opening up/leaking. This is easy enough to check on the dyno as it shouldn't have any exhaust flowing out while the engine is under the wastegate spring pressure. You can remove the wastegate and disassemble to see if it has any signs of a leaky diaphragm. Even if it's a name-brand genuine unit it's still worth doing.
Final thing is the timing may be out on the engine or the TPS needs calibrating. If all those come up with nada then it's compression test time
Interesting points there.
I'll check to hear for the VCT solenoid tomorrow.
The wastegate was sent in with a .8 spring which he said was actually too strong so removed one of the springs. Could this be the cause if the spring is too weak?
He re-times the engine himself when he replaced the VCT sprocket so that should be ok. The TPS is actually from an SR20DET. Could that make a difference?
He said when he replaced the VCT sprocket it bought the boost in by about 500rpm.
I'd still verify that it works. Then i'd be looking at the wastegate.
The TPS could be contributing to it, but i'd be surprised if it was the sole cause of that amount of lag.
He's not a Garrett dealer by any chance?
could it be the cause of a spring too soft?
He's not a Garrett dealer as such but he does tend to favour them.
It could be. If the spring is so soft that even a minor amount of backpressure forces it open then that could cause it
I don't knw how it all works but the car is set to 1.2 bar and is running a .4 bar wastegate spring. Would that be considered too soft?
Update. Turns out I've been a bit of a willy.
I bought the turbo thinking the internal gate had already been welded shut. Turns out it hasn't. The fact it made what it did is an achievement in itself. Will report back after round two lol. Cheers for your input guys
I'd chuck the 0.8 bar spring back into it aswell dude. Would probably help the responsiveness a bit. I'd say a 0.4 bar spring would crack open if you looked at it the wrong way, lol.
Yea I've kept hold of it so will throw that on before the new map session.
Bigger downpipe will help mid range loads on the 2.5 too and cost a fraction of a new turbo.
Tuner has made a dick of himself too. People who don't know better would've binned the HY idea and spend 3-4 times the money on a GTX30 chasing response.
I know. I've tried to do everything by the book with this setup. I really wanted to be able to change his opinion on Holsets. Then when I had that result I was gutted. Not going to lie I was so close to throwing in the towel all over something as simple as one small weld. Hopefully that's put me back on track and will hopefully sway his opinion on Holsets. Will report back once it's back in for tune but I'm gutted I only just realised once I got the car home. I now have to wait another three weeks to get the car to him as my delivery driver is away for work and it's going to cost me another £160 to get it there and back again plus tuners time on the dyno. Fml.
Is he really the only option? I've never heard of a customer having to work so hard to get what should be, a minimum level of service
I can see why so many people complain about UK dyno tuners on the whole
It makes me so much more thankful I've got 3 options in my city of 150,000
For some reason it seems to be that certain UK tuners (and some Irish ones!) are extremely prejudiced against Holsets.
I'd say its a combination between them trying to push their own shit, and because of the fact that back when holset turbos started appearing on the scene, there was one dude in particular that sold A LOT of them as "12cm" turbines, but they were actually like 16-18cm. I think this is really what started the whole "holsets are laggy" sort of stigma that they receive a lot of in the UK.
This, in conjunction with the fact that most of them are bolted to cheap setups with little to no thought put into them (this is because they are a cheap turbo that anyone has access to really) just do not paint them in a good light whatsoever.
Obviously there are people that know better and have got great results with them, so I prefer to try and look at the positive side of it - the less people that want to use them, the cheaper they (and their associated parts) will hopefully stay due to little demand!
Sorry for hijacking thread but I plan on getting HX35 but what else do I need on top of that? Like oil drain line etc. restrictor? I need to know everything to get with the turbo.. I’m new to the turbo scene and need some help please lol..
Car, current spec, goals, budget?
Right right right lol, I have a 1jz 1992 Toyota Soarer converting it to a single turbo, getting a 6boost twin scroll t3 with 45mm wastegate, also plan on getting siemen 650cc rail fuel injectors to go with it. Currently I am running the stock twins with Greddy intercooler/kakimoto exhaust/blitz turbo timer/hks evc boost controller.. I’m looking to be around the 400-450whp area ideally.. and budget? Not really worried about budget just trying to get proper mods so it runs smooth
I know most people don't have the time to read this thread from cover to cover but if you have the time it's well worth it
I'll let the JZ engine specialists recommend the oil feed setup, but to quickly cover off the other bits:
- You need a big oil drain that goes straight down. No AN fittings. I repeat, no AN fittings. If you can't find an off the shelf solution, get an oil drain flange and get a long piece of tubing welded on as big as you can fit and still access the oil drain bolts. Have the drain finish well clear of the manifold so you don't have to put any rubber hose close to the runners.
- Minimum 3" dump pipe off the turbo, but if you have the space (and you should being LHD) a 3.5" or 4" will see big gains in flow and boost control. Even just for the first couple of feet, but further ideally. You won't have to go far back through this thread to see what people have done as far as trimming the rear housing to fit V bands to the housing to free up the housing exit
- You'll have to consider an ECU as well, stock will throw it's toys out of the cot with the bigger injectors. I believe ECU Masters is big in Florida right now?
- Last thing is the things people tend to overlook: fresh water pump, timing belt & tensioner, oil cooler, bigger radiator, coilpacks - all things that tend to pop up when you start pushing an engine harder
Awesome, I’ll keep looking at the thread, I have been slowly finding things that help.. thanks a lot