hello everyone. I have a 1jz-gte vvti and was wondering if it would run fine on a 1jz-ge ecu. I had a gte ecu but I guess it was bad since my injectors weren't firing with that ecu. So I plug the ge ecu in and it fires right up and idles, (runs rich but the swap isnt 100% complete so I'm not able to drive and test ecu). If it's true that the ecu is not compatible then what would you recommend doing? I've already recieved one bad ecu from ebay, not sure if I'm willing to risk it again. I've researched this topic but no one swaps to a ge ecu. Just looking for your two cents, thanks.
I cant believe it works to start with! I thought the looms were different. Fuelling will be though. The twins come in later than vvti. And the ct15 will come in differently than two ct12. So I'd say fuelling will all be wrong. It might work. But it might run rich or lean in all the wrong areas. Go standalone and get it mapped. Or go back to a vvti ECU as suggested. If you plan to change turbos and things later. Surely standalone is worth the investment. O got my link on 0% from Walton Motorsport. If you have a bad ECU pull it apart and check for leaking capacitors. Clean up the gunk with a cotton wool bud. Get the details of which capacitor is dead and solder in new ones. Common for these ECU to do this. Good luck!
It's a 1jz-ge vvti ecu. Oddly enough my motor is an etcs-i 1jz with a dbw delete and it runs fine. Yeah I'm going to go standalone eventually but I dont have a few grand to drop atm.
Ah got it. Ok well it will start and run fine until it gets to 3.5k or whenever the ct15 comes on line and it will run lean. It will fuel to the vvti but wont be putting in enough fuel when the turbo is running. Its fuelling for a non turbo. So it will work happily below turbo power band. Depending on the fuelling you could run into det if you allow the engine to go into boost. Careful
oh yeah that makes sense, thank you! what standalone ecu would you recommend? I've personally been looking into haltech.
Aging tho. I've seen a power FC break and destroy an engine on Toyota soarer group. Link. ECU master also good for less money Lots of places do zero percent. If its auto tho.... it's not gonna be cheap.
whats the total cost ? it looks fairly cheap , I'd never really heard of them until recent so don't have much to go on ECUMaster EMU Black ECU £729.00 £874.80 (inc. VAT) is that plug and play too ? looks similar to the Haltech Elite
Yeah I've got a lot of recommendations for an EMU standalone. Here's an idea: what if I used a greddy piggyback and tuned the 1jz-ge ecu for boost? I honestly just want to drive the car at this point haha. It's been down for months. Can the piggyback utilize a maf? My etcs-i motor has no map.
so I have three 1jz ecus (for a 1jz vvti etcsi): my original immobilized 1jzgte ecu (obv wont work), a 1jzgte vvti non immobilized ecu, and a 1jzge ecu. long story short, my 1jzgte non immobi ecu wouldn't fire the injectors. I plug in the 1jzge ecu and itll fire right up and idle fine, but obviously isnt mapped correctly for a boosted engine. I noticed a few capacitors in the 1jzgte ecu that were bulged at the bottom so I swapped some from the immobilized ecu. It'll now sometimes slowly start up and run for 2-3 seconds then shut off. It's very hit or miss. Does anyone know any ecu guru's? The obvious solution is to go standalone but that's not an option for me at this moment.
sounds pretty frustrating , I'd bake it in the oven at 200deg C 8mins, as a last ditch attempt to re-flow the solder . It might last 3-6 months at least to get you up and running until you can find a replacement. you have to strip the board right down , its the same method as re-flowing YLOD PlayStation or ROD Xbox
thanks for the idea. I'm almost thinking it is a bad solder connection somewhere... it looks like such a clean ecu
you could try freezing it first to see it that's the problem, it will stop working again when it warms up. then you know it needs a reflow
it shrinks the solder back, and the micro cracks will be bridged. then it will warm up again and the joints will open up, that was an old Xbox trick too
I put the ecu in the oven for 8 mins at 445°f and it didnt fix anything. I'm just going to have to spend $300+ on a new ecu that could potentially be fucked as well.
did you strip it down to the main board ? Its a shame you don't have anyone local who can simply lend you an ECU for 5minutes that would save so much guess work ! good luck with it man .
